Wiring thru doors - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

tim m · 11-23-2002, 09:39 AM

What is some of the ways people put their wiring thru doors? I have speaker wire, power window, and door solenoid wires going thru mine.Originally it was taped and going thru a 1/2 inch hole, but I kept getting nicks in the wire. I went to a stereo shop and got these little rubber tubes, they are working okay, but they tend to get crinkled up when you shut the door.

kroodawg · 11-23-2002, 10:40 AM

Tim Jegs has something called Jamb Tac that works like some of the new cars and trucks they are brass connectors that install in the door jamb and only work when the door is closed.
Depending on how many wires you have they are about 25$

tom hand · 11-23-2002, 12:13 PM

I have speakers and doorlocks and I am using simple plastic gromets that snap in a hole after you drill it. They are avalible in many sizes. I taped all the wires together so they look like the rest of the wiring harness on the truck. I used a gromet that is very snug fit on the wires and left a little bend in the wire so it works nicely when you shut the door. I have less than $2 in the whole setup and the speakers still work when you open the doors.

RON WOODGEARD · 11-23-2002, 12:28 PM

I did it the way TOM did his, But after a couple of years the wires started to break. I'm probably going to go to the
"JAMB TAC" I don't know anyone that has them but if the wires don't break It's worth the try, Even though i don't like the idea of the speakers not working when the door is open, I like to open my doors and listen to the stero at times when i'm outside.

RON

71GMC_3/4T · 11-23-2002, 12:45 PM

I had problems with wires breaking in my 74 Monte Carlo. After I spliced the wires back together, I ty-wrapped and taped a piece of fuel line alongside the wires. That caused the wires to bend in a larger arc. Lasted several more years that way. Still worked when I got rid of the car.

Low69CST · 11-23-2002, 08:04 PM

I'm gonna try to get some rubber boots like what is on new cars. I have the fenders off, so i can locate a holes hopefully where they won't be too hard on wires.

guitarman · 11-23-2002, 09:38 PM

I used the accordian pleated rubber ones from a late model truck. They were huge inside.

SCOTI · 11-23-2002, 11:12 PM

I'm currently rewiring a 66 Mustang for a co-worker. For the door wires (speakers & courtesy lights) I bundled them straight, then marked the distance between the door & the jam w/wiring in it's final location & the door open. I pulled the wire back out & slipped a piece of heatshrink over the section that was previously marked & heated it in place. Then I used a second layer of heat shrink over that one to increase the thickness. I ran the wires back through & used the correct style wire grommets to top it off. For this entire project I've used solderless connecters w/the plastic covering removed & used heatshrink to give as much a factory appearance as possible. Looks cleaner IMOP.

Church · 11-24-2002, 04:41 PM

I have those Jamb Tac's. Solid brass contacts. Adjustable from 1/4” to 11/16”. Mounts anywhere on door jamb. Fully insulated. Easy to install. Available for 1, 2, 3, or 4 wire contact. Not on my site yet. 2 contact is $13.04 per door plus shipping.

my new 72 · 11-24-2002, 08:27 PM

The best way to do it is to make the hole in the door post a little bigger than the one on the jam, and run all the wires through one hole on each and use grommets to keep the wires from fraying. In doing this you will allow the wires to slide into the door as the door closes, and slide back out as it opens. This is how I did mine and it works flawlesly everytime. The best thing is there are no bends in the wires between the doors to break the wires over time. I have speaker wires, power lock wires, and power window wires all through the same hole and the bundle is stiff and makes it work a little better, but it doesn't have to be very stiff to work.

tim m · 11-25-2002, 09:23 AM

Churh,
How do you cut them holes for the jamb tack?

Low68 · 11-26-2002, 12:39 AM

Here are some pictures of what I did. I bought a kit from RBs. It cost somewhere around twenty five or thirty dollars. It moves in and out of the door. It was kind of a pain to put on, but i personally think it looks better than the rubber one(beauty is in the eye of the beholder). Anyways, here are some pics.

Low68 · 11-26-2002, 12:40 AM

By the way, I had my doors off when I put them in, so it was easy for me to get a drill in there. Sorry the pictures aren't that great.

Church · 11-26-2002, 05:55 PM

Hey Tim, very carfully!! hehehe Really start w/ a ziz wheel and finish with a drimel or similar tool. The openings will be long oval shaped openings.

gbkwork · 11-27-2002, 01:15 AM

Hey,

Recently I installed PW and PDL in my '72 and spent a fair amount of time deliberating this problem.

I recommend salvaging some stock corrugated rubber conduit from the junkyard...pulled mine off the back doors of a mid-90's Cavalier and made sure to grab the nylon grommets. Cost me $5.

After a half a day with the Dremel the grommets snapped into place on the body side of the door jam and the opposite side fit into the opening I made in the door. It came out great...looks like a new vehicle.

If you're interested I'll snap some pictures.

