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Old 06-24-2008, 10:19 AM   #1
Hittman
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From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

No the 3 months to do a body swap is not that impressive but considering I have never done it gives me some satisfaction for sure. Just got the exhaust installed last week as the finishing touch to get the beast back on the road. Fortunately everything seems to be in good working order, brakes, steering, tranny...you know, the important stuff. I do have a couple issues of leakage around the input shaft seals on the rear end as well as the front pumpkin. The rear seems to be getting worse the more I drive - it's actually starting to leave puddles. Not sure what it will take to replace but I need to get at it soon. I am posting this in both the 67-72 and 4x4 message boards as I have questions for the 4x4 guys below.

Heres the build progress (short version): I bought the fairly clean bone stock farm truck in Feb. 07 with about 56,000 on the clock and drove it until this past February where the odometer read 58,800. I located a '71 4x4 frame which was already prepped with POR15 and new brakes and bought it for $300. I began tearing the truck down around the first of March and by April had most of the parts scattered all over the place. A neighbor of mine who has a nice '71 K10 was swapping out his small block 400 for a more fuel efficient 350 with fuel injection. He bought the 400 about 10 years earlier with about 30K on it (came out of a '72 Caprice grandma grocery getter) and re-ringed it, replaced the bearings, put a double roller timing chain and a mild cam. He put about 60K on it before he came across this late model small block. I bought the 400 for $300 and sold my original 350 to a friend for $300. Through many delays in timing to get friends and neighbors to help with the body transfer, issues with finding certain parts, and my overall lack of knowledge in any of this I finally got it running and on the road last week. I can't tell you how good it feels to be driving it again....despite the extra dollar per gallon gas went up during that time! That 400 runs real strong though I'm sure those extra 50 cubes will drink a bit more. So yeah I kind of created a mut out of it all however. I call my '69-'72 now. '69 tranny and transfer case, '70 body, '71 chassis, and a '72 small block.

Anyway, thanks to all here who chipped in their help when I got stuck on various issues throughout the build. You all have been a big help in my quest to complete this. I would like to find some better wheels for it sometime - I sold the previous chrome wheels to fund the new exhaust. For now the stockers will have to do. Haven't determined if it looks better with or without the dog dish hub caps - what would you guys suggest for wheels? I'm not a big fan of GM's stock 8-bolts. I understand the 8-bolts from F**d and D##ge may work on these. Otherwise will have to go with aftermarket rims and as you know can get rather expensive. My next push will be to get the body prepped for paint. I think I am on a 2 plus year plan for that however as money as always is tight. I do have a nice rust free and straight box in line right now. Other than rockers the rest of body/cab is in great shape.

Question for you 4x4 guys - I currently have a '69 Rockwell and man is it a whiner. My brother has a '71 NP205 bolted to the back of a TH350 that he is getting rid of.. I am fine with keeping my 4-speed since I really don't want to swap a steering column, pedals, linkage, etc. What does it take to adapt the 205 from an auto to my tranny? I have recently seen a thread on the how to for the swap from the Rockwell to 205 but wasn't sure what else would be necessary for my situation. Would you all recommend I go to the trouble of swapping them or just live with a little extra noise going down the road? No idea on how many miles or abuse are on either transfer case. I know the 205's are much more abundant thus easier/cheaper to rebuild. Not sure I really want to go to the trouble if it's not worth it. What can I look for to determine if either is in need of a rebuild?

Thanks again all for your help!
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1970 C20 350 4-Speed no options but only 56K original miles.....Now a K20 mutt with a SB400!
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:27 PM   #2
Luvlegs
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

ummm NICE.... geesch - on year 3 right now with mine and, well.... you have a nice lookin' ride.
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:48 PM   #3
mrein3
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hittman View Post
...stuff deleted
So yeah I kind of created a mut out of it all however. I call my '69-'72 now. '69 tranny and transfer case, '70 body, '71 chassis, and a '72 small block.

...snip...

