POR 15 rust preventative question

[The Big Green]

I heard about this stuff from a very good body man. He has been in business for like 50 years and heard this stuff would help me on my 49. My uncle worked for him when he was younger until he started he own shop. He said your suppose to sand to the metal and into the rust enough to bring out a semi-shiney rust...lol, and then put this stuff on and it will turn to sandable primer. I have heard both sides from people, that it works, that it sucks, and even that it really works but doesn't get deep but just converts the top layer of rust. This guy said that its offered in well known magizines and that there was a show and swap meet around here that puts it on rust to prove that it works. I know that rust is a cancer and if you don't get every bit, it will keeps going and rusting, but cancers can be cured and this rust cancer could be. A chemicel reaction can very well possibly be cured too. Anyone know anything about this stuff? POR-15. It would be so much easier than grinding it all out.




Sorry...lol...I just saw the paint and body forum. Ready for removal...lol

[msgross]

well, i haven't heard about it turning to primer but do know that its popular.... What is the final quality that you want?

I used this stuff... www.nomorerust.com they have a sealer and then a topcoat (like POR15). You would think my frame is powder coated and I painted it on with a foam brush.... it seals out all oxygen so a little rust won't grow... You still need to prep any surface that you plan on covering... A wire wheel and grinder will work but it all needs "roughed up" a little to stick...

check out my build thread for pics...

[Fred T]

POR-15 has it's good points and bad points. The biggest issue is following the instructions to the letter. Otherwise, it won't stick. It does not convert rust, but seals do moisture cannot get to the rust. It dries using moisture, not oxygen, like most paints. So there are no air holes that allow water under the coating.

For prep, you remove the loose rust. A scraper works best, do not use a wire wheel. The wire wheel actually polished the metal surface, which you don't want (this step was removed from their instructions at one time).

Follow this with sanding to rough up the surface. Clean with their cleaner, and apply their metal prep, which helps etch the surface. Then apply 2 coats of the POR-15.

What I don't like. You can't spray it without a fresh-air breathing apparatus, it will destroy your lungs. It is tough to brush on smooth, I always end up with brush marks and high/low spots. It is not UV compatible, sunlight will discolor it. So if it's exposed, it must be topcoated.

I have since switched to Rust Bullet, application is a lot easier. Some swear by Zero Rust, I have not tried it.

[53lochevy]

Why waste time in sanding down the metal then applying this chemical on the metal then sand that down. Spend the money and have it media blasted period is the best results and you wont have to worry about rust coming back or maybe a problem in painting due to the chemical thats on the metal now. Once back from blasting wire wheel it and shoot epoxy on it and done ready for body filler and sandable primer so if you want every nock and crannie clean and a really nice clean body panels do be cheap spend the money.

[The Big Green]

I'm wanting to try whatever helps and makes a 60 year old job easier. I may just start sanding with a 36 grit and see what happens to the rust. I have never dealt with alot of rust so I don't really know but I do know that the rust underneath the roof will start rusting there. I heard bad things about sandblasting but it should get rid of just about all the rust even between, but it pits up the metal. I didn't really want to cover up rust because it still comes from both sides, what may be to best way to kill rust? and not cover up what keeps coming.

[53lochevy]

They used a coal pellet on mine when I had it blasted. It etched it and doesnt ping the metal after two or so uses the pellet will turn to powder. As far as the rust it will let you know where you problem areas are but they are all cleaned out of rust and ready for repair. Either way rust out areas are gonna have to be replaced I spent alittle more for my truck when I bought it 3k but it wasnt a rust bucket like most 4 little pin holes in the cab rear corners alittle tack weld and was done rest of truck was rust free except for minor surface rust. So for me it was a no brainer I wanted to start with the cleanest surface I could get and blastin was it I couldnt be happier with the way it came back and the epoxy primer when on nice and smooth with very little prep work in the panels in getting them epoxied. So you can spend hours grinding and sanding and spreading chemicals on your panels or spend the money, mine was 650 for it all and was worth every penny spent not to mention the time it saved me in the shop trying to do it.

[msgross]

I blasted mine with coal sand and the local guy wanted $250, should have let him do it for that money.... If you are stripping most of the items find a blaster in the area, then all paints will stick....

[55dude]

por-15 has saved a few "battery boxes for me in the past when i could not find a good one. zero rust works great and comes in colors. you can buy it in gallons to spray can. from what i was told it was developed for the military.

[Smokejohnson]

Originally Posted by 53lochevy

Why waste time in sanding down the metal then applying this chemical on the metal then sand that down. Spend the money and have it media blasted period is the best results and you wont have to worry about rust coming back or maybe a problem in painting due to the chemical thats on the metal now. Once back from blasting wire wheel it and shoot epoxy on it and done ready for body filler and sandable primer so if you want every nock and crannie clean and a really nice clean body panels do be cheap spend the money.

That's fine If u have somebody that does blasting in your area but some like me don't. I would love to pay to have it blasted.

[The Big Green]

There's a few places that sandblast but none that use coal pellets. I I can track one down within a reasonable driving distance I'll get a price and have it done. You guys have a very good point and I would really rather spend money and have it blasted. I got this truck for free as a little project for me and my wife but I'm sure even when it gets blasted there will be plenty of hours into it. There's a few cities around here that are about 3 hours away that should be able to do it for me, and Mena Arkansas may also, hope so because its about 45mins tops. Thanks again, one more question, what's to much to pay to have everything blasted? Just every body part, not the frame or anything.

