Front Suspension Drop Choices???

[chevy_mike]

Okay, I am looking to do a 3-3.5" drop on my '68 longbed. I am going to use 15x8" rallys that came off a mid '70s truck (I think 4.5" BS). I also have a set of disc brakes (complete) from a '74 donor so keep that in mind with the choices.

I have been reading this site and researching the best method for dropping the front end. My last '68 I had done dropped A-arms from So Low (no longer around) using the stock coils. It rode great and was very happy with the ride and look.

Now I am pondering which method to go. Any benefits or opinions on which method?

2.5" drop spindles with 1" drop springs from ECE, $443
3" DJM dropped spindles, Summit Racing $230
3" CCP dropped A-arms, $369

I am not looking to ever go lower and if I did, I would bag it. It seems like the best "value" is the DJM 3" spindles but don't know about the clearence issues with the wheels I want to use.

Getting ready to order this stuff and I want to do it right the first time but I also don't want to just throw money away if not needed. I have other parts to buy as well. BTW, I am going with 5" dropped ECE springs in the rear and converting over the '74 rear end.

Thanks for the help and advice.

[Joe67]

ECE is my first choice

[68_chop_top]

Spindles and springs in the front.
Springs, lowering blocks, and C notch in the rear.

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by Joe67

ECE is my first choice

I couldn't have said it any better...

[see ten]

I've got the same ECE setup on the front that you're considering. They're really top notch and the only way to go in my opinion. Odds are you're going to have some scrubbing issues with those wheels no matter which way you go. You might want to consider finding a couple of 7" wide rallies for the front.

[jlaird]

No to the drop arms. ..Considering the price difference of the DJM and ECE, I would go with the DJM spindles. Not endorsing them or anything, but I have them and am happy with the quality.

[72BlckButy]

The good thing about running some type of drop spindle, not sure about the 3", but with the ECE 2.5" it will help to keep the factory geometry on the front end, rather than running a large drop spring with a stock spindle.

[chevy_mike]

Thanks for the input guys. Actually I realized I did my math wrong this morning. The ECE setup is $343 not $443 as I posted.

Sound like what I was figuring, ECE all the way. I guess that makes it easier since the rear stuff was going to come from them.

Here is another question, since I have the front steering parts from the '74 donor, would it be smarter to use the '73-'87 spindles, so I can use those ball joints and tie rods or stick with the '67-'70 spindles? I have to replace the BJ and tie rods anyways. My thinking was the later model stuff was stronger and cheaper.

Thoughts???

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Thanks for the input guys. Actually I realized I did my math wrong this morning. The ECE setup is $343 not $443 as I posted.

Sound like what I was figuring, ECE all the way. I guess that makes it easier since the rear stuff was going to come from them.

Here is another question, since I have the front steering parts from the '74 donor, would it be smarter to use the '73-'87 spindles, so I can use those ball joints and tie rods or stick with the '67-'70 spindles? I have to replace the BJ and tie rods anyways. My thinking was the later model stuff was stronger and cheaper.

Thoughts???

Yup, go with the newer stuff.

[72BlckButy]

I've heard the replacement parts for the 73-87 arms are a lot cheaper, so if you don't care about sticking with factory year parts, then I'd say go for it!

[70~BigBlock~Project]

I know my philosophy on suspension isn't very common, but I think changing the ride height of a vehicle should always be done through the suspension. So I guess I'll be the only one to say use 3" lowering springs. Reduced suspension travel and a little additional camber will really let you cut some tight curves...but I understand not everyone plans to lay their 4000# classic truck into a hard corner at 50mph, haha!

[see ten]

More than one person on this board has started with 3" springs and ended up going back and using drop spindles combined with a drop spring. On the flip side I know guys that have ran them and been well satisfied, but I wouldn't run em.

Oh......Spindles are part of the suspension.

[N2TRUX]

Why is this even a question? The 3" spindles are cheaper, and will not have an adverse affect on your ride. Why would you want to spend more money?

If you decide you want to go lower, a 1" spring is like 89.00 or you can cut a coil off the stock spring for free.

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Why is this even a question? The 3" spindles are cheaper, and will not have an adverse affect on your ride. Why would you want to spend more money?

If you decide you want to go lower, a 1" spring is like 89.00 or you can cut a coil off the stock spring for free.

Well, that's kind of the question I have been trying to get a clear answer to. If 3" drop spindles don't cause any problems over the ECE method, what's the benefit for the ECE stuff? I am not questioning they make/sell great items but the cost of not buying front springs with spindles, allows me to pay for the rear ones. Those will come from ECE (plus super track bar, shock relocation kit and spring perches).

I just want to make sure I am not going to run into clearence issues with tie rods/control arms with 3" spindles and using 15x8 wheels. As far as ride quality, I was happy with the stock front springs in my last '68 and the current one.

