Anybody know of anything comparable/cheaper than Dyna-Mat?

[superchevy]

Installing stereo and want to use some sound deadener. Dyna-May is so expensive. Are there any cheaper comparables out there/
Thanks,
SC

[oldyeller]

you might take a look at this stuff, its similiar and cheaper



the second one from the bottom.go here and search

look for this : Adhesive-Back Damping Sheets use this product # 9709T26


or the liquid Vibration Damping Compound product # 9545T1

[Alex Hayley]

Do a search on "deadener" on this board. I came with names such as RAAMmat60 and Brown Bread.

[nosto]

A few months ago I was also looking for some type of sound deadening. In addition to Dynamat, I found:

Accumat
RAAMmat
and
Cascade

At the time Dynamat was about $5.25/square foot, Accumat was $4.70/sf and RAAMmat was ~$2.00/sf.

I went for instant availability. The Cascade (and Dynamat) was sold by a local car audio store SoundsGreat . Cascade was a little cheaper, locally.

I only know the Cascade stuff, and bought the 3 layer stuff for insulation/sound dampening and the one layer vinyl (just like Dynamat, but not 'tar' based, so it doesn't smell).

I ended up spending about $350 and covered the whole firewall and part of the front of the floor with the 3 layer stuff. This is made up of a layer of neporene (like a wetsuit or a spongy mouse pad) material then a layer of lead, then another layer of neporene. [And it will protect you from X-rays, too! ] I finished the floor, headliner, back of the cab and doors with the 60mil thick vinyl.

If I clap my hands in the cab, there is almost NO echo, and I don't have ANYTHING in the cab that absorbs sound (carpet, seats, door panels, etc) yet.

Happy hunting,

[chevyhouse]

check this stuff out

http://www.b-quiet.com/

[Canada20]

Maybe not the most practical shipping-wise for people in the US but when I got my big-ass roll of the stuff from them, they were super friendly and helpful. I've been pretty lazy about making the time to try it out in my Honda so I can't say how well it works but it looks like it's some pretty good stuff. They're in Saskatchewan, Canada.

http://www.sounddeadeningmaterial.com/home.html

Greg

[chevypete396]

Anyone know about how many square feet of material is needed for one of these trucks to do a good job?

...Pete

[vfrdude]

I used the following in my daughters Eagle Talon, when I installed the sound system in it - I did the entire floorboard and trunck area - I didn't do the doors but I have enough left over to do them.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...item=801122111

100 sq. feet for about $110 - I don't remeber what the shipping was on it, the stuff is heavy...

I'll probably buy some more to do the interior of my truck...

[NSANE68!!!]

OK here's an idea I had.
Walking through Home Depot, and seen a material in electrical supply that is on a roll about 4' wide. It is some type of rubber PVC sheet. This is what I will try when the time comes, HELL of alot cheaper.
Just a thought. I mean if you really look at the other stuff offered it is really just rubber type material with the sticky glue already on it. For the price diff I can spray my own glue.

[vfrdude]

'68 chevy, late model step bed, euro taillights, fastbags, fully shaved, phantom grill, 350 with a small huffer, TH350, 12bolt Auburn posi 4:11's.........
95 Chevy Tahoe (PHATHOE) all mouldings and emblems stripped, 4/4 drop, Niche Bellas 18's, billet grill, Euro taillights, clear corners, billet antena & wiper covers, leather interior, Pioneer cd, alpine amp, Rockford 15's..........
97 CBR 900 RR, everything that is aluminum was polished or powdercoated candy purple, 6 color change Chameleon paint at $300 a pint(ouch), custom one of a kind under seat exaust, hand cut decals, runs 11 flat at 126mph'

Why get cheap now????

[Ed ke6bnl]

Originally posted by NSANE68!!!
OK here's an idea I had.
Walking through Home Depot, and seen a material in electrical supply that is on a roll about 4' wide. It is some type of rubber PVC sheet. This is what I will try when the time comes, HELL of alot cheaper.
Just a thought. I mean if you really look at the other stuff offered it is really just rubber type material with the sticky glue already on it. For the price diff I can spray my own glue.

\

I have herd of another product that is almost a copy of the stuff being solc and it is used for roofing. I checked it but I need to by a large roll, but now since I need it form my boys 70 chevy and my 50 f1 fore pu it may pay to invest in a roll. I wish I had more information on what the exact name of the product is. Ed ke6bnl

[XXL]

Originally posted by NSANE68!!!
OK here's an idea I had.
Walking through Home Depot, and seen a material in electrical supply that is on a roll about 4' wide. It is some type of rubber PVC sheet. This is what I will try when the time comes, HELL of alot cheaper.
Just a thought. I mean if you really look at the other stuff offered it is really just rubber type material with the sticky glue already on it. For the price diff I can spray my own glue.

While I agree that Dynamat is expensive, it's not an insulator in the traditional sense (which is what I think you'll be getting with the Home Depot material). Dynamat (and the various clones) is actually a transducer.

Transducers convert energy from one form to another. In this case, the Dynamat converts vibration energy into heat energy. Vibration energy is usually thought of as "noise" and can be anywhere between 'unnoticeable' and 'unbearable' depending on the resonant frequency of the material that is vibrating and the amount of vibration energy being induced. Here's a simple example-- rap your knuckles on the hood of your truck. Now rap a big tree with the same amount of energy. Truck hood makes more "noise."

