Dual Tank Valve 86 Chev K-10

[Jimbob91]

Hoping someone has a picture/schematic drawing, or at least a good description of tubing the fuel tank selector valve.

Bopught an 86 K-10 that needed some love...... Both tanks were included in the "needed love" section....
Apparently when they stopped using the left hand tank (big 'ol hole in that one) they bypassed the selector valve. All the hoses were removed from the selector valve, and then the next owner (16 year old) spent lots of time four-wheeling. So...I've got a new selector valve coming, I just want to verify I'll be tubing it up correctly.

Thanks for the help!

Matt

[old Rusty C10]

search for threads by Russell he had alot of problems with his years back although it was an 80 it should be the same

[BLE 'BURBAN]

You've got a total of 6 hoses to hook up to the selector valve.
First off, IF your truck is Fuel infected then you will need to insure that the replacement hoses you use are rated for Fuel Infection and not just for a carbonated engine. If it isn't and your ride is, you'll rupture the lines within a matter of days if not hours.
Although there are 6 hoses, there is only 2 different inside diameters to contend with.... 3/8" for feed to the engine and 5/16" for fuel return to the tanks.
On the inlet side of the valve(coming FROM the tanks) it may be marked as to which tank hooks up where. Once you get the valve and inspect it and it's mounting area, it should be pretty self explanitory.
The only real big PITA are the 2 mounting bolts that drop into the frame from above with little to no room to get to with both your hand and a wrench.( 1/2" ratcheting gearwrench will work wonders here)

[slug]

did this a few weeks ago. you may also want to get some new hose clamps. the new valve will run you around $80.

[Jimbob91]

Thanks for the info.

Before I came to work (I work offshore in the Gulf of Mexico) I got both my gas tanks and new straps. I picked up new hose clamps, fuel hoses, and will probably pick up new fill hoses, too, just because they're hard as a rock.
A friend of mine had a new fuel valve in his garage from a former truck, so that's a cheapie. Yes, it's the correct OEM part number and part. He lives in Houston and is shipping it out today, so it'll beat me home. ( I work 14 days on, 14 days off)
I'd already dropped the left hand tank to get an idea of what I needed.
I figure I'll change the selector valve after I drop the right hand tank. You're right, the two bolts look like a be-otch to get to with the tank in place.
My only concern was plugging the hoses into the correct sides of the valve, as the old valve was completely unplugged by someone in the past. When the lefthand tank developed a leak, they unplugged that tank, and bypassed the valve with the fuel hoses from the righthand tank.
Oh, pressure is not a problem. The original 305 was replaced with a carb'd383.

Hey, one more question. Is there an easy way to check the fuel gauge sending units while they're NOT installed? You know, like a resistance check or something.
I figure, if nothing else, I can plug in the selector valve, with the sending unit out of the tank, make sure I have a good ground on the unit itself and move the float up and down.... With the new selector valve, that should work, but I'd be checking the entire circuit, not just the sending unit. I'd really like to verify sending units before I mount them and have to drop the darn tanks again.

Thanks again!
Matt

[BLE 'BURBAN]

Use an ohm meter to check them out. The range is 0-90 ohms resistance. Full to empty or empty to full I can never remember which though.

[Jimbob91]

Perfect! 0-90 ohms is easy! That's exactly what I was looking for, on the senders. Full to empty or empty to full doesn't matter, as long as it's a semi-smooth transition.... As long as I know the 0-90 thing.

Thanks BLE'BURB!!!

Matt