Flip a Blazer?

[vtblazer]

What would you fellow blazer/jimmy owners consider to be the most "saleable" features?
The most realistic price range for a decent driver?

I'm asking because I wanna 'flip' a blazer, buy it - build it and sell it.
Not for profits sake but to put more of these great classic rides back on the road.

*Color - stock or bright?
*Interior - stock or after market?
*Roll Bar - Single hoop or cage?
*Carpet - yes or no?
*Drive train - I'm thinking over drive is mandatory - yes/no?
*Lift it?

So you get the idea here, I'm asking for your input on what would make someone buy a blazer/jimmy.

[Big J]

*Color - stock or bright? red, metallic blue, or black
*Interior - stock or after market? Late model chevy with integrated seat belts front and rear 3 row from the same.
*Roll Bar - Single hoop or cage? Single 3" for 4wd. If 2wd none.
*Carpet - yes or no? Yes
*Drive train - I'm thinking over drive is mandatory - yes/no? Late model 5.3 would be a big plus... Power/mileage
*Lift it? Stock with 33.12.50 or 4" with 35 12.50's both on ralleys with stock beauty rings and centers. SSR's would look mean.
OR you could go the other route and do a 2wd conversion, bag it and roll on 20's. Probably make more money with the 2wd......

[BobbyK]

Hugger orange is bright,attention getting and all out the best looking color on our trucks...IMO.

Small 2 or 4 inch lift with 35's

Stock interior or comfortable leather with integral seat belts.

Single hoop.


Make up your mind which market your going after.
-Mall/street cruiser,never see the dirt,
-Daily driver,occ. off road.
-Trail rig.
Then build accordingly.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by BobbyK

Make up your mind which market your going after.
-Mall/street cruiser,never see the dirt,
-Daily driver,occ. off road.
-Trail rig.
Then build accordingly.

More towards the masses, a street cruiser theme will attrack more people.

Don't want to do a restoration either, the final sale price would be to high and again, cut into the number of potential buyers.

Building a trail rig is WAY to hit or miss and the dollar investment in the parts to do it 'right' is huge.

[JayDubBlazer]

Keep it stock with exception of the wheels, stereo, and interior. As a potential buyer I would be looking for a straight truck that somebody has fooled around with to much. A complete wireing harness is a nice sell as well.

[70rs/ss]

I'd say the theme on most any older vehicle (that is popular today is the "rest Mod") is to keep it appearing mostly stock with the only upgrades being to enhace performance/economy/ and safty. I am not a fan or 100% nut and bolt restos, but a nice original appearance is classy and I think would appeal to most. Updated drivetrain, stock FI if possible a 5.3/6.0/tranfer and OD trans. Or a good solid 350 with a carb if the other is too $$$, but with a 700r4 or NV4500? Stockish interior with seat upgrades or stockers but with better seat belts/restraints, AC, single roll bar, good brakes/tires and you'd have a winner. Stock colors, hugger orange, or modest colors, like silver, greys, (nuetral is less likely to be hot to some and not to others?) and carpet. i THINK IT COULD BE DONE, BUT MOST OF THE WORK AND PAINT WOULD NEED TO BE IN HOUSE TO KEEP THE COST FROM OVER-RIDING THE Crap, sorry about the caps, anyways If the labor was done by you I think you could do it and sell it for a bit of a profit or at least break even if you keep it simple and only spend the money where it counts and is needed. I think it is a great idea and cool of you to think about doing it as it will be a lot of work and if you don't intend to make any money, that is very cool of you try to grow the population!!

[AJs72K5]

The crowd you're gonna be targeting is different today than it was several years ago. People don't have as much disposible income as they used to. You have to figure out exactly who you want to buy it. If you wanna give a new generation the "sickness" we all have here, a low cost, turn-key rig is essential.

I'd think you wanna keep it fairly simple. The key is the condition of the body. Assuming you're doing the bulk of the paint and bodywork yourself, you should be ok. It's just time, right?

My 2 cents?

4" lift, 33's
Mild 350, carbed
NP205 or NP241 and a 700r4
3/4 D44 front, 14FF rear
Single hoop rollbar.
Carpet and seats that look "right"

[70rs/ss]

I agree on targeting a crowd, I think the resto mod type is the most popular because folks want to drive and enjoy, not show. So I was suggesting the OE type look, but with dependability and safety and as much economy as you can get. Or go for the OE crowd and do a nice rest, but not a show type deal either one would be sweet!!

[vtblazer]

To keep the cost's down and simplicity/dependability up, I'm leaning towards...

