starting issue, '72. And, how to move a truck w/o axles?

[scapegoat]

Need to get this sucker started... again...

ignition switch works up until the final spot to get the starter going. replaced the switch and it fired right up and i got it into the garage... now, i need to move it out b/c i've got a parts truck coming in (front power disc brake and rear drums, 5 lug...not 6 like my truck lol)

Now, i'm having the same issue with this switch. I'm thinking this is another issue then, possibly the plug that goes into the back of the switch? How can I check? also... is there a safe way to get the truck started using just the plug? a wire between the "ign" and what... "batt" sections of the plug?

Here's the also part... when i'm done with the parts truck it will no longer have axles... and thusly no longer roll... what is the best way to remove the truck from the garage? Obviously, you all will know about this "move" b/c the truck will be up for sale, for a pittance, here... Sadly, the garage is up a short, but fairly steep driveway as well.

[thirdstreettito]

Chain + tractor/truck = out of garage.

Put it on blocks first.

[scapegoat]

lol, i should have clarified... w/o ruining the driveway by dragging a couple thousand lbs... lol...

the truck currently in there runs, just need to get it started... so just need a way to get it started :-/

[mtdave2]

i would use those four rollers that you put under each tire to move the car around. about 130 bucks at harbor freight. then yank it with a truck lol.

these
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38959

i have used them to move all kinds of things, they come in very handy

[mtdave2]

oh the starter thing.. so the key will work and will go the ON position? just jump the starter with a screw driver or one of these! if they doesnt work, just run a wire from the battery to the HEI dist. if it has points you need to use the resistance wire thats in the truck.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

[scapegoat]

what two wires would i connect that remote starter too? obviously the ign one and what would the other be on that black plug? I assume the battery one... i just want to be sure as i don't want to fry anything even though i intend on redoing the electrical in the truck since i'll be putting in a mid 90's engine >_> more on that later...

[mtdave2]

the purple one on the "P" post and the center post comming from the battery and you one fry anything if you get it backwards

[cdowns]

if you have a smooth surface it can be done without axels // a floor jack under front crossmember and an engine hoist picking up the rear, balance is critical and only lift iit an inch or so and very very carefully roll it out dont get runover or drop it on yourself CAREFULL CAREFULL slow but sure it can be moved

[scapegoat]

Originally Posted by cdowns

if you have a smooth surface it can be done without axels // a floor jack under front crossmember and an engine hoist picking up the rear, balance is critical and only lift iit an inch or so and very very carefully roll it out dont get runover or drop it on yourself CAREFULL CAREFULL slow but sure it can be moved

this might work if someones got a roll back to pick up the chassis once i'm done with it...the driveway is too steep for anything like this, but if they can level it out with the garage we could rolling it on like this...

thanks guys... i'm so excited to be able to get started on this project. I don't have space for my truck... but my neighbor does... so its a straight shot right across the street to the side of his garage for a month while I tear into the parts truck then con one of you guys to come get it for cheap

[scapegoat]

Originally Posted by mtdave2

the purple one on the "P" post and the center post comming from the battery and you one fry anything if you get it backwards

just trying to confirm things here...

the purple "sol" wire and the red "bat" wire (not the pink "ign" wire) can be touched together and that will start the truck... regardless of the switch itself being in any position? or should i put it in the one position and do this?

I'm going to need to cut away some of the plastic around the wires, but i'm not concerned one bit. Whoever wired this truck up for the 350 and MSD ignition did a ****ty job... luckily the 350 and the trucks stock wiring is going bye bye anyway in a year or so...

[mr48chev]

I had pretty much the same problem with my 71 Sometimes it starts with the key and some times it doesn't I put a heavy duty push button starter switch under the dash (in front of my left knee) and ran one wire to one of the hot all the time plugs on the fuse block and the other to the S post on the starter (the one the purple wire goes to). Turn the key, hit the push button and it cranks and starts. Almost like an anti theft device.
Make sure that the neutral safety switch is working too as they cause the same problem if they are bad or going bad.

On moving the truck w/o axles. When I taught high school auto mechanics we moved cars around all the time on two floor jacks. one under the front and one at the rear. That or the jack and cherry picker idea will let you get the truck far enough out of the garage door for the rollback to pick it up. I'd put the parts truck in the garage facing out so it is easier for the roll back to hook.

The other option is to cut the doner truck up an haul it off a piece at a time.

[scapegoat]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I had pretty much the same problem with my 71 Sometimes it starts with the key and some times it doesn't I put a heavy duty push button starter switch under the dash (in front of my left knee) and ran one wire to one of the hot all the time plugs on the fuse block and the other to the S post on the starter (the one the purple wire goes to). Turn the key, hit the push button and it cranks and starts. Almost like an anti theft device.
Make sure that the neutral safety switch is working too as they cause the same problem if they are bad or going bad.

On moving the truck w/o axles. When I taught high school auto mechanics we moved cars around all the time on two floor jacks. one under the front and one at the rear. That or the jack and cherry picker idea will let you get the truck far enough out of the garage door for the rollback to pick it up. I'd put the parts truck in the garage facing out so it is easier for the roll back to hook.

The other option is to cut the doner truck up an haul it off a piece at a time.

huh... i've got a ****ty little switch in there that was being used as a starter cutoff switch (ran through the ground)... i may move that and connect to the S wire and run a splice off the battery wire going to the ignition switch... put the switch into the run position, flip the switch on and off...

I assume the neutral safety switch would have a wire attached to the floor shifter? its a two speed power glide... i wouldn't be surprised if that is an issue... i'll double check that before I go messing with the already messed up wiring..

I think i may take the parts truck apart... literally... I'm new to this type of car work, i've done minor stuff on my srt-4... mainly maintenance... but i want to learn learn learn... may as well take it apart

[scapegoat]

ugh... ok, no start with the push button switch. same issue... power gets drained, tach goes to 0, radio dims... then nothing.

any other ideas what this issue could be? a ground maybe?

[scapegoat]

also... is this long silver piece the neutral safety switch?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=279081

[special-K]

Yes,the u-shaped thing on the column with an electrical connection.

[scapegoat]

Originally Posted by special-K

Yes,the u-shaped thing on the column with an electrical connection.

hmm... my truck doesn't have one of those... at least not in that spot