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07-18-2008, 10:31 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
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Outer heater box caulk - non AC
Putting the outer heater box back on a 70 C20, after cleaning and new core. This is the third one we have have done. We usually use the strip caulk the type you peel off a roll and stick to the box, about 1/8 in diameter per string.
Using one piece of strip caulk hardly fills the gaps in spots, and using 2 pieces gets so stiff you can't press the box to the firewall. So what about some acrylic latex "house" caulk in a tube, I think it could make a huge mess but.. What has everyone else used ????
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 Last edited by Green Machine; 07-18-2008 at 10:41 PM. |
07-18-2008, 10:58 PM | #2 |
Hand Crafted C-10
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Burien, WA
Posts: 5,180
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Re: Outer haer box caulk - non AC
I've always called this stuff Dumdum and maybe it's available in different diameters. I would think an automotive paint & body supplier could send you in the right direction. You can even go to the wrecking yard and collect the stuff; roll it into the right diameter and there ya go...
Regular caulking may or may not work. I'd think using the appropriate automotive grade (dumdum) would be better...it's designed for the application. BTW-all caulkings are not the same...research before buying, if you chose this route, as the cheap stuff will only cause you grief. just my 2 cents.... |
07-19-2008, 07:36 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Springfield Illinois
Posts: 182
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Re: Outer heater box caulk - non AC
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