Installing Bear Claw Latches

[prostreeter58]

Well when I decide to do something I just can't wait, and this was the case today. I have been wanting to install bear claw latches but really didn't want to cut my doors or the cab. Oh well, I did it anyway. Figured it couldn't be that difficult and it really wasn't. Just had to sit and look, think, look, and think some more. I wanted to install them so I could move my electric openers off of the doors and make it where I could use the original door panels..........here is where I am at so far. What you see is about 4 hours of looking, thinking, cutting, cussing, welding, cutting, cussing........ect.

[prostreeter58]

a few more.......................

[GRIMSS]

Glad to see you are taking plenty of pics for us TF guys. Your install looks great so far.

You've got a set. I would have hated to cut and weld on a truck that looks as nice as yours.

[prostreeter58]

Originally Posted by GRIMSS

Glad to see you are taking plenty of pics for us TF guys. Your install looks great so far.

You've got a set. I would have hated to cut and weld on a truck that looks as nice as yours.

It wasn't an easy decision............just decided to do a bunch of upgrades and this happens to be one of them..............you will be seeing a lot of changes posted in the next couple of weeks..........

[GRIMSS]

I take those are the large bearclaws?


*just saw that you didn't even take the seats out when you welded. New seats in the changes.

[GRIMSS]

Any pics of how much you cut out where the latch goes?

[prostreeter58]

Originally Posted by GRIMSS

I take those are the large bearclaws?


*just saw that you didn't even take the seats out when you welded. New seats in the changes.

na....I use a tig welder much easier to control the heat. I will take more pics of the opening when I cut the other side................I believe these are the small bear claw because they only have 2 positions on the latch. I have had them for several years. (that's how long it took me to get up the nerve to cut the holes!!)

[Tri5Nerd]

Interesting, what mechanism are you using the open the door or release the latch?

[rcrahn]

I could be wrong but it appears those pieces need to be swapped. Latch goes on door. Check out this article detailing the install of bearclaw latches.
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...all/index.html

[GRIMSS]

Originally Posted by rcrahn

I could be wrong but it appears those pieces need to be swapped. Latch goes on door. Check out this article detailing the install of bearclaw latches.
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...all/index.html

Not all the time. I believe the window track is in the way on TF trucks.

[prostreeter58]

Originally Posted by rcrahn

I could be wrong but it appears those pieces need to be swapped. Latch goes on door. Check out this article detailing the install of bearclaw latches.
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...all/index.html

Just because that is the way "everyone else does it" doesn't mean it is the only way to do it..... When building a ride, you must look at the way everyone else does things and apply the good and make adjustments to the rest to fit your application. In this case I did that purposly in order to 1. be different, and 2. to fit the product to my ideas. However, thanks for the feedback! There have been times where I have pulled a real "bonner" and someone pointed it out to me before it was to late to fix it..........

[rcrahn]

OK. How is the latch released? Most are attached by a cable to the door handle. But I suppose an electric solenoid like Autoloc offers will work.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Just wondering how do you open the door with the claw on the post of the cab?

[prostreeter58]

Originally Posted by CAL 58 GMC

Just wondering how do you open the door with the claw on the post of the cab?

I have built several fail safe points into the system, however, they are all dependant on a battery. Also, you can open the door manually by reaching behind the pillar and pushing the lever. But mostly the doors will be opened electronically...............a button on each door and a remote.

[CAL 58 GMC]

I know Autoloc makes an emergency release cable that you might consider. My concern for you is if for some reason you needed to get out in an emergency and the power were to fail you might have a hard time getting out of your truck. Just want you to stay safe!

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by prostreeter58

I have built several fail safe points into the system, however, they are all dependant on a battery. Also, you can open the door manually by reaching behind the pillar and pushing the lever. But mostly the doors will be opened electronically...............a button on each door and a remote.

Can you post some pictures of the electronics you are using/going to use?
I understand your reasoning for doing it this way and want to actually see how it works.