350ci w/TBI & serp belt set up
700r w/either a 241 or the stock 205 but the 241 has a better 1st gear and generally comes attached to a 700r K series tranny.
1/2 ton axles w/4:10 gears.
2" all spring lift w/33 radials on rally's.
Tahoe seats. (already have a set of from an 04)

Basic front tube mount set up to tie into a rear hoop for the shoulder strap issue.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

To keep the cost's down and simplicity/dependability up, I'm leaning towards...

350ci w/TBI & serp belt set up
700r w/either a 241 or the stock 205 but the 241 has a better 1st gear and generally comes attached to a 700r K series tranny.
1/2 ton axles w/4:10 gears.
2" all spring lift w/33 radials on rally's.
Tahoe seats. (already have a set of from an 04)

Basic front tube mount set up to tie into a rear hoop for the shoulder strap issue.

Sounds like a winner! The older EFI set-ups are good, and plentiful, and are dead reliable on a stock, or near stock motor, they just fell out of favor from guys trying to hot rod the motor and the computer wouldn't work right with the changes. The newer set ups have way more tuning capability for upgrades. I don't know enough about the transfer cases to offer anything other than the 700r4 has a low first so if one came from GM behind the 700R4 it would seem that is the one to use, but how will that work with the 4:10's as most late model stuff came with 3:73's as the lowest? I am not second guessing, more like trying to learn!! If it is lower geared it could actually help it with 33"'s so this is why I asked, as I have run into some dogs, because of a higher ratio (lower number 3:08, 2:73) and bigger tire, if this trans, tranfer set up would yeild an advantage, you could get good down low performance and great freeway economy? Sorry to sidetrack, love the idea!

[Long Roof]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

To keep the cost's down and simplicity/dependability up, I'm leaning towards...

350ci w/TBI & serp belt set up
700r w/either a 241 or the stock 205 but the 241 has a better 1st gear and generally comes attached to a 700r K series tranny.
1/2 ton axles w/4:10 gears.
2" all spring lift w/33 radials on rally's.
Tahoe seats. (already have a set of from an 04)

Basic front tube mount set up to tie into a rear hoop for the shoulder strap issue.

I think you have a great setup with this. I agree that most people want the simplicity/reliability which is what you are going for. Keep it simple and affordable. Your target group should be someone who wants to drive around and have some topless fun. As for color, I like the idea of hugger orange. To keep it simple you could go without all the trim.

What price range are you trying for?

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Long Roof

What price range are you trying for?

I'd say between 8K & 10K, from there the average buyer drops off IMO, some input about pricing was the next area to be addressed.

The other thought was a "build to suite" kind of sale but I can see bigger issue with that.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

I don't know enough about the transfer cases to offer anything other than the 700r4 has a low first so if one came from GM behind the 700R4 it would seem that is the one to use, but how will that work with the 4:10's as most late model stuff came with 3:73's as the lowest? I am not second guessing, more like trying to learn!! If it is lower geared it could actually help it with 33"'s so this is why I asked, as I have run into some dogs, because of a higher ratio (lower number 3:08, 2:73) and bigger tire, if this trans, tranfer set up would yeild an advantage, you could get good down low performance and great freeway economy? Sorry to sidetrack, love the idea!

Your thinking is on track.
Haven't run the numbers for final rpm's on this combo but I have with the set up I'm going to run for my own current blazer build.

Running a 700r/241 w/4:56 gears and 37" tires it works out to a low/low of 79:1 and a highway cruise of 65mph with only 1900 & change for rpm's.
The 700r has a 3.06:1 first and the 241 has a 2.76:1 ratio in low vs. the 1.96:1 of the 205.
Being sold as a cruiser, I can't see any reason's not to use the 241 t-case.

IMO a drive train with this basic combo will net out nice snappy street driving with a decent highway rpm #, which should translate into "acceptable" MPG.

[1tonblaze]

I am doing the same thing with a blazer i just got a few weeks ago . no top no engine or trans all the parts to put it back together in boxes . putting the old drive train from my blazer in it good runin 305 with a turbo 350 and orginal t case . It should make some one a nice project once i get it put together and it runing

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

I'd say between 8K & 10K, from there the average buyer drops off IMO, some input about pricing was the next area to be addressed.

The other thought was a "build to suite" kind of sale but I can see bigger issue with that.

IMHO, stayaway from build to suit, you get to build at your own pace---need a dble wall, free

[special-K]

Stock as possible,whatever color the factory shot.If you have an O/D combo for cheap,put it in.Unless the Blazer is way original.Still wouldn`t hurt most sales.

