Grant wheel problem question? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Project1970 · 10-26-2002, 04:00 AM

I just thought of this while responding to another post...

A question. Which kit did you use to install your wheel? Did you use the standard kit or the billet kit? I used the billet and had no problems...I also love the look of it, too.

crazy longhorn · 10-26-2002, 06:48 AM

I have run several grant wheels, & any problems I have had with the horn were not due to the installation kit, but the old hardware on the truck! the sig cancellor has a plate on the bottom, a spring,& top pin for the stock horn. The problems are in disturbing these old pcs that are tarnished.....when they go back together, they dont always make contact. I have a 714 sig series(flat dish woody, with anodized spokes). I used a standard inst kit, but also picked up a 1" billet sleeve to replace the 2" sleeve that came with the wheel. installation involves pulling the top contact pin from the sig cancellor,& installing a wire to run to the back of the grant horn button. what i found was that if I carefully removed the brass ring on the bottom of the cancellor & cleaned it & the ends of the spring before installing the new wire, it pretty much eliminated any problems. One other problem I have seen,has been a pinched wire(done this myself!). I hope that will shed a little light on the issues on the grant wheel "headaches" that some of the guys have experienced. good luck all......crazy AL

**Palf70Step** · 10-26-2002, 09:11 AM

Horn works always or not at all. Haven't gone back to see if maybe I did an ooppsie, but don't remember ever having this type problem years ago when I did the swaps. Like the wheel itself though.

Project1970 · 10-26-2002, 09:32 AM

If it's working always, you've got the contact grounded when it shouldn't be. Probably some issues with the wire and the brush assembly. It can't touch any metal other than the switch...I had to bend the contact on the switch out some to get mine to stop that.

popeye72 · 10-26-2002, 09:47 AM

Standard kit no problems here!! Had to play with the horn wire but thats it.

yellowgmc · 10-26-2002, 10:40 AM

standard kit, no problems. looks great. hope next summer i can actually drive with it!

Hooter · 10-26-2002, 10:04 PM

the only problem i had is when the horn button popped off and hit me in the face

70c10 · 10-28-2002, 09:02 AM

I used the standard kit with my Challenger 440 wheel. My horn connection kills the battery. It's probably my wiring. I could never figure this out. Is the little brass plunger in the upper right hand side of this pic supposed to remain in place?

crazy longhorn · 10-28-2002, 09:13 AM

Yes, that pc stays in place. There is a brass ring on the back of the sig cancellor that rides on the pin you have a pic of . It wouldnt hurt to clean the pin & ring to make sure you have a good contact. the pin that I refered to for removal is the 1 that sticks up through the stock wheel(in the top of the sig cancellor cam). Good luck.....crazy AL

**JIMs70GMC** · 10-28-2002, 12:39 PM

I had a problem with mine and here's what was wrong: The Grant install kit came with an adapter that the cancelling cam slips into prior to being installed on the column. On the cancelling cam are tabs that hold the copper ring to the cam. These taps would occasional touch the adapter and short causing the horn to blow. They would touch usually in a turn or if the steering wheel was buped. I found that they needed to be bent flatter, did that and have had no problems since.

70c10 · 10-28-2002, 01:00 PM

I'm going to check mine again and see what's up.

View Poll Results: Which Grant kit, and problems?
Standard kit, problems	5	35.71%
Standard kit, no problems	7	50.00%
Billet kit, problems	1	7.14%
Billet kit, no problems	1	7.14%
Voters: 14. You may not vote on this poll

10-26-2002, 04:00 AM	#1
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	Grant wheel problem question? I just thought of this while responding to another post... A question. Which kit did you use to install your wheel? Did you use the standard kit or the billet kit? I used the billet and had no problems...I also love the look of it, too. __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

10-26-2002, 09:11 AM	#3
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 46,923	Horn works always or not at all. Haven't gone back to see if maybe I did an ooppsie, but don't remember ever having this type problem years ago when I did the swaps. Like the wheel itself though. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

10-26-2002, 09:32 AM	#4
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	If it's working always, you've got the contact grounded when it shouldn't be. Probably some issues with the wire and the brush assembly. It can't touch any metal other than the switch...I had to bend the contact on the switch out some to get mine to stop that. __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

10-26-2002, 09:47 AM	#5
popeye72 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: chesapeake, va Posts: 172	Standard kit no problems here!! Had to play with the horn wire but thats it. __________________ 72 Custom, 400SB,T400,PS,PB,AC Chesapeake, VA

10-26-2002, 06:48 AM	#2
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	I have run several grant wheels, & any problems I have had with the horn were not due to the installation kit, but the old hardware on the truck! the sig cancellor has a plate on the bottom, a spring,& top pin for the stock horn. The problems are in disturbing these old pcs that are tarnished.....when they go back together, they dont always make contact. I have a 714 sig series(flat dish woody, with anodized spokes). I used a standard inst kit, but also picked up a 1" billet sleeve to replace the 2" sleeve that came with the wheel. installation involves pulling the top contact pin from the sig cancellor,& installing a wire to run to the back of the grant horn button. what i found was that if I carefully removed the brass ring on the bottom of the cancellor & cleaned it & the ends of the spring before installing the new wire, it pretty much eliminated any problems. One other problem I have seen,has been a pinched wire(done this myself!). I hope that will shed a little light on the issues on the grant wheel "headaches" that some of the guys have experienced. good luck all......crazy AL

10-26-2002, 10:40 AM	#6
yellowgmc Getting cabin fever?!?!?! Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: chisholm, mn Posts: 1,679	standard kit, no problems. looks great. hope next summer i can actually drive with it! __________________ Member of the Discs Up Front Club 1972 GMC 1500 1994 F-150 XL 4x4 Tact is for people not whitty enough to be sarcastic

10-26-2002, 10:04 PM	#7
Hooter My other Love Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Castlegar B.C. Canada Posts: 4,085	the only problem i had is when the horn button popped off and hit me in the face __________________ Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com First generation Monte Carlo club pictures of my life

10-28-2002, 09:02 AM	#8
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,857	I used the standard kit with my Challenger 440 wheel. My horn connection kills the battery. It's probably my wiring. I could never figure this out. Is the little brass plunger in the upper right hand side of this pic supposed to remain in place? Attached Images __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

10-28-2002, 09:13 AM	#9
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	Yes, that pc stays in place. There is a brass ring on the back of the sig cancellor that rides on the pin you have a pic of . It wouldnt hurt to clean the pin & ring to make sure you have a good contact. the pin that I refered to for removal is the 1 that sticks up through the stock wheel(in the top of the sig cancellor cam). Good luck.....crazy AL

10-28-2002, 12:39 PM	#10
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	A problem I had..... I had a problem with mine and here's what was wrong: The Grant install kit came with an adapter that the cancelling cam slips into prior to being installed on the column. On the cancelling cam are tabs that hold the copper ring to the cam. These taps would occasional touch the adapter and short causing the horn to blow. They would touch usually in a turn or if the steering wheel was buped. I found that they needed to be bent flatter, did that and have had no problems since. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

10-28-2002, 01:00 PM	#11
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,857	I'm going to check mine again and see what's up. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads



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