Sound deadener in doors

[pmpski_1]

I have my door panels off and was thinking about doing some dynamat or similar before putting them back on.

Couple of questions.

1. The surface isn't entirely smooth. Will the sound deadener still stick?

2. Does it matter how much I put on? I realize that the more you cover the better it will work, but if I cover up a big section in the middle, do I get that much more sound deadening by going all the way to the edges?

Thanks!

[AceX]

If you're going to do it, do it right. Clean up the metal/paint with some rubbing alcohol first, just to make sure it's clean, then apply the insulator (Dynamat) to the metal. It doesn't have to be bare metal.

Take it as close to the edges as you can.

[pmpski_1]

I should take a picture and be a bit more explicit about the roughness. It "looks like" some sort of sound deadener that was applied at the factory. I believe it has factory paint over it. Is this normal?

Also, I see 100sq.ft., 50sq.ft. and "door kits" for sale on Ebay (FatMat). I'm hoping to apply Gatorhyde over the cab floor in the future, so 50 ft may be too much for me since I don't plan to do the floor with it. Would a door kit be enough to do the doors on a 71 C20 Pickup?

I completely agree about the do it once approach

Edit: I was talking about doing the doorskins themselves but my original question may have been somewhat misleading because I was talking about door panels. So...follow up question - does it help to do both the skins and the door panels themselves? I would assume that the more you cover the better the result would be. Maybe 50 ft would be better after all

[AceX]

It's cool, I knew what you meant. I've been through it all twice now...

Well, my truck actually has 3 layers of sound deadening in the doors, two on the floor, one in the headliner, and two on the back wall.

I'd do the floor regardless of future plans. You should be able to lay the Gator Skin (or whatever else) over the FatMat without any issues.

Buy either the 50sqft package, ot the 100sqft package. My truck has over 60sqft of Dynamat, and not every inch is covered, just the major problem areas.

For the doors, do at least one layer on the outer skin, then one layer on the entire door structure. large, flat areas may require a second layer of deadener. On teh floor, cover it all, then lay a foam padding ontop of the FatMat. Cover the back wall in one layer. The headliner in one layer. You don't really need to do the firewall though.

[lyrikz]

90% of the people who use this sound deadening material, use to much...

You dont have to do the WHOLE inside of the door. It is designed (or was when i sold it) to have a 12"x12" patch stuck in the middle of the door. That will deaden the sound. Most people do the whole inside of the door. Its not necessary.. WEll, it wasnt when it first came out. I have yet to have someone show or prove to me that one way is better then another on how much you use inside the door...

Quick example is a bell. We would put a little piece on the bell and the ding would stop. We would cover the damn bell in it and it sounded the same as just using a small piece....

ehhh... anywho.

[jkaylor68gmc]

Wipe down the entire inside of the door with Wax and Grease remover. If you prep it right, it will never come loose, trust me. I did my '47 in the Dynamat Xtrmeme and preped it real well. Its on there for life. I stuck it every where. Just remember it is heavy and the doors may need alignment if you fill them.

[pmpski_1]

Here's what the inside of the door skins look like. I'm not sure about dynamat sticking to the surface. I'm sure it'll stick, but not like it should with a flat surface.

I may just do the interior door panels and call it a day.

Thoughts?

[AceX]

It will adhere to that...