Build update - need advice

[tucsonbroker]

It's been almost a year and I've gotten a lot done on the blazer.

All transmission and engine oil leaks fixed. New oil pan, timing cover, valve covers and motor mounts.
New 3" Y pipe exhaust, exiting via 1 pipe in front of the left rear tire
New steering gear box.
Lockers in the rear, new cover
All new springs, bushings. Lift is 6"
New drop arm.
Recovered the front seats
New Alternator
Remounted the rear seat, welded supports underneath
New ignition switch, headlight switch, new headlights and all electrical gremlins fixed. Dash lights operational.
Autometer Gauge cluster and gauges installed.
Minor rim issues fixed.
CD player and speakers installed.
Center console installed
Door glass, rollers installed and door seals installed. Triangle windows installed with new gaskets.
Door panels installed, with armrests.
New brakes, longer brake lines, and new master cylinder.

Ok, here is where I need help:

I'm getting a push bar from a member here and plan on welding on tabs for some offroad lights. Are KC highlights any good? Any other suggested brands? I need something BRIGHT, as I will only have these in this location.

My carb is a piece of crap and I need something reliable. Maybe an electric choke, but something that will work when I take it offroad in odd angles. I had read that Edelbrock Q-jet is a good one. Or a Holley. Engine is a 350.

Thanks in advance. I'll snap some photo's as I know folks here like to see that stuff.

[BLUE THUNDER]

Dude, please trace the pushbar sides on a piece of paper and give me the center tube lengths measurements. I was bidding on one on ebay butdude sold it. I'll send you my address if ur willing to do that. Let me know, thanks, Mario

[tucsonbroker]

Originally Posted by BLUE THUNDER

Dude, please trace the pushbar sides on a piece of paper and give me the center tube lengths measurements. I was bidding on one on ebay butdude sold it. I'll send you my address if ur willing to do that. Let me know, thanks, Mario

I can do that!

[BLUE THUNDER]

That was fast man, thanks. Shoot me an email so i can send you my address. Thanks, Mario

[bouncytruck]

I've heard good things about the Edelbrock Q-jet too, but I've never had one. Have you considered an injection system?

[BLUE THUNDER]

I guess this wld help, preslee@hotmail.com

[tucsonbroker]

Originally Posted by bouncytruck

I've heard good things about the Edelbrock Q-jet too, but I've never had one. Have you considered an injection system?

Wouldn't an injection system require a new manifold? Never thought about it, what does it entail?

[bouncytruck]

Edlebrock makes complete systems. I don't think they're cheap though.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...pf_intro.shtml

[Blizz]

not cheap at ALL...the pro flo 2 runs about $3k...but does include EVERYTHING...TB, intake, ECU, harness and tuning modules as well as a connection to a laptop. one of these days WHEN i get mine running and have some extra funds layin around, i wouldn't mind going that route.

[vtblazer]

Q-Jets can be reworked to be an acceptable off road carb but in reality, going injected is the final answer to off camber issues.

A stock TBI set up can be had for reasonably cheap money, the install isn't to bad either.

Another mod you might want to consider would be to do a serpentine belt set up for it's simplicity and dependability.

[Big J]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Q-Jets can be reworked to be an acceptable off road carb but in reality, going injected is the final answer to off camber issues.

A stock TBI set up can be had for reasonably cheap money, the install isn't to bad either.

Another mod you might want to consider would be to do a serpentine belt set up for it's simplicity and dependability.

All great advice. I'm thinkin' about TBI on mine per VT's advice. And the most important thing to remember is we have got to see pics! I think its a rule now, you can't submit a thread like this without pics. I forget what the punishment is but I'm sure its bad. Just kiddin', but when you get the chance, post'em up..... of progress that is.

[MrBeast]

Before throwing in my .02 I am going to give you a bit of history on myself, I have owned 6 of the 67-72 body style trucks with engines ranging from 350 CID to 454 CID, and 7 of the 73-87, 3 of the 88-98, and a 99 model. With the TBI or vortec 350, vortec 454, or vortec 5300. Worked on all of them to some extent.

Thus if given my choice, I would take fuel injection every time. EFI motors have been some of the best I have ever touched, expecially the Vortec 454 being my absolute favorite of the lot, I will actually be refitting my 72 Blazer with a Vortec 454 some time next year. Now, from the realistic aspect, Fuel injection is expensive to purchase but not to own as compared to a carb. I have run many carburators, my favorite of which being the early 70's model Q-jet. I really dont care for Holley's or Carters, I just dont like thier design, expecially in a truck.