[msgross]

I paid $225 for my crossmembers, rad support, axles, leaf springs (apart), a box of other little parts.... he said he would have done the frame for $150-200 more. If you get a WRITTEN quote for under $500 then it would be a good deal for that many parts. It takes a few hours of labor to blast all the nooks and cranny's.

It doesn't really matter what they blast the frame and steel parts with (sand, coal etc..) It can handle the pressure but the body panels can't. I would look at an Industrial trailer repair type of place. That's who did mine... Body panels need special care since the heat will warp them...

It sounds pricey but if you want to really make it new then blasting is amazing. Just be ready to coat it within 24-48 hours... Maybe even powder coat too... I will never try to blast myself anymore, messy, pricey, and a real PITA!

[CAL 58 GMC]

You can't beat powder coating. I paid $400 dollars to do my frame. It's by far the best way to go for a price that not really that bad.

[53lochevy]

Get u a plan in mind and set u a budget for ur truck. Mine is on a three year plan with about 16k going in it, its worth the time and the money look at cal stuff, and some others, just dont go cheap just to get it running and driveable just to have to tear it down later and do the things u really want, patience will pay off on your project and getting all the pieces u want now. In the long run you dont want to tear your truck completely down again, I like doing things right the first time around, it may take alittle longer to get it together but thats whats separate projects like cal's and that kid with the gmc, and very few others you think they took the cheap way I think not. If you want a truck that will stop people in there tracks you gotta spend the money bottom line.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Originally Posted by 53lochevy

Get u a plan in mind and set u a budget for ur truck. Mine is on a three year plan with about 16k going in it, its worth the time and the money look at cal stuff, and some others, just dont go cheap just to get it running and driveable just to have to tear it down later and do the things u really want, patience will pay off on your project and getting all the pieces u want now. In the long run you dont want to tear your truck completely down again, I like doing things right the first time around, it may take alittle longer to get it together but thats whats separate projects like cal's and that kid with the gmc, and very few others you think they took the cheap way I think not. If you want a truck that will stop people in there tracks you gotta spend the money bottom line.

Very well said 53lochevy! from the day I bought my truck it took well over 3 years until i was able to drive it done the road. Take your time, do it right the first time and save your money.

P.S. Thanks for the complements!

[Ozona]

POR-15 works great if you follow the instructions. It's extremely tough..I'd say it's easier to get powdercoat off than properly applied POR-15. You can literally beat it with a hammer and it won't flake.

[The Big Green]

I plan on this truck being a 4 year plan, but as of right now my wifes going thru college and I'm leaving to Camden, Arkansas in about 2 months and will be gone about 4 months. I get done at around 5pm on Friday and have to be back between 5 and 7pm Sunday and its about a 4 hour trip. I plan on it being done in 4 years, drean kinda but for it to be done right I can wait. I can't start to say a money limit now and Firefighters don't get paid a whole lot, but it will make it alot easier when she gets paid also. Right now I want to spend the money for a clean frame and I got quoted around $600ish for the frame, crossmembers, and rearend blasted and powdercoated. Its not bad and it stays cleaner than any new car. My 2007 Jeep JK is probably rusting already...lol. I'm trying to track down a place that will blast the entire body, but I'm not having any luck so far. I can only do the body and frame in the next 6 months, kinda sucks but I can wait. I'll keep checking back in here and can let everyone know more later. Thanks for all your help guys, preciate it. Love all your trucks and I hope mine can look as nice, with time it will. Oh, and 53olchevy, how long have you been on yours so far? I bet its gonna look saaweeet.

[Fred T]

I wouldn't get the frame powdercoated right away. It's best if you have all the fab work done on the frame before coating. That means no drilling or grinding after the coating is done. Powder coating is the best route to go for a frame, just be sure you have all of your ducks in a row when you do it.

[53lochevy]

I've had the truck for 2 1/2 years torn down and the parts up in the attic and cab in the garage. Started around thanksgiving 2007, since then I have almost 5k in it the TCI air-bagged front end should be getting here any day going on three and half weeks since I placed the order with them and JR at TCI was saying all they were waiting on was the power rack to come in for it to be shipped out. The front end will be the last major piece this year to be spent on the truck, the rest of the year will get the body work done and in 2k primer. Next year will come the new 9-inch with 13inch rotors and all the cab parts windows, seals, dash, wiring, ect, and the third year the ls1 and transmission, then off to the interior shop.

[The Big Green]

I see your point on the frame, but I'm not changing anything but the rearend to D-shaft and doing away with the internal axle crap. You are very right on having it powdercoated because who knows I may decide to do a-arms later on down the road. I will probably paint black insted and that way if I do decide to change things up later on I can. The body will be my first thing to do and get in primer, then the frame, brakes and brake lines, engine and tranny, then like the interior and glass and everything. I'm trying to get everything in the order it needs done, and the right parts. Its not very far done at all but I'm trying to get quotes on parts that I know I will need and a look that I want, that way when it comes to it I'll know and wont settle for less because I already know what to save up for.

[Lrall]

i used it today on part of my doors to kill the rust