cutting frame LWB to SWB c-notch ???'s

[original_balzer]

I have seen several done BUT my question is while adding a c-notch is it nessisary to shorten the frame first then c-notch it? Or can you shorten it with the c-notch? Useing a bolt in c-notch intalled at the distance a SWB axle would rest cut it out requiired distance and move the rear in and bolt it on then weld it all together and box it in?

I can find LWB trucks and frames all day long around here but a SWB is HARD to find. So it looks like I will be shortening one.

Another question is whats everybodys favorite air bag set up in the rear? 4 link with panard, cantilever, triangular 4 link? I dont need it to be fast or able to hop just get it up in front of Po Po and to get threw dips ect. Maybe just front and back as well I dont really need or want side to side.

I havent done a full air bag set up I have helped change from 2100lb bags to 2600lb bags on a dually once LOL.

[matthufham]

shorten and then put in the notch

[original_balzer]

I was afraid that would be the correct way....... Ahh well if im gunna cut up a frame may as well do alot of it.

[benwantland]

Seriously, LWB trucks look better. Leave it.

[original_balzer]

long bed step sides just look dumb. I always been a sucker for a step side.

[Frizzle Fry]

There's no reason you can't put a C-notch in before you shorten it. The area where the notch goes does not get cut for shortening. After you install the notch, when you cut the 12" from below the cab, the notch will move forward with everything else. Then just move your rear cab mounts 12" back, chop 8" off the rear of your rails, deal with fuel and brake lines, get a new driveshaft made and you're done; instant shorty (bodywork not included).

[original_balzer]

Right so I searched and came up empty has anyone done a write up on both shrtening the frae and a c-notch?

[smoknbarrels]

well first off you have spell it right, the search function is kinda funny that way!

there is tons of info in FAQ on these topics.

[BlueJeep]

I was just reading the thread about Porter's bolt in notch and 4 link kit for square bodies and was wondering something similar. Why even bother with the factory rear section of the frame rails?? Other than having a couple of bolt holes already there for the bumper and rear bed bolts, what is the point? Seems like you could very easily continue the material you use for the notch out to the end rather than the stock frame. It would be very easy at the same time to set it up for a different tank too....

I realize that for using the stock rear suspension setup, the trailing arm crossmember location is probably a key factor, but is there any reason that couldn't be just slid forward?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

I was just reading the thread about Porter's bolt in notch and 4 link kit for square bodies and was wondering something similar. Why even bother with the factory rear section of the frame rails?? Other than having a couple of bolt holes already there for the bumper and rear bed bolts, what is the point? Seems like you could very easily continue the material you use for the notch out to the end rather than the stock frame. It would be very easy at the same time to set it up for a different tank too....

I realize that for using the stock rear suspension setup, the trailing arm crossmember location is probably a key factor, but is there any reason that couldn't be just slid forward?

Search board member XXL's threads. He did the back half frame like you're describing. The trailing arm c.member is moved forward when cutting a lwb frame down to a shorty.