The thing is though, the best built carburator in the world will be no match what so ever for a well setup and thorught out fuel injection system. With in reason though the EFI system is cost prohibative initally, in the end though the EFI is the better ecanomical choice, because it will be more reliable than the carb, and it will get superior fuel economy.

In your shoes what I would sugjest you consider doing, is taking your stock Q-jet and rebuilding it. Take the bottom flange of the carb, the one that has the butterflies to a reputable machinist, and have them install oil impregnated brass bushings on the butterfly shafts, this will seal up the vaccum leak that every Q-jet develops over time due to wear, it will round out the hole to some extent, and cause a vacum leak, this will cause your engine to run like crap.

When you go to do this, as well get the manual on the Q-jet, there is a great book out there on them, actually there are quite a few, find a good repair manual, read it, understand it, and you can fix your own carb for less than 150.00 including the price of the book and machinist work.

Not only that but in the end you will know how to repair, service and tune your own carburator. This will do you far more good than buying an off the shelf edlelbrock model that is "ready to run"

The problem with these "ready to run" type carbs is they are a genaric setup, aimed at a genearic motor, and anything outside of thier envalope isnt going to match up, and you are going to be into tearing it down and putting the right jets and metereing rods in it anyways, where as your factory Q-jet probably allready has them.

Another thing I highly recomend you do, if you havent allready is ditch the stock Q-jet fuel filter, and install an inline filter, I prefer the glass type so you can see if the carb is getting fuel, it makes it auful damn easy to spot a faulty pump that way.

As far as the lights go, KC's are good, kind of the "golden oldie" of lights they are time tested and I have run em happily, I also really like the PIAA's

If you have any more questions about that kind of stuff let me know. - Nick

[bouncytruck]

Good info MrBeast. I might have to look into the Q-Jet mod as I think it's getting close to time for a rebuild (original carb with 128K miles on it).

I will have to say I have heard bad, bad things about the glass fuel filters on the board. Most say remove them immediately because they tend to break and cause engine fires.

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by bouncytruck

Good info MrBeast. I might have to look into the Q-Jet mod as I think it's getting close to time for a rebuild (original carb with 128K miles on it).

I will have to say I have heard bad, bad things about the glass fuel filters on the board. Most say remove them immediately because they tend to break and cause engine fires.

Yes, glass is fragile, but the thing is, it is all in the meathod you use to mount said filter. I have never had an issue with them, and this includes driving a couple of hundred thousand miles with them in my vehciles, including a wee bit of air time! Where people run into problems with glass filters is when they do somthing really bone headed, like zip tieing a glass filter to your ALTERNATOR BRACKET!!!

Call me crazy, but I think why this is a bad idea is completly self evident. Installed properly however, a glass filter should give you much worry free opperation. I know on my truck I am going to be running one as secondary filter, and have a much larger diesel style filter/water seperator as my primary filter. As well going to the carb, I am going to make a new thread in fitting that will actually have a nipple that is threaded to hook directly to the threadded end of the glass filter, thus giving a good solid, easy to see mounting location for it. I am also seriously considering switching to an electric fuel pump. But that is still in the details.

The way to check your rod to see if it is worn or not is to move it about 1/4" which is where it rests most of the time and wiggle it, if there is any substantial play, you need the bushings.

the other thing I am going to add to this discussion is that when it comes to an off road vehcile a Q-jet is superior to a Holley or Carter for one simple reason, it has one smaller centralised float bowl in the center. It is by far less sensative to what angle the vehicle is sitting at as opposed to a holley that has giant fuel float bowls where if you get it on enough of an incline the fuel will slosh to one side, lift the float and starve your engine right out of fuel, and you will be stuck with a truck that wont run.

[jaros44sr]

Good info., might just do as well. I know a guy in NY that would put throttle shafts and bushings in my SU's and Strombergs

[tucsonbroker]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

Before throwing in my .02 I am going to give you a bit of history on myself, I have owned 6 of the 67-72 body style trucks with engines ranging from 350 CID to 454 CID, and 7 of the 73-87, 3 of the 88-98, and a 99 model. With the TBI or vortec 350, vortec 454, or vortec 5300. Worked on all of them to some extent.

Thus if given my choice, I would take fuel injection every time. EFI motors have been some of the best I have ever touched, expecially the Vortec 454 being my absolute favorite of the lot, I will actually be refitting my 72 Blazer with a Vortec 454 some time next year. Now, from the realistic aspect, Fuel injection is expensive to purchase but not to own as compared to a carb. I have run many carburators, my favorite of which being the early 70's model Q-jet. I really dont care for Holley's or Carters, I just dont like thier design, expecially in a truck.

