reproduction steel doors or fiberglass?

[tommys66]

I am having trouble finding a set of good oem doors. From southeast missouri and everything around here is rusted out. Would be willing to drive for a good set though. Just wondering if anyone has used the repo steel or fiberglass doors. Curious if they fit well or not. Thanks for any input.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by tommys66

I am having trouble finding a set of good oem doors. From southeast missouri and everything around here is rusted out. Would be willing to drive for a good set though. Just wondering if anyone has used the repo steel or fiberglass doors. Curious if they fit well or not. Thanks for any input.

Check out my build link it will show what I went thru. I used Goodmark doors. I don't know which company actually made them for Goodmark. Over all I'm pleased with the overall fit. I did have to do some cutting only on the top front edge of the drivers door.



They are a little wavy.

[MEANlowGREEN]

Yep, the Goodmark doors will require a little tweaking like Alan showed you but that goes for any aftermarket sheet metal. They are high quality parts though. I would always go steel if it's available. Unless you are building a racer and need it to be light weight.

[skidder111]

Personally I would go thru the heartache of rebuilding the originals over another set of Goodmarks. There are definite differences/flaws compared to the originals. I got them to work, but..........Maybe I'm just too fussy.BTW this was on a '72.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by skidder111

Personally I would go thru the heartache of rebuilding the originals over another set of Goodmarks. There are definite differences/flaws compared to the originals. I got them to work, but..........Maybe I'm just too fussy.BTW this was on a '72.

I know the 67-72 Goodmark doors have alot of issues. Two coworkers replaced both of their doors on both trucks and had alot of problems.

[tommys66]

good lookin cab. I see you have shaved the drip rails on the posts, is this why you had to add the piece to the door?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by tommys66

good lookin cab. I see you have shaved the drip rails on the posts, is this why you had to add the piece to the door?

I thought that was the cause, but the passenger side lined up pretty good.

[protrash64]

A little off topic, but here goes anyway. I bought a re-pop fender for my pick-up and thought it sucked. I took out the piece from behind the grill and replaced it w/ the original and figured I had about 3 hours work on a 'new' piece of sheetmetal. I just picked up a fender for my 'burb that is good but has some dents and needs the typical lower patch. I think I can get it done in a few hours time, improve my skills, and come out at least 100 bucks ahead of the re-pop fender. Luckily there are tons of good parts here in AZ.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

I know the 67-72 Goodmark doors have alot of issues. Two coworkers replaced both of their doors on both trucks and had alot of problems.

The 64-66 doors fit better than the 67-72 and Goodmark quit selling them. We also do not sell the 67-72 doors currently. We have not had too much trouble with the 64-66 repro doors. Even the stock doors from truck to truck are not perfect fits. I went through 4 oem doors on the drivers side door and never really found one that did not leave a large gap on the A pillar. I the passenger sides was fine.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

I thought that was the cause, but the passenger side lined up pretty good.

This is pretty typical with these years. If you take off the drip rail. I do not really have a clue why but the passenger side always comes out better as far as gaps