Intake install question.(aggravated with my 69)

[retselgerg]

just seems like nothing works out for me, my dad rides this truck as his driver for 8 years with a wore out 200 dollar 305, and never had any problems out of it. when he gave it to me i invested (or thought i did anyway) in a new motor, intake, carb, waterpump, new belts and hoses, new heater core, new 4 core radiator, new headers, and all the tune up crap (most of it twice) and i cant even get it to were i can go cruise in it, today i finally got to finish wiring it up, and when i was routing the wires i noticed a few place where the intake was leaking, ( i guess that was my small miss) i have no choice but to take it off, and and get the proper 7201 edelbrock gaskets and reseal it, what should be my method in attacking this, torque pattern, Black silicone usage, etc....

-ya know my dad gave me a good platform, i mean nearly everthing on this truck is new and whats not new is of good quality, but id almost just sell out because i dont think i can ever get that damn rolling wreck dependable or even ridable..........
--G.Lester

[ed2552]

Use silicone on the ends and the corners, the stock gaskets will just fight you and leak. I think you torque it from the centers out in a criss cross pattern, but don't quote me on that

[HoupPhotography]

Definitly, take the rubber front and rear gaskets and throw them out, put about an 1\8 inch of rtv silicone on the ends, LET IT SET A FEW MINUTES so it skins over, then placethe intake back on. I'm pretty sure it's criss cross from the center too, but a book with specifics will help you a ton, good luck man!

[rick0312]

i just installed mine. I used felpro gaskets and high temp rtv silicone around the water ports and a healthy 1/4" bead on the china walls, and a goober in all four corners where the gaskets meets the walls. check out the edelbrock instructions for torque pattern.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ldfor57-86.pdf

[retselgerg]

i heard a few ppl at work talkin about not even using the end gaskets, so would that be safe?

[Longhorn321]

I think you should sell out....cheap! Just kidding, don't give up! With all that new stuff you can't be too far from having a really nice ride. Once you get that last little thing tweaked and it purrs like a kitten, you're gonna be so proud and feel like a million bucks. The thing about these trucks is ....well they're old! You gotta have patience but when you finally figure out what has been buggin you the reward is soooo worth it. Hang in ther buddy and remember, you got lots of help here.

[HoupPhotography]

Originally Posted by retselgerg

i heard a few ppl at work talkin about not even using the end gaskets, so would that be safe?

Yes it is safe, it's really the best insurance for the intake not leaking in that area. Those rubber gaskets move around and can give you a migrane.

[berencam]

What i did was cut the heads of 4 old intake bolts and screwed them into the heads. Then spread my rtv silicone on the end gaskets, and placed them down, then spread silicone on the intake gaskets. Once you spread all over the surface of the gasket i slid them over the studs and pressed them down. I let them sit for about 30 minutes then added my gob at each corner and dropped the intake down onto the studs. You have to cut 2 studs real short and set one side of the intake on first then the other on the side with short studs. Once your done thread a couple bolts, pull the studs and torque down. if you use studs and let the silicone set up a bit you wont have the gaskets moving around.

[chris71]

Originally Posted by retselgerg

i heard a few ppl at work talkin about not even using the end gaskets, so would that be safe?

just to clarify, dont use them but use silcone or rtv instead of the end gaskets. just dont throw out the end gaskets and not use silcone/rtv on the ends

[chev74]

Originally Posted by chris71

just to clarify, dont use them but use silcone or rtv instead of the end gaskets. just dont throw out the end gaskets and not use silcone/rtv on the ends

glad you cleared that up for him. i have installed all my intakes without the endgaskets and just use RTV, but its hard to remember for the new guys what exactly you need to do step-by-step

[Sport/Truck]

Make sure you are using 1.25 long bolts….
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=282379
s/t

[Sammy]

Different torque specs for the eldebrock alum intake manifold too. Don't use the factory manifold torque. Plus 1/4" silicone on front rear w/out rubber gaskets to insure it spreads out. Additionally if U use high speed gasket set pay close attention to water jackets some U have to cut out.

[retselgerg]

i guess i need to locate the torque specs from edelbrock

[Super-Dave]

No one has said anything about locktite. I had some bolts come loose also, and put locktite and never had the problems again. Aluminum and steel heat and cool at different rates so the bolts will come loose. Learned this the hard way. HEHE

[72lb4x4]

Don't feel too bad. With all that you replaced, its hard to get everything perfect even if you didn't make a mistake.

The rubber end bits on the intakes are famous for leaking. You aren't the first.

[Sammy]

Later today I will post the install torque recommended by eldebrock sheet I have in the garage along with the sequence.

[Sammy]

Here this is for the performer intake hope it helps.

[Myself]

Aluminum heats up faster than cast iron. Use the block offs(for the heat passage) provided with the intake gaskets to increase performance a little. It helps keep your intake charge cooler and doesn't affect driveability.

[BarryB]

I don't think it was mentioned, But I'll state this fact. Aluminum and cast iron heat up and cool down differently Aluminum heats ups quicker but gets rid of the heat faster. So what I am trying to say. If you use regular intake gaskets, it doesn't matter how you put in on it's gunna leak sometime.
They make special gaskets for this application. These gaskets are more forgiving when the different heat factors come into play.
I also use the copper gasket spray on mine. That stuff works miracles. I use it on all my torqued gaskets, Heads, Intakes.
Oh and another thing that is commonly missed. You need to put some silicone on the threads of your bolts. because oil has been know to seep threw the threads.

[retselgerg]

I'll pick up some loctite tomorrow on my home from school...BTW i got the old one removed, even without loctite, the bolts all seemed to be tight, i hope it goes on as fast as it came off...........ANyone know to what ft lb to torque it to?

[retselgerg]

i have talked to alot of ppl at work about this, and im hearing alot of the same stuff so that is good,
and just for clarify, No RTV of the gaskets that are between the intake and heads?

[rick0312]

the instructions that came with my edel said to torque to 25ft/lbs. make sure you follow the sequence.

[BarryB]

Originally Posted by retselgerg

i have talked to alot of ppl at work about this, and im hearing alot of the same stuff so that is good,
and just for clarify, No RTV of the gaskets that are between the intake and heads?

25ft lbs sounds right. No your don't use RTV on the intake gaskets.
I don't even use the front and rear rubber gaskets. I just put a good thick line of RTV gasket maker across the front and rear. For the gaskets I use the copper spray. Really helps to adhere to the heads and intake, but that is my preference.
If you use the loctite. use the The blue not red. You might need to remove the bolts someday.