AC guys, need some advice on retrofit

[jayharrell]

Well i've got most of my factory ac system back in. But have been looking around, and *correct me if i'm wrong* cant a 75ish truck accumulator bolt right up to where the POV and expansion valve and all that mess that is hooked up to the evaportor??

Looks like i will need to get the hoses from the condensor on to the compressor and to the evap from the 75ish to make it work. Anyone done this?? I will have to get one of those orifus tube retro kits, and end the couple of small lines coming out of my evaporator.

Am i crazy for even tring this?? The scrap yard would yeild the lines and fitting, and a new accumulator would run about $50. That for a retrofit system that will work rather then spend 5 or 600 on new valves and stuff to hope the OEM system might work. I just don't want to put the cans of R12 i've got into a system that might fail. Plus i'm on a budget.

Has anyone done this?? Anyinfo would work. I've seen a couple of threads about the orifus tube retrofit, but i'm looking more for specifics on the hoses and whats needed from someone that has done it.

ttt for hosting my wierd way of thinking. lol

[mrein3]

I'd leave my POA right where it is. Simply adjust it to work with R134a.
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...AR_MSGDBTABLE=
I don't work for AC kits or any other automotive related site.

Save your R12. Do the above procedure to adjust your POA. Go to Wal*Mart or similar and buy R134 off the shelf. That way if you have a problem you have an unlimited supply of refridgerant.

Never ever ever use a used accumulator. It contains a desiccant which is a substance that removes water from your AC system. One out of the bone yard is probably open to the atmosphere and is used up.

1. adjust POA.
2. install new o-rings. I believe ackits sells a kit for a couple of bucks to do that.
3. install new receiver/dryer - black can in front of core support that looks like the accumulator in newer systems.
4. immediatly after 3 pull a vacuum and leave it for 30 minutes to make sure it doesn't leak. This removes all water from the system. (Remember back to high school chemistry - when you lower the pressure, the boiling point of a thing in this case water goes down. You actually boil the water out of the system)
5. Charge. A stock system takes 4 cans of R12. It will take a bit more than 3 cans of R134a.

There is a 6. Enjoy AC for around $50-$100.

[jayharrell]

I've heard alot about 134 killing these old a6 compressors. What do you do to prevent that?? First i know not to cycle the compressor, but after that i'm clueless.

Here's a pic from an 85 of what i'm talking about. The only reason i bring it up is i have access to a newer burb with AC on it. Can the evaportator from a 73 and up fit in my 69 ac box??

[jayharrell]

is the OEM 69 ac stuff reliable??

i've read that they stick, and leak, and plain don't work all that great un less you go back with all new stuff.

[jayharrell]

wow. 75 looks and only one response, i must be nuts.

So. how reliable is a used, non new parts ac system on these 69s??

ttt

[Botietruck]

jay, I've heard the same thing about the old systems. I am going back with everything new in mine and will be converting to R134a. I have a new GM POA valve along with every other piece that is new, but not necessarily GM, but Old Air parts. I want mine to be as close to original as possible. But if I were looking to go with something other than the factory look, I would have purchased an aftermarket unit and saved myself some money.
Google "GM air conditioners" or "Chevrolet air conditioners" and you will most likely find an article that will answer your questions. I found several websites that address the older systems and their problems.
Good luck!

[chipflyer]

'd leave my POA right where it is. Simply adjust it to work with R134a.
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...AR_MSGDBTABLE=
I don't work for AC kits or any other automotive related site.

Save your R12. Do the above procedure to adjust your POA. Go to Wal*Mart or similar and buy R134 off the shelf. That way if you have a problem you have an unlimited supply of refridgerant.

Never ever ever use a used accumulator. It contains a desiccant which is a substance that removes water from your AC system. One out of the bone yard is probably open to the atmosphere and is used up.

1. adjust POA.
2. install new o-rings. I believe ackits sells a kit for a couple of bucks to do that.
3. install new receiver/dryer - black can in front of core support that looks like the accumulator in newer systems.
4. immediatly after 3 pull a vacuum and leave it for 30 minutes to make sure it doesn't leak. This removes all water from the system. (Remember back to high school chemistry - when you lower the pressure, the boiling point of a thing in this case water goes down. You actually boil the water out of the system)
5. Charge. A stock system takes 4 cans of R12. It will take a bit more than 3 cans of R134a.

Excellent advise, I followed that exact POA adjustment procedure with mine over 3 years ago and the A6 still pumps 134 just fine, down to about 43-46 degrees. I removed the compressor and drained the old oil, filled it with Ester oil, rotated it by hand holding it clutch up clutch down and drain. I did that 3 times until I was sure the old incompatible mineral oil was flushed out. Next I flushed each component and refilled with the proper amounts of oil.

I've heard alot about 134 killing these old a6 compressors. What do you do to prevent that?? First i know not to cycle the compressor, but after that i'm clueless.

Old A6 compressors originally had mineral oil in them, it is not compatible with 134, if you don't get rid of the old oil and replace it with Ester it will die pretty quick.

Nothing wrong with the A6 and the 134 conversion if you want to keep the stock look.

Jeff

[mrein3]

I've never heard of them sticking. Up here in the north country they leak but only in the winter. It is referred to as winter kill. When the temp drops below -22F the system de-pressurizes and you lose some R12.

Now if you do like I say, and you lose some R134a, big deal. Go to Wal*Mart and get a can for $6.50. You can buy a lot of cans of R134a at $6.50 a piece for what guys are paying to retrofit their truck to a new system.

BTW, my 1972 Chevelle has been blowing cold since I bought the car in 1984. I freshened up a 350 in 1989. After I got it going at that time I put a new receiver/dryer in, new o-rings in, sucked it dry, filled it with R12 and since then have added 2 cans. That is 2 cans in 19 years. Same system. You tell me. Do you think they leak? When I get out to get the mail, my glasses fog up. They don't fog up with when I get out of any of my newer cars. The newer systems cycle on and off all the time.

Blows colder. Cheaper to retrofit. Good for about 15-20 years between receiver/dryer changes.

I'd go stock.

[leddzepp]

Can the evaportator from a 73 and up fit in my 69 ac box??[/QUOTE]

No, the evaporator from a 73-up will not work in our trucks.

[leddzepp]

OEM stuff is very reliable if it is done correctly. I have a 72 truck that I retrofitted with R-134 3 years ago, and have never had a probelm with it. I also live in So Calif. with 100 + degree heat and run my A/C ALL the time. Mrein3 has some very good tips on how to do it right. A/C stuff insn't cheap...be prepared to spend some $$$. Don't try to mix and match parts from other year trucks...it will only add to your confusion and frustration. Keep it 100% stock or buy a vintage air/old air kit.

[jayharrell]

Cool *sorry for the pun*. Thanks guys. I'll see if i can get this thing together.

thanks.