If it`s a barley there Blazer missing a whole lot,I`d make it gnarly and forget original stuff.Find used tires & wheels and lift it as cheap as possible,not for you.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

To keep the cost's down and simplicity/dependability up, I'm leaning towards...

350ci w/TBI & serp belt set up
700r w/either a 241 or the stock 205 but the 241 has a better 1st gear and generally comes attached to a 700r K series tranny.
1/2 ton axles w/4:10 gears.
2" all spring lift w/33 radials on rally's.
Tahoe seats. (already have a set of from an 04)

Basic front tube mount set up to tie into a rear hoop for the shoulder strap issue.

I'd buy that for $8-10k, if I was shopping, and it was within a few hundred miles of me. In fact, I know where I can get one like that now. The guy bought it from someone who had spent $25k on restoration a few years back. It has a couple spots of bubbling paint, but otherwise a fantastic truck. The current owner is just driving it as-is (he normally restores everything he gets), then plans to sell for about $10k.

[Old Chevy Mech]

*Color - stock or bright? I'd lean to the stock bright colors, red, blue or close to stock

*Interior - stock or after market? After market seats give better ride, however, shoulder strap seatbelts not too critical if the top will be removed allot.

*Roll Bar - Single hoop or cage? none IMHO, unless you sell it with the top removable.

*Carpet - yes or no? rubber mat, looks original, its pratical, and goes with everything IMHO

*Drive train - I'm thinking over drive is mandatory - not IMHO The engine builder who built my 350 set the cam for the tire size/rear end, I got and still get 14 minimum on the highway. I would like an overdrive but only if I could be assured of the MPG gain. I havent heard of anyone doing this with one of our trucks and jumping up and down saying how much their mpg improved. Not that ity hasent, I just havent heard anyone give testimony.

*Lift it? A very minimal lift again IMHO 2-3" max.


Try to formulate a mix so that who ever buys it wont be afraid of driving it because its "so pretty". LOL

If you did do it "Peterbuilt" style, make a payment schedule; 20% at signing, 40% at painting 80% at Drivetrain 100% at the end of the test drive. That way if they get goofy you have your money as you go.

Just my thoughts.


Frank

[vtblazer]

What's your gear ratio/tire size and highway rpm @ 65mph?

There's a compromise in there somewhere.
4:11's - great fun around town, high rpm on the interstate.
3:08's - doggy around town, decent on the interstate w/fair mpg.

There's no way a 3-speed tranny can compare to a 4-speed w/OD for all around drive-ability.

[Rokcrln]

I have 27" tall tires in the rear of Low Buck with a 700r4 and 3.41's and at 65the RPMs are 1850+-.
Your plan sounds good and I hoipe it works out good for you because I have a factory 70 2wd I plan on a simular build to sell.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Originally Posted by vtblazer

What's your gear ratio/tire size and highway rpm @ 65mph?

There's a compromise in there somewhere.
4:11's - great fun around town, high rpm on the interstate.
3:08's - doggy around town, decent on the interstate w/fair mpg.

There's no way a 3-speed tranny can compare to a 4-speed w/OD for all around drive-ability.

[Chevyman63]

Many great ideas, but I think you're on the right track by picking a price range and building from the budget. With the economy the way it is currently, the lower the price the larger potential customer base. As far as my opinion...

*Color - stock or bright? stock medium blue or red
*Interior - stock or after market? newer with integrated belts
*Roll Bar - Single hoop or cage? single
*Carpet - yes or no? yes
*Drive train - I'm thinking over drive is mandatory - yes/no? yes if the budget allows it
*Lift it? definitely 2" - 4"

[vtblazer]

Build it and they will come?

That's the big looming question, would it really sell?


Guess it's time to start searchin' for the prospective blazer.

[Chevyman63]

Like Nike says "Just Do It"

[68GMC454]

sounds liek a great plan. personaly i wouldnt be able to sell it.. havent been able to amek aprofit on anything i won here in utah.. not sure why either, most of the time if i can get my money back out of them and break even im lucky....

[Old Chevy Mech]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

What's your gear ratio/tire size and highway rpm @ 65mph?

There's a compromise in there somewhere.
4:11's - great fun around town, high rpm on the interstate.
3:08's - doggy around town, decent on the interstate w/fair mpg.

There's no way a 3-speed tranny can compare to a 4-speed w/OD for all around drive-ability.

235/75R- 16, rear ratio 4:11, eng RPM at 65 @ 2500.

Frank