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04-28-2008, 06:51 PM | #1 |
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Location: oregon
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Voltage regulator and alternator questions
I am using the stock alternator external regulator for a 69 engine. The alternator was rebuilt by a local reputable shop. I asked if i needed a new regulator and they said try the original first it might be fine. The system shows charging............the regulator is getting real hot in a part that is on the outside of the regulator box. It looks like a small firecracker about the same length. it is a coil of wire around some type of fiber. I looked inside the regulator and it "appears" fine. The alternator is geting quite warm as well and wants to slip the fan belt....................I have shut it down and will take it all in to the shop. I was wondering if anyone might have any ideas oin this.
The wire harness is stock and in very good shape. Everything seems to work in the system, however front headlights, horns, and turn signals aren't in the truck yet. There is a small ground wire that comes out of the harness at the voltage reg. area and i have that grounded to the core support. there is also a small hookup tab for like a "faston" electrical connector on the "back" side of the regulator (towards the core support).. I don't remember anything being hooked to that before................what is that connection for?? Once again, thanks for all of your help.
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69 K-20 cloned to a 67 with front clip and some other stuff. 383 .040 over Crane roller cam lifters and rockers ,1.6 intake ratio, Open chamber heads, 9.5-1 compression ratio, 2.02 intake valves , Edelbrock performer Air Gap manifold Carter AFB performer 750cfm, MSD ignition, SM465 NP205 4.10 gears: |
04-28-2008, 07:10 PM | #2 |
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Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area.
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Re: Voltage regulator and alternator questions
Holy mackerel, I don't recall the last time I had an alternator rebuilt. I think 25-30 years ago. For these trucks they're cheaper to buy than to rebuild and then you just exchange them if they are bad. But that's my opinion.
It seems like you still have something wrong with the alternator. If it's getting hot and tightening up on you enought to want to slip the belt, I would say the rotor or bearing is causing this. I just can't see where the regulator would cause a bind in your alternator. See if they can find the problem. But, the new regulators and rebuilt auto parts alternators are not very expensive. I'd keep the old regulator if it's working though, just because it's original... |
04-28-2008, 09:27 PM | #3 |
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Re: Voltage regulator and alternator questions
I agree the exchanges are readily available..................it's just kinda cool to walk in and set yours down on the counter and go back and pick it up again..............I did the same with my original "truck" starter as well..............the 4 shoe type.
They realy charge no more than a Schucks exchange................and the best thing is the work is done right here in Medford, Oregon USA!!!!! They stand behind the work as well. I have a feeling it is something simple, possibly the regulator causing an overcharge situation . I am going out now and running a proper heavy ground lead from the frame up to the core support for a more substantial grounding and try that.
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69 K-20 cloned to a 67 with front clip and some other stuff. 383 .040 over Crane roller cam lifters and rockers ,1.6 intake ratio, Open chamber heads, 9.5-1 compression ratio, 2.02 intake valves , Edelbrock performer Air Gap manifold Carter AFB performer 750cfm, MSD ignition, SM465 NP205 4.10 gears: |
04-28-2008, 09:51 PM | #4 |
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Location: peaster,tx
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Re: Voltage regulator and alternator questions
i just put a stock alternater back on my 69 slow charging also so i went and bought a one wire alternater and did away with the regulater and wow what a difference i went to my local napa and bought it and it works great
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04-28-2008, 11:08 PM | #5 |
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Location: Lewisville, Nc
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Re: Voltage regulator and alternator questions
sounds lieka good time for a swap mod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379 mine cost me 40 buxs for a newer sytle alt
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David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube |
04-29-2008, 12:08 AM | #6 |
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Location: oregon
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Re: Voltage regulator and alternator questions
I was headed towards the mew internaly regulated alternator except the shop said that the old original was a lot heavier duty. They say the early style GM externaly regulated alternators are bulletproof compared to the newer style. The early ones have the power trtansistors pressed into the housing and cool better. The only difference between an externaly regulated and an internaly regulated alternator is where the regulator is.simple as that.
All of the reading I have done on the 1 wire set ups are that they are for simplicity of wiring only. The actual practical value does not stand up to the three wire alternators with the sence wire that tells the alternator what to do. One wires only know to put out a straight voltage and don't kick it up when the demands are great from sources down the line... such as stereos and lights. Madelectric.com or something like that has good info on this stuff. I am hauling it all back to the shop...............they are pros and I payed for the rebuild so I am sure it will work out.
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69 K-20 cloned to a 67 with front clip and some other stuff. 383 .040 over Crane roller cam lifters and rockers ,1.6 intake ratio, Open chamber heads, 9.5-1 compression ratio, 2.02 intake valves , Edelbrock performer Air Gap manifold Carter AFB performer 750cfm, MSD ignition, SM465 NP205 4.10 gears: |
04-30-2008, 02:30 AM | #7 |
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Location: peaster,tx
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Re: Voltage regulator and alternator questions
the one i bought is a 60 amp alt
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04-30-2008, 04:54 AM | #8 |
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Location: oregon
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Re: Voltage regulator and alternator questions
I took it in to the guys at A&A and they put it all on the test equipment and all is good.
The guy said the resistors on the outside get real hot and he thinks it is burning off the penetrating oil that I used to get the darn thing of of the truck 4 years ago. The wires are like toaster wire and get red hot but are meant to. It was smoking right there on the test bench in front of us and it was testing perfect. 14.5 volts output. he told me let it burn off and it will be fine. They consider these early alternators bullet proof by the way and well worth hanging on to. They are right in there at 60 AMPS
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69 K-20 cloned to a 67 with front clip and some other stuff. 383 .040 over Crane roller cam lifters and rockers ,1.6 intake ratio, Open chamber heads, 9.5-1 compression ratio, 2.02 intake valves , Edelbrock performer Air Gap manifold Carter AFB performer 750cfm, MSD ignition, SM465 NP205 4.10 gears: |
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