More thoughts???

[see ten]

2.5" spindles are going to have some lower control arm/wheel interference so imagine that 3" spindles will as well. I've also read that the 3" drop spindles don't net a full 3" of drop. I've heard rumors about fitment problems with DJM parts, never heard of any issues with ECE.

Oh, and DJM.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=failure

[lolife99]

Buy all the new suspension parts for a '74 model front suspension. I would use Belltech 3" drop spindles (Should be for 1.250" wide rotors,... but measure first before ordering) All the parts will be WAY cheaper. Plus you get the added benefit of the rubber bushed a-arms. Do a little trimming of the lower control arm around the lower balljoint area, (so you can run ANY wheel), and your set. Since the FRONT track width is wider than the rear on these trucks,... I like to also run 7" ralleys on the front. To me they look better tucked under the fenders.

[72BlckButy]

Point... blank... and simple!

[N2TRUX]

I have had several trucks with DJM spindles and have had no issues. Then again, I'm not running 15" wheels any more. The last time I ran 15x8's I used Belltech 3" spindles. I modded the stock control arm's by cutting the lip off, and boxing the bottom.

No issues after that...

[70~BigBlock~Project]

Originally Posted by see ten

Oh......Spindles are part of the suspension.

Would you consider lowering blocks parts of the suspension? Same thing as drop spindles.

[see ten]

Originally Posted by 70~BigBlock~Project

Would you consider lowering blocks parts of the suspension? Same thing as drop spindles.

None of my trucks run blocks. But sorry, spindles are part of the suspension and a much better way to lower a vehicle than just using a 3" drop spring. A stock spindle is part of your suspension, so a dropped spindle is obviously part of your suspension as well. All it does is move up the part where the rotor and hub is mounted causing the truck to ride lower. It doesn't effect your ride and keeps alignment problems to a minimum. Sure drop springs are cheaper but by no means are they better.

[70~BigBlock~Project]

Originally Posted by see ten

But sorry, spindles are part of the suspension and a much better way to lower a vehicle than just using a 3" drop spring. A stock spindle is part of your suspension, so a dropped spindle is obviously part of your suspension as well.

How does effect the ride or handling or the vehicle? If it doesn't have travel to it I don't consider it part of the suspension. 3" drop springs and a set of a-arms with the correct geometry for the lowered ride height is the way to go. It reduces the suspension travel which in turn improves handling characteristics by lessening the amount of natural sway.

By using longer springs and drop spindles you lower the vehicle's center of gravity in relationship to the ground, but the vehicle's center of gravity to its own axles remains the same and this is what causes sloppy handling. Its all fine if you just want to lower it for looks, but to me aesthetics are secondary to function.

The way I look at them, spindles are part of the axle and steering. Using them drops the body without changing the suspension. Its the same thing as body lift Vs. suspension lift. One is for looks the other is for performance.

[Dream57]

I agree with "SEE TEN " Other than hitting tagging occasional speed bump my truck handles just as good or if not better than stock, with no alignment problems.

[70~BigBlock~Project]

Originally Posted by Dream57

I agree with "SEE TEN " Other than hitting tagging occasional speed bump my truck handles just as good or if not better than stock, with no alignment problems.

I'm not arguing that. I'm talking about applications to make the truck handle much better than stock.

[blk81shrt]

I have 3" belltech spindles on my 81, and my stock rallys rub on my control arms. they ride great though with bigger wheels. Im looking into putting on 16" or 17" rallys, i think that would look killer

[see ten]

My truck handles much better than stock. I hope you enjoy the money that you saved by not buying springs by buying yourself something nice! A 3" drop spring will fall out of the spring pocket when you jack a vehicle up by the frame..........That can't be good. I guarantee you'll find more people on this board that have went from drop springs to spindles than have went from spindles to drop springs.

A body lift, lifts the body of a vehicle.

A spring lift, lifts the entire frame, engine, trans and the body.

Spindles lower the frame engine and the body. Which in turn lowers the center of gravity and will cause it to handle better.

I don't just drive my truck in a straight line I drive it hard! We go everywhere with it and have even made several passes through Deals Gap with it. I also run an ECE quick ratio steering box and a sway bar from a ton truck.





Sometimes I even run it hard enough to keep up with the slower bikes up there.



I can say this.....You were right when you said that you were one of the few people who thought running a 3" drop coil is better than a drop spindle.

A spindle moves up and down and turns left and right and my rotor and wheel bolts to it. Without it I have no suspension.....So , Yeah I believe that it's part of my suspension.

I've got about a case of beer in the shop fridge plus some bottled water and cokes if you don't like beer. You're more than welcome to come down and talk trucks and drink til the fridge is empty but we're still probably not going to agree on this one bro!