stripping method

[slimneverdies]

How did you guys strip your cabs down to bare metal? What did you guys use to treat the metal before primer? I keep hearing that sand blasting and chemical dipping have to many downfalls but sanding has only the time issue. What do you guys say?

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

I had mine sandblasted and have no regrets. The older vehicles have heaver gauge steel and not as prone to heat warping. Someone skilled at blasting should not have a problem. As far as I know heat warping is the only concern I have heard on sandblasting.
Chemical dip does have potential problems concerning the acid not being completly washed out from cracks and crevasses. That will affect the paint if not washed out.

[slimneverdies]

So you dont recommend me doing it myself?

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

No you can do it yourself, I however preferred having someone else do it as I didn't want to spend the time brushing and scraping. I had my frame and all sheetmetal blasted. I just depends on what you want to do.

[56hotrodred]

I just came in from finishing my cab, front & rear fenders, box & inner fenders, tailgate - pretty much the whole truck. Actually been working on it on and off all summer. My main goal this summer was to get it all done so I can spend the winter patching and fabricating.

I bought a soda blaster to get all the edges like around windows and doors and other hard to reach areas but sanded large flat areas like the fenders and the roof, etc... Even used a bit of chemical stripper but that was my least favorite method.

I think it depends on whether you have more time than money or vice versa. I am trying to do as much as I can by myself.

I will now clean all bare metal and treat it with Picklex 20 so it won't flash rush although it is pretty dry up here and parts can sit for quit a while before any rust starts.

56hotrodred

[56hotrodred]

I am using the Picklex 20 on bare metal with no rust in order to prevent flash rust while I work on the truck parts. I am sure there is other stuff out there but all the research I did says this is pretty good stuff. It says on the pint bottle that it does 200 sq feet.

The way I understand it is that Picklex is used for rusty metal.

I just googled Picklex before I finished this and it says Picklex is for "Removing surface rust, white rust, weld scale and laser scale while providing a conversion coating in one treatment." Don't know what weld and laser scale is.

56hotrodred

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

I use loctite rust Converter. It neutralizes rust so that you don't have to remove it.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=168

[56hotrodred]

I think there is a few products out there to deal with rust. With a brand name like Loctite it is probably pretty good stuff.

I have some surface rust on underside of the cab and plan on using POR 15. Works good on rust and bare metal just some minor differences on how it is applied depending on rust/no rust. I am also going to use POR 15 products on the frame and inner fenders. Reason being is a metal fabricator that lives near here is a dealer and he swears by it. He has shown me stuff he did years ago and it still looks great.

The Picklex 20 is not for rust though just a metal treatment.

56hotrodred

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

Originally Posted by 56hotrodred

I have some surface rust on underside of the cab and plan on using POR 15. 56hotrodred

If you plan on spraying it on be sure to us a respirator not just a mask or you will be sorry. That stuff will mess up your lungs.

[56hotrodred]

I am going to brush it on. I am not set up to spray anything.

I saw the warnings about spraying and the precautions necessary - pretty scarey stuff.

Thanks though.

56hotrodred

[OrrieG]

I used stripper and da with 80 grit. If I was to do it over I would have just had it media blasted but at the time I had more time than money. Now a bunch of years later the prices have came down because there is more competition here.

[56hotrodred]

Ya with me I have very limited choices as I am out in the country and at least an hour to the nearest city that would have any kind of choice for blasting although I could not buy any soda there and had to get it from Calgary - 2 1/2 hours away.

One thing about soda blasting, or any kind of blasting I would imagine, is the mess it leaves. At least with the soda it is enviro friendly. Pretty windy out today and I finished my blasting outside so the wind blew most if it away. I have no neighbours to the east - the way the wind blew!

I have some guys coming in to finish my shop for me before winter hits and I am glad I got the messy work done first. Every corner I look in I see soda.

56hotrodred

[slimneverdies]

do any of you guys have the solution to these sandblasters clogging up where the copper and rubber meets at?

[56hotrodred]

Sorry can't help you. My only experience is with the soda blaster. Numerous variables especially humidity and/or water in your air compressor system can cause all sorts of problems.

I would think that you being in Miami would make it a high humidity environment. That would be a real problem with the soda blaster as it tends to clump up. I am sure someone will have some advise for you.

56hotrodred

[dan76]

56hotrodred: Which soda blaster did you buy and use on your project?

[dan76]

Originally Posted by slimneverdies

do any of you guys have the solution to these sandblasters clogging up where the copper and rubber meets at?

The clumping occurs when moisture laden air cools downstream of the compressor and releases water. The solution is to put an inline water trap a few feet downstream from the compressor. While living in NC I had to install two traps in my system to get most of the water. Even then I had a disposable water filter just prior to the paint gun. Usually the small tank compressors most folks have in their shops do not have the volume to cool the compressed air prior to entering the lines. I had to install an auxillary tank to allow the air to cool enough to drop moisture especially during the humid summer months. Of course you need to drain your tanks and lines at the end of each use to ensure no water remains overnight. Sometimes I would get up to a cup of water from my 60 gallon tank from just a few hours use.

[Caveman49]

Moisture is the biggest problem for sure, like dan76 mentioned. Here's a little technique a buddy of mine uses, it works great, and water rarely gets to his filter.......it's 3/4 PVC with drains at the bottom of each run as you see in the picture.




He runs this PVC throughout his shop, and has drain valves throughout, the filter is the end of the line in his spray booth.

[msgross]

I hate blasting, paid $375 for my cab, tailgate, grille, all bed cross sills...

came out great and rust free.

then I used SPI epoxy primer and sealed it all up...

[56hotrodred]

Originally Posted by dan76

56hotrodred: Which soda blaster did you buy and use on your project?

I got the least expensive one that Eastwood sells. It was the imported one.

56hotrodred

[56hotrodred]

Originally Posted by msgross

I hate blasting, paid $375 for my cab, tailgate, grille, all bed cross sills...

came out great and rust free.

then I used SPI epoxy primer and sealed it all up...

After my recent blasting experience(s) I have learned to hate blasting also. Living out here in the country an hour or two from any blasters I was glad I did it myself. Not too sure if I would do it again though.

56hotrodred

[BarryB]

Originally Posted by 56hotrodred

After my recent blasting experience(s) I have learned to hate blasting also. Living out here in the country an hour or two from any blasters I was glad I did it myself. Not too sure if I would do it again though.

56hotrodred

Well that definately has alot to do with it. I have a local blaster not 10 minutes from the house. He charges $60 perhour, and said he could do a frame in 2. It would take me all day.

[slimneverdies]

Well I guess the best way to see what works best for you is to just do a trail and error.

I tried three different methods. First I used the DA sander and it was effective but just way to much time. Then I tried the sandblasting and really liked the results but its just way to messy unless you just have to use it. Finally I found the winner in my book. Its the paint stripper. You just have to be careful with this stuff. If it gets on your skin it will feel like you fell in a bed of ants. Also dont inhale it either. I made a mistake 3 weeks ago and got it in my sinus and I cant get the smell out of my nose. I learned my lesson and will respect this stuff from now on.

Here are some pics of the stripper in action....

[spdfrek]

I haven't started on my truck yet, but I use this stuff to stip some of the most stubborn paint and clears.

aircraft remover

[slimneverdies]

Yup!! Thats what I used. Just hopefully theres no bondo anywhere because this stuff just makes the bondo slick and your gonna have to pull out the scraper.