I'm thinking that this method would not work for me because I want to cover behind the seats which would cover/block access to the latch if I were to use your method.

Thanks for posting this info.
Tri5

[Tom Meyer]

I did my bear claws the same why. Check it out at http://71.65.61.198/web/photos/toms_...icture110.aspx. This way the solenoids can be mounted right below the latches. This is a unusual why but I think the best way. I have seen it done on outer cars and trucks. My brother did it this way on his truck. Here is a picture of his truck where you can barely see the latches http://71.65.61.198/web/photos/48_gm...picture11.aspx.

Tom Meyer

[prostreeter58]

Originally Posted by Tom Meyer

I did my bear claws the same why. Check it out at http://71.65.61.198/web/photos/toms_...icture110.aspx. This way the solenoids can be mounted right below the latches. This is a unusual why but I think the best way. I have seen it done on outer cars and trucks. My brother did it this way on his truck. Here is a picture of his truck where you can barely see the latches http://71.65.61.198/web/photos/48_gm...picture11.aspx.

Tom Meyer

Must be an east coast thing huh Tom?...........

[dwcsr]

I like the idea of the latch in the post, why couldn't you use a cable from the original inside door handle to the latch, It would be long but cables don't care, Run it like you would a power window wire out the door then down under the rocker up to the latch. You could have a switch in the original outside handle to operate the latch and popper and the emergency cable hanging under the cab corner if the battery died.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I like the idea of the latch in the post, why couldn't you use a cable from the original inside door handle to the latch, It would be long but cables don't care, Run it like you would a power window wire out the door then down under the rocker up to the latch. You could have a switch in the original outside handle to operate the latch and popper and the emergency cable hanging under the cab corner if the battery died.

Now that's a great idea!!!

[GRIMSS]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I like the idea of the latch in the post, why couldn't you use a cable from the original inside door handle to the latch, It would be long but cables don't care, Run it like you would a power window wire out the door then down under the rocker up to the latch. You could have a switch in the original outside handle to operate the latch and popper and the emergency cable hanging under the cab corner if the battery died.

That idea sound good but I think you would have problems with the cable when the door opens. The cable would need some slack for when the door was open. My guess is the inside door handle would need a long arm to pivot enough to open the door.

But you could run the cable up the rocker to just below the dash and have it in the positon like a vent pull.

[Sinisterspeed]

I like this installation location better too. I would never do shaved handles in any of my cars because of all the issues I have seen others have when they become out of adjustment; or just plain quit working. It's hard to get the door apart when its closed.

I saw them done this way a few months back on a 51 a friend of mine was painting. Very clean and pretty much fail safe since you don't ever have to depend on the latch thats now hidden in the door. I also had the same idea for a pull cable as well. The installation I saw the latch was barely visible in the door jamb and was actually mounted behind it with the only opening visible was for the striker itself. I thought with it there you can actually just reach behind the jamb on the inside of the truck and release it or you could run a cable down the inside corner of the cab and drill a hole with a grommet under the cab corner for emergency entry. Nice work so far on this one. I was interest on how this would work and look on a TF truck. Thanks for posting!

[hotrodsbyray]

i'm thinking of the same set up. i think i will run a cable from the latch release on the bear claw to a lever or handle of some type on a console so i can use it manually from inside. i am gonna use the trunk lock from an 88 camaro as an emergency latch if the solenoid fails. it is the lock you put the key in to open the hatchback of the camaro. the lock cylinder has a cable that runs to a lever already on a little mount. will put the lock either on the inner part of the "fin" behind the door or down on the rear part of the cab corner. inconspicuous but not where i have to get on my back or contort myself to reach it. maybe i could find or make a little door to cover the key hole.

[GRIMSS]

hotrodsbyray- you got a pic of that camaro lock. I like the sound of having a backup that uses a key.

[hotrodsbyray]

i'm trying to upload some photos but so far no such luck!