bed floor question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

hotrodsbyray · 09-28-2008, 09:47 PM

I know some of you probably have steel bed floors rather than wood. I bought a set of pine wood pieces for my 57 short step side, sanded, and then brushed on a blue 2-part epoxy paint from POR. [pictures to follow]. BUT now, like with so many of my projects i have changed my mind. I was gonna buy a newer (used) second truck for a work truck but decided to use my 57 and save the money another truck would cost. So I want to use a steel bed floor.
I am so long winded! Sorry. How do you attach a steel bed floor and not have the bottom edges of the rear fender and the step drop below the rocker and front fender lines due to the 3/4 inch thick wood not being there? Use spacers?
What gauge steel do you use for the floor and do you have to add extra braces under the floor to prevent sagging from loads over time?

sgtusmc · 09-28-2008, 10:28 PM

I've yet to add a floor to my truck, however, I've seen a few trucks with the steel floors and I've always looked under them. They all had wood floors under the steel. All the ones I've seen were show trucks with diamond plate steel. If you planned on doing it without the wood I guess you could measure where the stock bolt holes go and weld studs to the steel and use spacers/bolts to even it out. Or weld your braces to the steel, then mount them to your frame. I'm sorry I'm not a big help, Just try'n.

PDW HOTRODS · 09-28-2008, 11:23 PM

I used plywood and pollished aluminum diamond plate. It looks great, and if I was to haul something ugly I would drop in a rubber bed mat.

OrrieG · 09-29-2008, 02:01 PM

I'm going to use marine plywood with steel sheet bonded to each side. Bottom gets undercoated, top will get Rhino type coating as will inside of bed sides, front and tailgate. After Rhino I will add stainless bedrails. I plan on using it to haul stuff so wood, while looking nice, will not hold up and I don't want to worry about it.

hotrodsbyray · 10-03-2008, 05:22 PM

edited

hotrodsbyray · 10-03-2008, 05:24 PM

edited

mountainkowboy · 10-04-2008, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodsbyray

what do you bond the steel to the plywood with - regular construction adhesive? do you treat or seal the plywood and the edges first or just the edges after the bonding?

construction adhesive would work, but i would be more inclined to use a epoxy adhesive for a stronger bond, since the epoxy based stuff will bond to both wood and metals. I would also do a silicone bead around the edge after bonding and then would seal the wood. JMO

hotrodsbyray · 10-04-2008, 03:42 PM

edited

OrrieG · 10-04-2008, 04:49 PM

I am going to use an industrial contact type cement. Construction type caulk may not let the metal flatten out and have raised areas unless you can trowel it out evenly. With contact type you don't have to worry about it flashing or drying before you get the metal on. Same process a doing laminate counter tops.

09-28-2008, 09:47 PM	#1
hotrodsbyray Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TN Posts: 164	bed floor question I know some of you probably have steel bed floors rather than wood. I bought a set of pine wood pieces for my 57 short step side, sanded, and then brushed on a blue 2-part epoxy paint from POR. [pictures to follow]. BUT now, like with so many of my projects i have changed my mind. I was gonna buy a newer (used) second truck for a work truck but decided to use my 57 and save the money another truck would cost. So I want to use a steel bed floor. I am so long winded! Sorry. How do you attach a steel bed floor and not have the bottom edges of the rear fender and the step drop below the rocker and front fender lines due to the 3/4 inch thick wood not being there? Use spacers? What gauge steel do you use for the floor and do you have to add extra braces under the floor to prevent sagging from loads over time? Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:54 AM. Reason: no for sale without subscribing

09-28-2008, 10:28 PM	#2
sgtusmc Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Cali. Posts: 958	Re: bed floor question I've yet to add a floor to my truck, however, I've seen a few trucks with the steel floors and I've always looked under them. They all had wood floors under the steel. All the ones I've seen were show trucks with diamond plate steel. If you planned on doing it without the wood I guess you could measure where the stock bolt holes go and weld studs to the steel and use spacers/bolts to even it out. Or weld your braces to the steel, then mount them to your frame. I'm sorry I'm not a big help, Just try'n.

09-28-2008, 11:23 PM	#3
PDW HOTRODS Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sutherlin Oregon Posts: 495	Re: bed floor question I used plywood and pollished aluminum diamond plate. It looks great, and if I was to haul something ugly I would drop in a rubber bed mat.

09-29-2008, 02:01 PM	#4
OrrieG Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Idaho Posts: 8,800	Re: bed floor question I'm going to use marine plywood with steel sheet bonded to each side. Bottom gets undercoated, top will get Rhino type coating as will inside of bed sides, front and tailgate. After Rhino I will add stainless bedrails. I plan on using it to haul stuff so wood, while looking nice, will not hold up and I don't want to worry about it.

10-03-2008, 05:22 PM	#5
hotrodsbyray Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TN Posts: 164	Re: bed floor question edited Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:55 AM.

10-03-2008, 05:24 PM	#6
hotrodsbyray Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TN Posts: 164	Re: bed floor question edited Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:56 AM.

10-04-2008, 03:42 PM	#8
hotrodsbyray Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TN Posts: 164	Re: bed floor question edited Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:56 AM.

10-04-2008, 04:49 PM	#9
OrrieG Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Idaho Posts: 8,800	Re: bed floor question I am going to use an industrial contact type cement. Construction type caulk may not let the metal flatten out and have raised areas unless you can trowel it out evenly. With contact type you don't have to worry about it flashing or drying before you get the metal on. Same process a doing laminate counter tops.



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