~GK

11-23-2002, 09:39 AM	#1
tim m Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gilbert Az Posts: 286	Wiring thru doors What is some of the ways people put their wiring thru doors? I have speaker wire, power window, and door solenoid wires going thru mine.Originally it was taped and going thru a 1/2 inch hole, but I kept getting nicks in the wire. I went to a stereo shop and got these little rubber tubes, they are working okay, but they tend to get crinkled up when you shut the door. __________________ 1970 k10 1971 C10 Gilbert Az

11-23-2002, 10:40 AM	#2
kroodawg Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Florida Posts: 42	Tim Jegs has something called Jamb Tac that works like some of the new cars and trucks they are brass connectors that install in the door jamb and only work when the door is closed. Depending on how many wires you have they are about 25$ __________________ 1968 SWB CST

11-23-2002, 12:13 PM	#3
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	I have speakers and doorlocks and I am using simple plastic gromets that snap in a hole after you drill it. They are avalible in many sizes. I taped all the wires together so they look like the rest of the wiring harness on the truck. I used a gromet that is very snug fit on the wires and left a little bend in the wire so it works nicely when you shut the door. I have less than $2 in the whole setup and the speakers still work when you open the doors. __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

11-23-2002, 12:45 PM	#5
71GMC_3/4T Weapons Of Construction Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Colorado, USA Posts: 1,095	I had problems with wires breaking in my 74 Monte Carlo. After I spliced the wires back together, I ty-wrapped and taped a piece of fuel line alongside the wires. That caused the wires to bend in a larger arc. Lasted several more years that way. Still worked when I got rid of the car. __________________ 1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO

11-23-2002, 08:04 PM	#6
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	I'm gonna try to get some rubber boots like what is on new cars. I have the fenders off, so i can locate a holes hopefully where they won't be too hard on wires. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

11-23-2002, 12:28 PM	#4
RON WOODGEARD Resident Young Old Dude ! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 1,948	I did it the way TOM did his, But after a couple of years the wires started to break. I'm probably going to go to the "JAMB TAC" I don't know anyone that has them but if the wires don't break It's worth the try, Even though i don't like the idea of the speakers not working when the door is open, I like to open my doors and listen to the stero at times when i'm outside. RON

11-23-2002, 09:38 PM	#7
guitarman Do it well or don't do it Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Georgia Posts: 457	I used the accordian pleated rubber ones from a late model truck. They were huge inside. __________________ Try to be the person your dog thinks you are. Excellent paint and body site: http://www.autobody101.com/ Visit my Web Site http://home.attbi.com/~agfosteriii

11-23-2002, 11:12 PM	#8
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,947	I'm currently rewiring a 66 Mustang for a co-worker. For the door wires (speakers & courtesy lights) I bundled them straight, then marked the distance between the door & the jam w/wiring in it's final location & the door open. I pulled the wire back out & slipped a piece of heatshrink over the section that was previously marked & heated it in place. Then I used a second layer of heat shrink over that one to increase the thickness. I ran the wires back through & used the correct style wire grommets to top it off. For this entire project I've used solderless connecters w/the plastic covering removed & used heatshrink to give as much a factory appearance as possible. Looks cleaner IMOP. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

11-24-2002, 04:41 PM	#9
Church Carolina Classic Trucks Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The South Posts: 792	I have those Jamb Tac's. Solid brass contacts. Adjustable from 1/4” to 11/16”. Mounts anywhere on door jamb. Fully insulated. Easy to install. Available for 1, 2, 3, or 4 wire contact. Not on my site yet. 2 contact is $13.04 per door plus shipping. __________________

11-24-2002, 08:27 PM	#10
my new 72 faster, faster, faster Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Houston ,Texas ,USA Posts: 1,354	The best way to do it is to make the hole in the door post a little bigger than the one on the jam, and run all the wires through one hole on each and use grommets to keep the wires from fraying. In doing this you will allow the wires to slide into the door as the door closes, and slide back out as it opens. This is how I did mine and it works flawlesly everytime. The best thing is there are no bends in the wires between the doors to break the wires over time. I have speaker wires, power lock wires, and power window wires all through the same hole and the bundle is stiff and makes it work a little better, but it doesn't have to be very stiff to work. __________________ I'm going to Law School, wanna debate? It's good practice.

11-25-2002, 09:23 AM	#11
tim m Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gilbert Az Posts: 286	Churh, How do you cut them holes for the jamb tack? __________________ 1970 k10 1971 C10 Gilbert Az

11-26-2002, 12:39 AM	#12
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	Here are some pictures of what I did. I bought a kit from RBs. It cost somewhere around twenty five or thirty dollars. It moves in and out of the door. It was kind of a pain to put on, but i personally think it looks better than the rubber one(beauty is in the eye of the beholder). Anyways, here are some pics. Attached Images __________________ Build Thread

11-26-2002, 12:40 AM	#13
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	By the way, I had my doors off when I put them in, so it was easy for me to get a drill in there. Sorry the pictures aren't that great. Attached Images __________________ Build Thread

11-26-2002, 05:55 PM	#14
Church Carolina Classic Trucks Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The South Posts: 792	Hey Tim, very carfully!! hehehe Really start w/ a ziz wheel and finish with a drimel or similar tool. The openings will be long oval shaped openings. __________________

11-27-2002, 01:15 AM	#15
gbkwork Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 39	Conduit Hey, Recently I installed PW and PDL in my '72 and spent a fair amount of time deliberating this problem. I recommend salvaging some stock corrugated rubber conduit from the junkyard...pulled mine off the back doors of a mid-90's Cavalier and made sure to grab the nylon grommets. Cost me $5. After a half a day with the Dremel the grommets snapped into place on the body side of the door jam and the opposite side fit into the opening I made in the door. It came out great...looks like a new vehicle. If you're interested I'll snap some pictures. ~GK __________________ '72 Custom LWB 383 ci, Lunati 213 / 219 cam (60101L), 2.02/1.6 heads, Crane roller rockers, HPC coated ramhorns, FIRST TPI, '90 Corvette ECM, , Built 700R4, 3.73 Eaton Posi 12-bolt, Magnaflow dual exhaust, PW, Keyless DL, ECE Hidden Hitch, New chrome all around, 17" Torq Thrust II's, 255/50 & 275/50 Nittos, ART airbags, Rick's custom tank w/ custom in-bed filler, '02 Silverado seats, Rod Doors headliner / A-pillar covers and door panels.



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