Shock relocaters?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Brad · 11-03-2002, 12:33 AM

Those of you with lowered trucks and shock relocators, do they actually work? Do you notice a ride improvement with them? I have a 4" drop and I'm always bottoming out on the bumpers. I can't afford a C-notch yet and hope that this might help alot.

crazy longhorn · 11-03-2002, 01:24 AM

Relocating the shocks will help the ride, but Im not sure it will help with bottoming. you might try trimming the bumpstops to about 1/2 the thickness....might grab you another 1" clearance. i dont run bumpstops on the rear of the longhorn. I have a 5" drop , with 3" clearance tween the frame & axle& dont bottom. The springs are pretty firm tho......3/4 ton leaf with a couple leafs removed. i fabbed a set of shock relocators , both front & rear to run a set of Monroe Gas LTs. It did help with the ride. Good luck....crazy AL

Brad · 11-03-2002, 03:45 AM

Yeah, I already cut the bumpstops just enough so the axle doesn't hit the frame. I've also got coils. Sent you a PM

crazy longhorn · 11-03-2002, 12:42 PM

I havent looked at a coil frame for some time now, but memory has the bumpstops outside the frame rails? If you take the stops & brackets completely off...... will you gain any clearance?

**MikeB** · 11-03-2002, 01:16 PM

I got mine from Early Classics back in 1998. Before I installed them, the back of my truck bounced around a lot. Every dip or rise in the road made it oscillate a couple times before it settled down, even with new KYB gas shocks. I have 3" drop springs, but even with stock springs, IMO, the rear shocks were at too much of an angle to do much good. When the axle moved 6", the shocks would move only 2", so they never had a chance to work.

The brackets stand the shocks up closer to vertical, which lets them travel more. This makes a TREMENDOUS difference in their ability to dampen oscillations. Along with a rear stabilzer bar, these brackets are among the best enhancments you can make to your truck's ride and handling.

By the way, good quality 4" lowered TRUCK springs should not cause your suspension to bottom out. Properly designed lowered springs are stiffer to compensate for less travel. Cheapo springs are simply shorter with the same resistance rate. I doubt the shock relocation brackets will help compensate for springs that are too soft.

Brad · 11-04-2002, 03:27 PM

Crazy longhorn-I'm at the lowest I can be without a C-notch.

MikeB-Thanks, it sounds like I just need to invest in a pair then. I'm having problems with the $60 price though. Did you have to use shorter shocks, or can I get by with regular length until they go belly up? I thought my springs were 4" but maybe they're 6". They're Eibach springs fwiw.

**MikeB** · 11-05-2002, 11:52 AM

I can't remember whether my rear shocks are stock height. I got them from Early Classics along with the rear springs. With a 6" rear drop, you need really stiff springs or a notch to not bottom. I'm only at 3".

Brad · 11-06-2002, 06:02 AM

Well, as I was putting in my new rearend I noticed that my driver side shock is bad and the other one is going. I just bought these about 2 years ago from ECE. How long do shocks last?

dregs454 · 11-06-2002, 08:54 PM

Question: Would buying shorter shocks solve the problem of poor shock angles with a drop?

(for example, 5 inch rear drop coils, and 5 inch shorter springs)

Brad · 11-07-2002, 12:25 AM

I don't think it would since you'll still have too much angle.

Alexis · 11-07-2002, 03:47 AM

Eibach doesnt make 6 inch lowering springs. i think

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
I'm at the lowest I can be without a C-notch.

wanna bet

Slammed67 · 11-11-2002, 12:20 AM

Brad,

By chance are your shocks bottoming out? You said they were going bad and they are only 2 years old?

Brad · 11-11-2002, 05:32 AM

nope-I unbolted the plate as I was installing the new rearend and I could push and pull the shock with no resistance. Yeah, the driver side one is dead alright. The passenger side is still good. I'm going to double check on the time frame though. They're the silver KYB too. I've gotta bite the bullet and get lowered shocks now.

**swervin ervin** · 11-16-2002, 03:09 PM

I'm not sure on 67-72's, but the shock extenders work great on my 85. I was able to use stock length Edelbrock IAS's on a 5" drop.

powder · 11-18-2002, 01:37 PM

THIS OLD MAN SHOWED ME A TRICK YOU USE 70-79 CHEVY VAN SHOCKS THE DO THE SAME THING DROP SHOCKS DO FOR ABOUT 50.00 LESS

Brad · 11-18-2002, 07:33 PM

Cool! For awhile now I've been thinking that there was a cheaper solution. I looked through a book once, but couldn't find the right ends with a shorter length. I'm going to run right out and replace my shocks now! THANKS!

I went and checked on 79 shocks and they're only about an inch shorter. I need more than this. I think I'll go with drop shocks.