So what Dynamat does is take that vibration energy and redirect it into a suspended mass that is so dense, and that has such a low resonant frequency that you don't hear the vibration energy any more. And while that energy is working so hard to vibrate the dense material, it just "burns itself up" into heat (remember this one? Energy can neither be gained nor lost, only changed). To do this, Dynamat has two different density layers (many high-end damping materials that are priced in the HUNDREDS of dollars per foot use a dozen or more such layers to transfer and trap the energy for dissipation into heat). It is the outer layer that is the most dense, and that does all the work. The inner layer is an isolation layer so the vibration energy doesn't just move back into the metal and make noise again.

Noise technology is fun stuff

I hope this helps,

Kenneth

[Tim Christian]

I am using Quality Heat Sheild It is the siver shinney stuff old street rodders use. It comes in 36" x 72" roll for around $25.00 It is temperature resistance from -40f to 700f I figure all the street rodder can not be wrong for all these years.

[oldcarbuff]

That roll stuff for roofing is called ice dam. It is used in the valleys of roofs. It is a roll of asphalt stuff with a very sticky glue on the back. I don't know if I would use it in my car or truck if it was in an area that might get stepped on, as it is pretty soft.

OCB

[NSANE68!!!]

The stuff at home depot is not the asphalt stuff. I know what that is. It is similar to the SH!T the factory used in 67-72 for doors and under carpet.
I am talking about a rubber mat material, just offering suggestion alternatives.
The reason I have all those toys in my sig, is because I know where you can and can,t cut corners, and dynamat just seems like GLORIFIED RUBBER, backed by a bunch of scientific theory, JMO

[XXL]

Originally posted by NSANE68!!!
and dynamat just seems like GLORIFIED RUBBER, backed by a bunch of scientific theory, JMO

I wasn't quoting their literature... I have spent many years in acoustical design and engineering. A former partner and I designed and built the Artemis Systems EOS loudspeaker (for you high-end audio people out there) and we went on to design and build the entire line of Meret Audio loudspeakers-- Re, Ay, and Ankh... of which, the Ay made Stereophile's 'Class B' list ('Class A' is the "you couln't afford these if you wanted to" list. Class B is the best-of-the-best where price is under $15k or so). Much of our product design was involved in just this issue of noise-- odd-ordered non-linearities to the speaker designers out there We actually used a viscous damping material in our designs (yes, part of our speaker was still "wet") to do this vibration energy transduction.

And there's yards of books filled with scientific {u]evidence[/u] to support these assertions... even those made by Dynamat. Next time you're in an earthquake and you happen to be in a modern building that doesn't cave in on your head, you'll probably appreciate all that "theory."

Having said all that, we all get to make our own choices on such things, and if "cutting corners" works, then do it. I often cut corners myself on things that I deem it appropriate to do so.

Kenneth

[Canada20]

<<So what Dynamat does is take that vibration energy and redirect it into a suspended mass that is so dense, and that has such a low resonant frequency that you don't hear the vibration energy any more. And while that energy is working so hard to vibrate the dense material, it just "burns itself up" into heat (remember this one? Energy can neither be gained nor lost, only changed). To do this, Dynamat has two different density layers (many high-end damping materials that are priced in the HUNDREDS of dollars per foot use a dozen or more such layers to transfer and trap the energy for dissipation into heat). It is the outer layer that is the most dense, and that does all the work. The inner layer is an isolation layer so the vibration energy doesn't just move back into the metal and make noise again. >>

Holy crap! now I know who I'm asking first about building myself a sound-proof (ish) room for practising!

[Shane]

I think the original poster was asking for less expensive alternatives......not the pro's and con's of a certain name brand.

The only reason I replied is that I too am interested in a lower cost solution to the sound dampening materials and reading the praises of a certain product is null when I can't afford to buy it in the first place.

Just my take on things.......no disrespect meant to anyone.

[vfrdude]

The product I referred to was/is much cheaper than DYNAMAT -

The shipping was about $25.00 plus the $110 = $135 for 100sq ft. that's $1.35 per sq foot.

Dynamat Extreme, which this product compares to, is about $230 for 36 sq. ft. Thats about $6.30 per sq. foot...

So, it is a cheaper alternative, which the original post was asking for. I figured $140 wasn't too much to spend, after spending the money for the stereo components - head unit, wiring kit, two amplifiers, 4 speakers, subwoofer...

By the way, the system sounds EXCELLENT! The system hits hard, and the car doesn't sound like it's going to rattle apart.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Shane
I think the original poster was asking for less expensive alternatives......not the pro's and con's of a certain name brand.

The only reason I replied is that I too am interested in a lower cost solution to the sound dampening materials and reading the praises of a certain product is null when I can't afford to buy it in the first place.

And what I was trying to get across is that substituting "some sticky blackish-brown stuff" MAY not be a solution at all (ASSuming the "solution" you were looking for was one that, if the price was lower, Dynamat would have solved). I am also not particularly fond of Dynamat, for a number of mostly technical reasons, but #1 on my list is price. I just flat can't afford it, and I too prefer a cheaper solution. The key word though, is solution. If it doesn't do the job, it doesn't really matter how cheap it is. Do you agree?

Kenneth


* And pretty much as always, no disrespect intended from my end either.

[guypm]

I used that stuff from Lowes that is double foil backed with the 1/4" air bubbles in plastic with the foil on the outside. My Air conditioner man suggested this product. Its a lot cheaper and may not be as "quiet" as the other high dollar stuff, but after laying the carpet on top, it works well for me. I also sprayed undercoating on bothe sides of the metal too. Give it a try before spending the big bucks, you might be suprised.
Hope this helps,
Guy