worth?

[joehalford01]

I'm not selling mine, just curious on what you guys would think a particular truck is worth. I don't have any pics but i can give a good description. First: The sellers description over the phone: $700, runs great, needs some "electrical" work and a tune up, otherwise very driveable, long bed, it's a 66.....i asked about rust-he said none , just needs a paint job, and the motor is original.

So i get there......first thing i notice.....fifties short gmc step side bed all rusty as heck......(it is a long bed truck though, there's about a foot of frame sticking out behind the bed), trailer lights on the bumper for rear tailights, full of garbage , serious rust on the rear cab supports and all four corners of the cab toast...., rust eating through the bottom of the doors and overall-a nice rusty patina covering every square inch of the underside, underhood, etc. The spark plug wires were all jacked up and he used masking tape to keep them from arcing......, despite the spark plug wires, the crack head wiring all over under the hood, lack of any kind of air filter or fuel filter, and the cracked rubber hose strung up as fuel line; the thing started on the first crank. It was missing but most likely the spark plug wires i would think. He says it's the original motor and transmission, that seems plausible since there is a one barrel carb on it and the oil fill on the intake manifold. It's a four speed as well. Also no bench seat, a couple old whatever seats from the junkyard. I did notice that the gauges worked which was cool. Then i asked him about the 2004 tags (i didn't mention he said everything was current on the phone ). He said his niece had the title for him and he could get it for me, that he never put it in his name, but the guy he bought it from said it was non-op, yeah right. Anyways, I declined his offer to hold the truck for a deposit and got the vin so i could run it at the dmv. Assuming it checks out and i could register it for less then $500, what you guys think?

He said he would come down to $600, but i'm starting to think $500 or less if the dmv fees are ridiculous. I did like that the gauges worked, and it seemed sound mechanically. As far as the bed is concerned, I have an extra longbed I can put on it, so no biggie there, as well as all the stuff laying around for the ignition. All I've got planned for it is work truck status right now, but i don't know if it would even be worth it with that much rust on the cab. give me your opinions, or laugh at me for the hour of my life i will never get back from the crack heads house .

[kdrodworks316]

not to be rude, but it sounds as if you are trying to talk yourself into it. I would bet there is a cleaner one out there waiting for you, or beat up the crackhead on the price. show up with $400 and maybe settle on $500. I would not pay more than $300 based on your description, but thats me. good luck

[joehalford01]

not rude at all. i have a tendency to talk myself into bad projects. I'm getting better though, I was thinking this was one to walk away from, just wanted to hear it from someone else.

[kdrodworks316]

if you need a futher push to walk away, look at my thread drag and destroy rebuild. I wish I would have walked away

[63sbssbbw]

Like kd said,beat up the crackhead
As for the price,wait a week,show up with100 cash LOL

[Fred T]

Masochism???

[LILRED66]

When pondering a purchase like this, I consider the following:

What is the overall goal...parts truck, daily driver or project?

Is the truck complete?

Does it have a title and matching VIN?

Is it a roller?

Is it rolling on the factory running gear?

Does it have engine, tranny & driveline.

Is it operable?

Is the frame intack and structurally sound?

Which of the following factory/dealer options does it have?

chrome front bumper
chrome rear bumper
anodized aluminum grille
stainless steel windshield wrap
Custom Cab sails
anodized aluminum body molding
body badges
side mirrors
underbed spare tire carrier
license plate bracket
jack assembly
dash gauge cluster
factory in-dash tach
factory AM radio
chrome dash knobs
factory cigarette lighter
factory arm rests
factory sun visors
factory AC
factory automatic tranny/steering column
factory V8
factory power-assist steering
factory power brakes
big back window
swb fleetside

All of these accessories/options increase the overall value of the truck, whether considering it as a donor, daily driver or build and should be considered when deciding whether to purchase a 4-5-6 Chevy truck.

Overall condition of factory sheet metal...check for rust in the front of the inner fenders, bottom of the radiator support, behind the head lights on the grille support, front fender tails, front cab mounts, rear cab mounts, inner rockers, outer rockers, "A" pillar, above windshield, kick panels, floor boards, cab corners, rear wheel arches and frame. All of these areas are prone to rust on the 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks and should be considered when pondering the purchase of one of these trucks. Although there are patch panels and good, used replacement parts available, all of this will increase the cost on top of the initial investment in purchasing the truck.

Overall condition of mechanicals...does it start, run, drive, steer, accelerate, stop and operate in an acceptable manner? If so, great...if not, consider what if will take for a brake job, tune-up, front-end alignment or general maintenance items. What are your mechanical abilities...are you able to fix/repair the trouble area or will you need to take it to a mechanic shop? A unforeseen brake, steering or mechanical failure can lead to big problems, if not detected and corrected.

Overall condition of electrical...will it operate safely, without the possibility of catching fire or damage? Although complete wiring harnesses are available in the aftermarket, they add to the overall investment to get it road-worthy. What are your electrical skills...if you can safely fix/repair electrical systems, this is good, but if not, consider the cost to replace faulty wiring or have it repaired by a local auto shop.

All of these points help determine if the truck is a candidate for a daily driver, parts truck or build project. If the overall condition is poor, but it is well-optioned, I assign a reasonable price to the optional equipment, that can be sold, to determine the overall value. If it is standard-equipped model, but it is in running condition, I consider the cost to get it road-worthy, registered, licensed, insured and tagged and determine if it is a worthy investment.

There are so many things to consider when purchasing a 4-5-6 Chevy Truck and with a rational plan, the decision is made with your brain, not your heart. I have a shop full of parts and several donor trucks, so if I am considering one, my decision is easily made by how much work it will take to get it road-worthy or if I can recoup my initial investment by pulling parts to sell or use for my own projects.

In closing, I would save all 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks, if I could, but I make every effort to rescue the ones that have some upside potential. Good luck with your decision and having a plan for the truck, going in, is always a good basis for making a decision on whether to purchase one or not.

[PA66C20]

Originally Posted by kdrodworks316

not to be rude, but it sounds as if you are trying to talk yourself into it. I would bet there is a cleaner one out there waiting for you, or beat up the crackhead on the price. show up with $400 and maybe settle on $500. I would not pay more than $300 based on your description, but thats me. good luck

I second this motion. I paid $400 for the same rust, but it had a solid engine and solid tranny. I'm using it as a parts truck. Personally I think it's one to walk away from. For $750 or maybe less? you can find one with less rust and is in good shape. I paid $750 for my now current daily driver and found the engine was seized and a headache of other things, but it's in a lot better condition. (stole the engine and tranny from my parts one )

[kdrodworks316]

Tony brings up alot of good points, if it has a factory tach and a/c, grab it up!

[dwcsr]

If you get it for $500 its worth $1500 - $2000 parted. Possible more

If

The fenders are reasonable.
Door are reasonable.
The original driveline is there or available.
Interior parts are there.
It runs.
Radiator is good and not all snotted up with JB weld.
It has a vin plate and a title.

I would pay $500 sight un-seen from your discription. But for my purpose its a parts truck.

[joehalford01]

thanks for all the replies guys, i'm going to call the dmv today. I might pick it up if he's willing to lower the price. abuse it for a while and then pull the drivetrain out for another project. we'll see.