new engine checklist

[berencam]

getting closer to the fire up day. Anyone have a checklist of stuff that needs to be checked and double checked. (getting kinda paranoid, dont want all my hard work to go down the drain)

[HavinSomeFun]

make sure you prime the oil pump!

[petey-pablo]

Originally Posted by HavinSomeFun

make sure you prime the oil pump!

Sorry for the Jack but I have a question How do you prime the Oil Pump? My motor has been sitting in the Garage for about 5 months now it was running fine when I pulled her out for painting I will be putting her back in I am hoping this month Will I also need to Prime besides adding fresh Oil & Coolant? Thanks....By the way Nice Motor berencam Looking good!

[ksjh1316]

I don't have anything to add to the question except man that looks nice good job so far.

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by petey-pablo

Sorry for the Jack but I have a question How do you prime the Oil Pump? My motor has been sitting in the Garage for about 5 months now it was running fine when I pulled her out for painting I will be putting her back in I am hoping this month Will I also need to Prime besides adding fresh Oil & Coolant? Thanks....By the way Nice Motor berencam Looking good!

Best way is to pull the dist and put a electric drill on the pump shaft. they make a tool for this but you can make one with an old screwdriver and socket.

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by berencam

getting closer to the fire up day. Anyone have a checklist of stuff that needs to be checked and double checked. (getting kinda paranoid, dont want all my hard work to go down the drain)

If you used lots of assembly lube you have no problem adjust valves cold fire the motor set timing and run at 2000 RPM for 20 min to break in cam. Good luck always nervous time on a new motor.

[Billla]

I'll start - and then we can tune this post based on other's feedback. Hopefully you adjusted the valves on the stand - WAY easier

1. Adjust valves if not adjusted on the stand
2. Secure engine; motor mounts, towers, bellhousing bolts.
3. Secure exhaust.
4. Secure drivetrain (torque converter, etc.)
5. Check accessory drive; belts adjusted, etc.
6. Ensure engine is watertight; sending unit, hoses, etc.
7. Fill engine with water (I always use just water for break-in)
8. Ensure engine is oil tight - oil pressure sender/line, any plugs, fuel pump rod hole, etc.
9. Secure oil filter and fill engine with oil. Check dipstick markings. Add 1 pt break-in lube (EOS or similar)
10. Check starter operation with a brief "bump"; ensure grounding straps are in place. Look for any loose electrical connections.
11. Ready the distributor - #1 marked on distributor body, cap/wires ready, etc.
12. Pre-oil engine thoroughly, rotating engine 90 degrees after oil is seen in rockers until 1 full revolution.
13. Set engine to 10-14 degrees BTDC compression #1
14. Install sparkplugs
15. Ensure no oil on headers or exhaust. Have a fire extinguisher
16. Drop distributor so rotor points at #1. Bump until drops into oil pump as needed.
17. Install cap and wires, checking carefully
18. Fill carb bowl through bowl vent if possible
19. Crank and start
20. Cam break-in as recommended by cam mfgr.

What'd I miss?

[Billla]

Originally Posted by petey-pablo

Sorry for the Jack but I have a question How do you prime the Oil Pump? My motor has been sitting in the Garage for about 5 months now it was running fine when I pulled her out for painting I will be putting her back in I am hoping this month Will I also need to Prime besides adding fresh Oil & Coolant? Thanks....By the way Nice Motor berencam Looking good!

This type of tool is what you want

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

[truckdude239]

make sure your oil pug is tight use a good filter puraloter or a delco are my perfereed bands.

[Police22]

Originally Posted by haysonj

Best way is to pull the dist and put a electric drill on the pump shaft. they make a tool for this but you can make one with an old screwdriver and socket.

I did this when I rebuilt the motor in my boat.. It worked good.. as long as you get/find one long enough...

[jorgensensc]

Make sure you have good ground straps attached so you get full power to your dizzy. Wipe up any oil spillage on engine or header/ manifolds. (My buddy had wrapped headers and he spilled oil on them. During cam break in the wrap caught on fire and we had to shut it down. Burned up alot of wiring and the dry chem extinguisher made quite the mess, especially since he had the air cleaner off, DOH.) I like to use Wix (or Napa gold same thing) oil filters, but it is a preference thing.
Shawn

[HavinSomeFun]

you can also dump a little oil in each cylinder, make sure all the plugs are removed and crank it over until you have oil preasure. With no resistance on the engine and only spinning it over the pump will be primed and you will be good to go.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Make sure you have good ground straps attached so you get full power to your dizzy. Wipe up any oil spillage on engine or header/ manifolds. (My buddy had wrapped headers and he spilled oil on them. During cam break in the wrap caught on fire and we had to shut it down. Burned up alot of wiring and the dry chem extinguisher made quite the mess, especially since he had the air cleaner off, DOH.) I like to use Wix (or Napa gold same thing) oil filters, but it is a preference thing.
Shawn

Good notes!

[Billla]

Originally Posted by HavinSomeFun

you can also dump a little oil in each cylinder, make sure all the plugs are removed and crank it over until you have oil preasure. With no resistance on the engine and only spinning it over the pump will be primed and you will be good to go.

IMHO, this is really not the right approach. This much cranking wipes the cam lube off, and putting oil in the cylinders just makes a mess and delays start. The bores should be plenty wet with assembly lube.

Buy the right tool for the job for $20!