The thing is though, the best built carburator in the world will be no match what so ever for a well setup and thorught out fuel injection system. With in reason though the EFI system is cost prohibative initally, in the end though the EFI is the better ecanomical choice, because it will be more reliable than the carb, and it will get superior fuel economy.

In your shoes what I would sugjest you consider doing, is taking your stock Q-jet and rebuilding it. Take the bottom flange of the carb, the one that has the butterflies to a reputable machinist, and have them install oil impregnated brass bushings on the butterfly shafts, this will seal up the vaccum leak that every Q-jet develops over time due to wear, it will round out the hole to some extent, and cause a vacum leak, this will cause your engine to run like crap.

When you go to do this, as well get the manual on the Q-jet, there is a great book out there on them, actually there are quite a few, find a good repair manual, read it, understand it, and you can fix your own carb for less than 150.00 including the price of the book and machinist work.

Not only that but in the end you will know how to repair, service and tune your own carburator. This will do you far more good than buying an off the shelf edlelbrock model that is "ready to run"

The problem with these "ready to run" type carbs is they are a genaric setup, aimed at a genearic motor, and anything outside of thier envalope isnt going to match up, and you are going to be into tearing it down and putting the right jets and metereing rods in it anyways, where as your factory Q-jet probably allready has them.

Another thing I highly recomend you do, if you havent allready is ditch the stock Q-jet fuel filter, and install an inline filter, I prefer the glass type so you can see if the carb is getting fuel, it makes it auful damn easy to spot a faulty pump that way.

As far as the lights go, KC's are good, kind of the "golden oldie" of lights they are time tested and I have run em happily, I also really like the PIAA's

If you have any more questions about that kind of stuff let me know. - Nick

That's great advice about the stock q-jet. I like to fix a lot of things myself, but fing with the carburator isn't something I feel comfortable doing. I think I am going to call a carb repair place and see how I feel after talking to the owner.

My other option is the EFI route. Perhaps something liekt eh edelbrock setup mentioned earlier or maybe something else. I don't mind paying to play, but it must be a good setup.

[DANTES JIMMY]

Sort Off A Curveball To This Discussion
But I Had A P.o.s. 70 Scout With A Propane Conversion On It And It Could Switch From Gas To Lp
From Driver Seat And When Off Road It Would Run On Its Lid On The Lp It Never Missed A Lick
Something To Think About
KC= OLD SCHOOL OK BUT NOT AS BRIGHT
PIAA=VERY VERY GOOD BRIGHT BUT NOT CHEAP
HELLA= ALSO VERY VERY GOOD BUT NOT CHEAP

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by tucsonbroker

That's great advice about the stock q-jet. I like to fix a lot of things myself, but fing with the carburator isn't something I feel comfortable doing. I think I am going to call a carb repair place and see how I feel after talking to the owner.

My other option is the EFI route. Perhaps something liekt eh edelbrock setup mentioned earlier or maybe something else. I don't mind paying to play, but it must be a good setup.

Another thought is why not find a spare carb, rebuild it, then you can swap back if it dont work, a spare carb should be no more than about 15-50.00 depending on condition. There are plenty of them out there too, hell check the parts board here, I bet you can find one with in a hundred miles of where you are, so shipping will be cheap. Also check craigslist.

[bouncytruck]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

...including a wee bit of air time!

Woo Hoo! We need to see pictures of this!

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by bouncytruck

Woo Hoo! We need to see pictures of this!

Heh, I can neither confirm nor deny the presence of....

Well I grew up in Montana if that gives you any idea, plenty of mountains to climb, and this little place we went to have fun called tickle belly hill, any guesses as to why they called it that?

[70rs/ss]

A regular edel 1405 with a set of these is all you need:

Off-Road Needles and Seats (pair) #1465
Includes a pair of spring loaded needles and .0935" seats.


These prevent flooding due to inclines and declines. Obviously EFI is the best way, but at $3k for a set up or making a TPI or TBI set-up work is time consuming and if you aren't EFI savvy, it is near impossible. The Edel will work, if 600 is too small the 750 can be adapted with the srpirng loaded needle and seats as well.

[tucsonbroker]

How about a throttle body? A friend of mine has the same motor in his Land Cruiser and offered that as a suggestion.

I'm planning on taking pictures today of everything, plus the new pushbar and PIIA's installed.

[tucsonbroker]

more pictures

[haus]

i like the push bar!

[Yukon Jack]

It is all looking great. Makes me think I definitely need to take a few minutes and clean up my push bar and get a fresh coat of paint on it!

Where did you get your coolant recovery tank? Looks like it is a nice fit. Does it have two lines going to it?