cranks but wont start

[71-longbed]

Up until today i was having a intermediate starting problems .. it would start then imediently die ... like 1/2 second after i let go of the key ....

now today it cranks but wont start

ive:

checked and changed fuel filter
replaced ignition switch
cap and rotor are new
check , tightened and cleaned grounds
Ran a new wire from solenoid to + on coil (old was cracked and super brittle)



what do you suggestion next

[cdowns]

set the dwell on the points and clean and gap the sparkplugs

[68gmsee]

...checked and changed fuel filter
replaced ignition switch
cap and rotor are new
check , tightened and cleaned grounds
Ran a new wire from solenoid to + on coil (old was cracked and super brittle)

-----------------

If you have points check that first as cdowns mentioned.
Make sure you're getting fuel to the carb....
If you are, check to make sure you're getting spark to the spark plugs.
If you're getting both and still doesn't start, then check timing.
Check compression.

[71-longbed]

my bro swung by for alittle bit .. and watch spark pjug while i cranked it .. and i have no spark

i think its time to remove the pertronix ..... i can't remember how to hook the old points back up though ... bad short term memory

help !!

[71 longbed]

have you checked your coil. to see if it's working.

[hvychve]

well, I got rid of points along time ago, the wire on the starter , is for bypass, it allows full voltage while cranking to the coil, and after its started it than gets power from the resistor wire , if this resistor wire is broke or unhooked , you may want to look there, try bypassing it all together , for the time being for testing purposes, just run you a 12v wire to pos. coil and see if it runs, if it doesnt your problem lies elsewhere, if it than starts and stays running, you know whats up....
if no spark on a point type system , its pretty much cut and dry, gotta have power to coil pos. side with key on or running, the points are only a switch to allow the coil to build and than produce power out the center term. to cap and out to plugs..... good luck , keep us informed...

[WorkinLonghorn]

Ditch that Pertonix I. Total crap;http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a.../t-173315.html
The new ones may be better.

[71-longbed]

you coil reads 1.3 ohms so its good ....

[71-longbed]

is the resistor wire brown or yellow ??

[Bus Ted Knuckle]

Originally Posted by 71-longbed

you coil reads 1.3 ohms so its good ....

There is no way to test a coil to make sure that it is good. A bad coil will more than likely work just fine until it heats up, then the internal insulation melts shorting out the windings, and stopping you dead in your tracks like somebody turned off the key. It usually takes about 30 minutes of running to make that happen. then after the coil cools down it'll restart and run fine for another 30 mins. I do not think that your problem is your coil.

After it dies does it start back up? Sounds like something is loose or bad in the ignition cuircut. Could be a loose wire to the coil, from the ignition switch, or could be a bad ignition switch.

Edit:

I just read the part about the petronix

I would definetly toss that garbage, and put in a set of points...that would be my first attempt to fix the prob.

[71-longbed]

ignition switch was already changed out this morning ... all connection are tight ....

had the battery tested ... 12.5v 300 amps .....

[DREAMS OF A 67]

do you have 12 volts on the + side of the coil?

[71-longbed]

ill find out later .. its pouring down rain right now

[71-longbed]

new battery didnt help ...

with the key one i DONT have 12v while reading between + coil and ground


what should i check next ??

[71-longbed]

i have spark now .... the engine sound like it wants to start ..... also when i let go of the key .. the starter runs on for a second or 2... kinda winding down sorta .... any thoughts

[hvychve]

maybe its flooded now. quit pumping it , or pull a plug and look at it, wet or not?
I have changed many coils for breaking down cold too, you need a higher demand of spark to light a cold mix, more likely fail hot though. changed many coils on chryslers for weak spark or no start on cold start, I know this is no chrysler , but just a word of thought.......

[71-longbed]

i changed the plugs and it fired up.... sweet relief

now to drink some beer

[DREAMS OF A 67]

GREAT, I'M GLAD IT FIRED UP!!

[71-longbed]

i am too .. starts really nice and quick now ... pertronix blows

who makes the best electronic conversion ??? mallory, crane, accel ??

[DREAMS OF A 67]

I Would Go With Factory Conversion.

[GruntyPants]

You can usually find an HEI for a good deal. They are mostly bullet proof, so I just carry an extra module like I used to with points. I now make it my first upgrade on any vehicle I get or work on. The only thing you need to worry about is getting a full 12v to the HEI and not the 7~8 volt ballast resistor lead used on the points. For me it just replaces another consumable (points, condenser) from the equation.

Shawn