Question for you 4x4 guys - I currently have a '69 Rockwell and man is it a whiner. My brother has a '71 NP205 bolted to the back of a TH350 that he is getting rid of.. I am fine with keeping my 4-speed since I really don't want to swap a steering column, pedals, linkage, etc. What does it take to adapt the 205 from an auto to my tranny?

I have recently seen a thread on the how to for the swap from the Rockwell to 205 but wasn't sure what else would be necessary for my situation. Would you all recommend I go to the trouble of swapping them or just live with a little extra noise going down the road? No idea on how many miles or abuse are on either transfer case. I know the 205's are much more abundant thus easier/cheaper to rebuild. Not sure I really want to go to the trouble if it's not worth it. What can I look for to determine if either is in need of a rebuild?

Thanks again all for your help!
First of all welcome to the mutt club. I know for a fact I have all but 1967 represented in my pickup.

Now to answer your question. You can't adapt a 205 that was from the factory attached to a th350 to your 4-speed. The input shaft on your brother's t-case has 28 splines. In all likely hood your 4-speed has a 10 spline output shaft.

To use the th350/np205 you need the column and linkage. I know you can leave the pedal alone as my clutch pedal has been in there since I did the 3-speed manual to th350 swap in 2001. In fact I still find it quite comical when you see the look on a guys face when he pushes the clutch pedal that isn't attached to anything and nothing happens.
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:57 PM   #4
Down south truckin
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

Looks good!! There's just something about a three quarter ton four wheel drive. ...DST
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Old 06-25-2008, 04:45 PM   #5
Hittman
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

Thanks guys for your input. It has been fun and there is definately a sense of accomplishment when you fire it up for the first time and hit the road. It definately turns some heads now and I have gotten a few compliments already. I will probably just keep the old rockwell and 4-speed until it breaks - why fix it if it ain't broke! I have since insulated the floor better filled the holes with some old carpet pad insulation which has made a huge difference. I have yet to get boots for both shafts or carpet which should help a bunch also

I am actually trying to come up with a center console that will work around the sticks giving me a place to insert speakers and a little room for a drink holder...yeah should be interesting if I can accomplish this goal. Actually if there is anyone out there who has done such a feat of engineering please post your pics. I don't want to go to bucket seats just to make room so anything made for the stock bench would be great. There just aren't too many places to insert speakers in these old cabs without cutting into the doors which I don't want to do either.

Thanks again guys.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:00 PM   #6
69halfton
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

i love the irony of pulling the 4wd chassis home with the truck its going under.

sweet lookin setup
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:35 PM   #7
msgross
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

very nice conversion...

as far as your rear leaking (yuck, that didn't sound right!) it's a fairly easy fix. If it's coming out of the yoke area then buy a seal from NAPA, remove the driveshaft. Remove the rear yoke with an impact wrench and the seal will then come off the pinion shaft and diff housing. The new seal taps right into place, I then added a flexible sealant to the splines and replaced the yoke. Added locktight to the nut and torqued it back down. replace drive shaft and your set! don't forget to top off your diff!

The axle sends have similiar seals but you have to remove the axles for that. If it's the large diff cover seal leaking then remove the 12 bolts, buy a new seal, little RTV and replace the bolts... doesn't hurt if the diff fluid has never been changed....
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:36 PM   #8
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

fyi I like the stock rims and i'd buy a nice set of 3/4 ton stock hubcaps...
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1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit"
1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig"
1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie"


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Old 06-26-2008, 12:18 AM   #9
FleetsidePaul
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

Quote:
Originally Posted by msgross View Post
fyi I like the stock rims and i'd buy a nice set of 3/4 ton stock hubcaps...
X2....the stock rims look great!.....The truck looks badasss!!!
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:40 AM   #10
Sequoyah
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Re: From C/20 to K/20 in 3 months

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Originally Posted by FleetsidePaul View Post
X2....the stock rims look great!.....The truck looks badasss!!!
quoted for truth!
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