Suspension Swap ??'s

[bobbo]

This has probably been covered before...I have a friend that has bought a 70 something Chevy Van, will the front suspension swap to my 69 GMC to convert to disc brakes? Also, will the rear end work? My 69 is a coil spring rear and the van is a leaf spring rear. Can the axles be swapped to convert the rear to five lug?

[shifty]

These two threads might help you to some degree:

Talking about crossmembers and control arms:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=281308

Talking about rear ends and axle swapsa:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=281312

[shifty]

PS - if you want disc brakes, just go get some 71-72 balljoints, put them in your current arms, and some get 71-72 spindles from a junkyard.

Then go to your local parts shop and spend a few bucks on new 71-72 outer tie rods, $40 on two reman'fd calipers, $40-50 on two rotors, a few bucks on brake pads, $20 on the inner/outer bearings and seals. Near-instant disc breaks.

The big concern for you here is not the crossmember or the control arms. If you stick with the truck suspensions, you can put any balljoint from 67-87 in your control arms. The thing is, you NEED to use the same spindle as the year of balljoints, and you'll need to use the same outer tie rod as the year of balljoints.

ECE sells a tie rod adapter for a couple bucks that will let you attach a 71+ outer tie rod
to a 67-70 inner tie rod, btw. I think CPP might have the same.

You'll need to change your proportioning valve as well.

All in all, expect to spend about $300, I guess. But you get the peace of mind of brand new brakes

I know this isn't what you're asking, but I'm sharing anyway. This is what I'm doing on my truck, only I'm using '77 parts.

[bobbo]

Thanks for the help! And just to make sure I am understanding the posts right for the rear-end, I can keep my 69 rear end and just swap the axles with the newer/longer axles as long as I use the larger drums that would fit the truck the axles came off as well as swapping the shoes to match? Do the wheel cylinders need to be swapped or will the 69 ones fit the newer shoes?

Thanks again for your help and I am going to go with your ideas on front end conversion since I can get all the parts at cost through work and I am really wanting some drop spindles.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by bobbo

I can keep my 69 rear end and just swap the axles with the newer/longer axles as long as I use the larger drums that would fit the truck the axles came off as well as swapping the shoes to match? Do the wheel cylinders need to be swapped or will the 69 ones fit the newer shoes?

This will only work if the axles you are using are 3/4" longer than your current axles and the machined portion at the outer edge of the axles is long enough to provide a good seal. If they taper down too soon, you will have a hellacious leak. You will then be able to use the 2.75" drums with your current 2" brakes. Wheel cylinders should be the same with the possible exception of the angle that the line enters the cylinder. I just re-bent my lines a little...

[shifty]

Originally Posted by bobbo

Thanks for the help! And just to make sure I am understanding the posts right for the rear-end, I can keep my 69 rear end and just swap the axles with the newer/longer axles as long as I use the larger drums that would fit the truck the axles came off as well as swapping the shoes to match? Do the wheel cylinders need to be swapped or will the 69 ones fit the newer shoes?

Well, I'll tell you what: I have a pair of 5-lug axles in nice shape in my garage that are a little over a half an inch too long from the '77 front and rear I bought at an insanely low price.

With that in mind, I HAVE some 5-lug axles, but they are too long to work with my current perfectly-fine drum brakes.

So....I might be an idiot, but I just gave ECE ~$275 for a pair of correct-length 5-lug axles and I'm just going to re-use my entire drum setup in the back which is working and in good shape, and the only part I need to buy is the new 5-lug "dish" (drum) part. Should be a bolt-in affair.

Now, I dunno about you. If you're the kind of person who likes to go to the junkyard and buy used brake setups, and you want to disassemble the guts of a couple of sets of 71+ or 73+ drums, take the backing plates, try to mish-mash some crap together and make the drums work with axles that are too long, that's up to you.

I personally feel that my brakes and steering are the two of the most important parts of my truck, and this is not a place I want to putz around and piece some used crap together. I welcome anyone else to do so. I just don't think my life is personally worth saving $275.

Is that a drastic way to look at it? Maybe. But that's just me. I also want to go the easy route, and as we all know, spending a few more bucks is the difference between "used, but it works...sorta...most of the time, but took several weeks to figure out and rig up" and "yeah, it took 30 minutes. It was a direct bolt-in, works like stock, and should last a lifetime".

Originally Posted by bobbo

Thanks again for your help and I am going to go with your ideas on front end conversion since I can get all the parts at cost through work and I am really wanting some drop spindles.

I bought the ECE 2.5" drop spindles. They have two options: ones for 1" rotors and ones for 1.25" (heavy duty) rotors. If you're buying all new, get the ones for 1.25" rotors and get the beefier rotors. Just make sure you get the same year spindles as your balljoints. And don't forget - your OUTER tie rod end is supposedly supposed to be the same year as your spindles+balljoints. This may require a new tie rod sleeve that will adapt your '69 inner tie rod to the newer outer tie rod. It's only a few bucks, ECE sells em.

[bobbo]

Thanks again, Shifty. I totally agree on not using used brake parts. Brakes are something I don't want to have any problems with. I really appreciate all your help and input.