11-03-2002, 12:33 AM	#1
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	Shock relocaters?? Those of you with lowered trucks and shock relocators, do they actually work? Do you notice a ride improvement with them? I have a 4" drop and I'm always bottoming out on the bumpers. I can't afford a C-notch yet and hope that this might help alot. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

11-03-2002, 03:45 AM	#3
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	Yeah, I already cut the bumpstops just enough so the axle doesn't hit the frame. I've also got coils. Sent you a PM __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

11-03-2002, 01:16 PM	#5
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,663	I got mine from Early Classics back in 1998. Before I installed them, the back of my truck bounced around a lot. Every dip or rise in the road made it oscillate a couple times before it settled down, even with new KYB gas shocks. I have 3" drop springs, but even with stock springs, IMO, the rear shocks were at too much of an angle to do much good. When the axle moved 6", the shocks would move only 2", so they never had a chance to work. The brackets stand the shocks up closer to vertical, which lets them travel more. This makes a TREMENDOUS difference in their ability to dampen oscillations. Along with a rear stabilzer bar, these brackets are among the best enhancments you can make to your truck's ride and handling. By the way, good quality 4" lowered TRUCK springs should not cause your suspension to bottom out. Properly designed lowered springs are stiffer to compensate for less travel. Cheapo springs are simply shorter with the same resistance rate. I doubt the shock relocation brackets will help compensate for springs that are too soft. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 11-03-2002 at 10:01 PM.

11-04-2002, 03:27 PM	#6
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	Crazy longhorn-I'm at the lowest I can be without a C-notch. MikeB-Thanks, it sounds like I just need to invest in a pair then. I'm having problems with the $60 price though. Did you have to use shorter shocks, or can I get by with regular length until they go belly up? I thought my springs were 4" but maybe they're 6". They're Eibach springs fwiw. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... Last edited by Brad; 11-04-2002 at 03:30 PM.

11-05-2002, 11:52 AM	#7
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,663	I can't remember whether my rear shocks are stock height. I got them from Early Classics along with the rear springs. With a 6" rear drop, you need really stiff springs or a notch to not bottom. I'm only at 3". __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

11-03-2002, 01:24 AM	#2
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	Relocating the shocks will help the ride, but Im not sure it will help with bottoming. you might try trimming the bumpstops to about 1/2 the thickness....might grab you another 1" clearance. i dont run bumpstops on the rear of the longhorn. I have a 5" drop , with 3" clearance tween the frame & axle& dont bottom. The springs are pretty firm tho......3/4 ton leaf with a couple leafs removed. i fabbed a set of shock relocators , both front & rear to run a set of Monroe Gas LTs. It did help with the ride. Good luck....crazy AL

11-03-2002, 12:42 PM	#4
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	I havent looked at a coil frame for some time now, but memory has the bumpstops outside the frame rails? If you take the stops & brackets completely off...... will you gain any clearance?

11-06-2002, 06:02 AM	#8
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	Well, as I was putting in my new rearend I noticed that my driver side shock is bad and the other one is going. I just bought these about 2 years ago from ECE. How long do shocks last? __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

11-06-2002, 08:54 PM	#9
dregs454 Killin' Time Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 221	Question: Would buying shorter shocks solve the problem of poor shock angles with a drop? (for example, 5 inch rear drop coils, and 5 inch shorter springs) __________________ NEED CORVETTE 1972 GMC C20 350, SM465, HEI Dynomax headers and 2.5" duals

11-07-2002, 12:25 AM	#10
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	I don't think it would since you'll still have too much angle. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

11-11-2002, 12:20 AM	#12
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Brad, By chance are your shocks bottoming out? You said they were going bad and they are only 2 years old? __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

11-11-2002, 05:32 AM	#13
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	nope-I unbolted the plate as I was installing the new rearend and I could push and pull the shock with no resistance. Yeah, the driver side one is dead alright. The passenger side is still good. I'm going to double check on the time frame though. They're the silver KYB too. I've gotta bite the bullet and get lowered shocks now. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

11-16-2002, 03:09 PM	#14
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	I'm not sure on 67-72's, but the shock extenders work great on my 85. I was able to use stock length Edelbrock IAS's on a 5" drop. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

11-18-2002, 01:37 PM	#15
powder the ring around my finger Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Spring Lake NC Posts: 187	SHOCKS THIS OLD MAN SHOWED ME A TRICK YOU USE 70-79 CHEVY VAN SHOCKS THE DO THE SAME THING DROP SHOCKS DO FOR ABOUT 50.00 LESS

11-18-2002, 07:33 PM	#16
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	Cool! For awhile now I've been thinking that there was a cheaper solution. I looked through a book once, but couldn't find the right ends with a shorter length. I'm going to run right out and replace my shocks now! THANKS! I went and checked on 79 shocks and they're only about an inch shorter. I need more than this. I think I'll go with drop shocks. Last edited by Brad; 11-20-2002 at 02:47 AM.



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