Installing Intake Manifold ?'s

[dznucks]

i am having to replace my intake (installing a performer eps). one of the reasons i am replacing it is becasue the front gasket blew out because i put RTV on both sides of the rubber gasket.
looking at the instrutions from edelbrock it says to put RTV on both sides.

Can any one provide their experience with the best way to do this and which brand gaskets you used?

thanks

[haysonj]

I always use gasket cinch or copper kote under the rubber and nothing on top and one little dab of black RTV in the corners the only problem I've ever had was when I used the Felpro blue gaskets with a performer manifold.

[steelhorse]

Go to your local parts store and buy a tube of "right stuff"hands down one of the best sealers out there.I am a mechanic and have done over 100 intakes with this and never had a problem.Dont bother with the end gaskets,just loy down a 1/4 inch bead.

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by steelhorse

Go to your local parts store and buy a tube of "right stuff"hands down one of the best sealers out there.I am a mechanic and have done over 100 intakes with this and never had a problem.Dont bother with the end gaskets,just loy down a 1/4 inch bead.

Very good stuff but pricey I use it on my marine engines

[dave2953]

I've never had any luck with those rubber gaskets. Most guys on here don't use them either. Like steelhorse I just lay a fat bead of RTV at the front and the rear and I've had no problems.

[nightmare]

i was having this problem too. a friend of my dad's told me that if i'm going to use the rubber gasket, put the perma-tex down on the block and let it dry to the touch. then put the rubber gasket on there, and put the perma-tex on top of that. let that dry to the touch, then put the intake on. worked like a charm. went through 3 sets of gaskets, I wasn't letting the perma-tex dry. did this on my 400hp camaro, no leaks.

[dznucks]

exactly what i needed to hear. thanks all

when you lay the 1/4 in bead do you let it dry, let it get tacky, or just install with it wet?

[LONGHAIR]

There are generally 2 schools of thought on this, both of which mentioned above. Either works, but I wouldn't use the "glue" on top of the rubber seals. Stick them to the block, put a small dab of RTV in the corners and go. The downward pressure of the intake holds the glued seal in place.
The "RTV only" method benefits from drying too. Apply it to the block as evenly as possible and allow it to skin over at least "firming up". This keeps it from "oozing" out and gluing to both sides.
Allowing for some movement, from thermal expansion differences, seems to help.


"Blowing" these out is an issue though. Even though this is a recognized problem with Chevys...."Blowing" is an indicator of excessive crankcase pressure. Proper ventilation (PCV or otherwise) is necessary too. Older engines with greater blow-by are at greater risk.

[dznucks]

when i originally installed the manifold i put the rtv on both top and bottom of the rubber gasket and installed it wet, didn't know any better. it blew out within a week. the engine was a brand new jasper crate engine when i did when i did this.
so i am pretty sure it didn't do it because of excessive crankcase pressure.
that was 40K miles ago and i am just now getting around to fixing it.

also, i got arp intake bolts. do i need lock washers or just lock tight?

[LONGHAIR]

New engines can have more blow-by too. Until the rings are seated, the pressure leaks past them too, so that is not a given either. Ventilation is very important.

As far as the "lock" issue....You really don't need either. This is not a "moving" part, there is not real vibration issue. Proper torque is plenty, along with a flat washer to reduce galling with the manifold.

[steelhorse]

when using "right stuff" do not let it dry.I put on the intake right after putting down the beads.I have used this on diff covers,put it on,fill it up and drove it 15 minutes later and never had a leak.I usually let it set up a couple of hours before firing up an engine.

[dznucks]

Ok. i will probably lock tight them down anyways.

Longhair, other than a PCV valve and a baffle is there any thing else that is needed to properly ventilate a motor. How often do i need to change a baffle or how to i tell if it needs to be changed?

thanks again.

[LONGHAIR]

If you feel that you have to use lock tite, at least use the 242. It is designed to be "removable". The red stuff is too strong for this application.