When to patch and when to replace? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

75sierraclassic · 05-05-2008, 05:16 AM

The cab on my 75 is starting to get fairly rusty. The cab corners have big holes, both rockers need to be replaced along with the outside edges of the floor. I noticed that the front cab mounts are looking pretty thin and are on their way out. My problem is, should I start cutting and welding, or should I just junk it and find a rust free cab. When is the point to no return? I'm not sure what to do, I know a lot of you guys have dealt or are dealing with this. Whats your opinion?

**old Rusty C10** · 05-05-2008, 05:22 AM

well its your call but if it can be repaired id say repair it.. the point of n o return IMHO is when you cant get patch panels to make it safe

Rollie396 · 05-05-2008, 05:38 AM

.This is also a good time to be very honest with yourself.You need to look at everything that needs to be done,then ask yourself if you have the desire,ability,temperment (I struggle with that part) and dedication to get it all done to your expectations.
I took the body work on my project to a certain point and decided that I wanted a professional to finish the rest.It was a tough decision to make,but I think (hope) it was the right one.

Pushrod226 · 05-05-2008, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rollie396

.This is a good time to be very honest with yourself.You need to look at everything that needs to be done,then ask yourself if you have the desire,ability,temperment, and dedication to get it all done to your expectations.

I'm in the rusted beyond belief boat myself. I'm in the middle of replacing all those same goodies. Started today after I got done installing a trans crossmember I made. Actually I started last year, the structure that held the front body mounts dissappeared so I replaced it with 2x2 tubing and new mounts. Drove it till a week ago when I wrecked it after 8 years of daily driving. Now I have the garage time to give it new floors, rockers, corners, front clip, and doors. I dig my Ol' truck and don't really want anything else. I figure I'll have it back on the road in a week or 2.

My opinion you ask?? A rust free 30+ year old cab is hard to find.

rfmaster · 05-06-2008, 03:08 AM

Even in California 35 years of exposure to elements gets rust cancer going. In my case I have shell seams where two panels are butted against each other showing signs of cancer. Also, inside door post and roof to door seams are infected. No room, tools, experience and most importantly time to do this work. I'll have to find a resto shop to do this work.

//RF

75sierraclassic · 05-06-2008, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rollie396

.This is also a good time to be very honest with yourself.You need to look at everything that needs to be done,then ask yourself if you have the desire,ability,temperment (I struggle with that part) and dedication to get it all done to your expectations.
I took the body work on my project to a certain point and decided that I wanted a professional to finish the rest.It was a tough decision to make,but I think (hope) it was the right one.

Well I have the desire, but not the skills, temperament, or facilities to do so at the moment. I redid it about 5 years ago and since I didn't know how to weld and had no experience with bodywork or the monster that rust is, I fiberglassed some parts and tried to grind it off. Ass you know this doesn't work.
Now it has all come back and I have nowhere to work on it.
Also, it is my daily driver and I don't want to invest a lot of money in it at the time so that throws out a professional shop. I guess I'm going to have to let it be and hope it doesn't get so bad that it can't be fixed. If only it was out of site out of mind

Thanks for the input guys.

Square84 · 05-07-2008, 07:53 AM

If you need a new cab rust free try here in texas i've got four square chevys not a touch of rust on any of them. salvage yards here are full of 73-87s rust free and fairly cheap, i bought a whole 81 longbed straight body from scrap yard no motor for $150.00 only needed front bed panel but too cheap to pass up.

05-05-2008, 05:16 AM	#1
75sierraclassic Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 186	When to patch and when to replace? The cab on my 75 is starting to get fairly rusty. The cab corners have big holes, both rockers need to be replaced along with the outside edges of the floor. I noticed that the front cab mounts are looking pretty thin and are on their way out. My problem is, should I start cutting and welding, or should I just junk it and find a rust free cab. When is the point to no return? I'm not sure what to do, I know a lot of you guys have dealt or are dealing with this. Whats your opinion?

05-05-2008, 05:22 AM	#2
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	Re: When to patch and when to replace? well its your call but if it can be repaired id say repair it.. the point of n o return IMHO is when you cant get patch panels to make it safe __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

05-05-2008, 05:38 AM	#3
Rollie396 someday it will be done! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lloydminster,AB. Canada Posts: 1,620	Re: When to patch and when to replace? .This is also a good time to be very honest with yourself.You need to look at everything that needs to be done,then ask yourself if you have the desire,ability,temperment (I struggle with that part) and dedication to get it all done to your expectations. I took the body work on my project to a certain point and decided that I wanted a professional to finish the rest.It was a tough decision to make,but I think (hope) it was the right one. __________________ '72 C-10 Proud owner of a million new and used pieces that used to be and will once again be(god willing) a testament to the term "they don't build em like that anymore. '80 LWB 2wd beater '67 GMC long fleet (cab donor) '66 long step (parked till it's turn comes around) '65 short step (parts truck that will donate it's bed and possibly frame to the '66) '06 Grand Prix wife's car (she hardly lets me touch it) my pics

05-06-2008, 03:08 AM	#5
rfmaster Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: OC CA Posts: 1,374	Re: When to patch and when to replace? Even in California 35 years of exposure to elements gets rust cancer going. In my case I have shell seams where two panels are butted against each other showing signs of cancer. Also, inside door post and roof to door seams are infected. No room, tools, experience and most importantly time to do this work. I'll have to find a resto shop to do this work. //RF __________________ "The Beast" 1975 Chevrolet C20 longbed 350/700R4! with 3inch body lift Dual Flowmasters Super 40's! TBI retrofit completed (2007-07-29) New 383CID (+030) 08-304-8 9.5:1CR x36,005 (2012-12-17)

05-07-2008, 07:53 AM	#7
Square84 I don't think these pills work Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: burkburnett,Tx Posts: 626	Re: When to patch and when to replace? If you need a new cab rust free try here in texas i've got four square chevys not a touch of rust on any of them. salvage yards here are full of 73-87s rust free and fairly cheap, i bought a whole 81 longbed straight body from scrap yard no motor for $150.00 only needed front bed panel but too cheap to pass up. __________________ SQUARE84 90 SUBURBAN



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