Attempted to fire my motor for the first time - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Low69CST · 11-23-2002, 08:11 PM

I took my first shot at it today. It was also the first time I had juice through my painless kit. I was suprised the thing didn't burst in flames. But I did have a problem. My truck would cut off as soon as I took the key went from the start spot to the on spot. I wired the truck exactly like it showed in the book. To get around it, I wired my HEI straight to the battery. The problem didn't make that much of a difference because my carberator was gummed up (an old Holley my dad had). So it would only run on the gas we poured down the carb. I did get to hear it run for about 5-6 seconds at a time. Its alot meaner sounding than I thought it would. Also, its loud as hell. I have my 3" duals and 40 series flowmasters. I definately won't be able to speed much. If the cops can't see me they'll hear my ass!

Anybody had a simular problem with the ignition cutting off on the ON position? Might be a bad switch, but I wouldn't think so, worked when i took the truck apart, but then again, that was like in '96.

tom hand · 11-23-2002, 08:21 PM

Have you checked it with a meter or test light? That will tell you in 2 seconds if it is a wiring problem or a bad switch. Good Luck

Blackhawkdc · 11-23-2002, 08:24 PM

sounds like you may have it wired for the old points style ignition?? Check and see if yuou have a full 12.6volts at the distributor. That sounds like what's happening. HEI won't run on the 8.5 volts or so that the old points system ran on, and whne you are in the start position, the old style is usually wired to provide full system voltage only when cranking, then drops to 8.5 volts or so through the resistor when the key is in the run position.

Low69CST · 11-23-2002, 08:38 PM

I'm pretty sure i have it wired right for HEI. Its a new painless wiring kit. I don't have the ballast resister or anything. Theres a pink wire from the ignition switch, the instructions say to run that straight to the batt terminal. I guess it must be the switch, I don't know else to try on it. I'll get under it with a test light next time I can.

cableguy0 · 11-23-2002, 08:52 PM

test light isnt gonna help ya if its a low voltage problem. it barely takes 1 volt of electricity to light a test light u need a voltmeter to make sure there is a full 12 volts going to the dizzy.

bigjimzlll · 11-23-2002, 09:00 PM

becareful....you need to break in the cam and lifters..its not real good to stop and start(unless its an emergency)..get the fuel problem fixed and wiring...get it running and keep it above 2000 rpm for 20 minutes..varying the rpms between 2000 and 2500..keep a hose handy incase it overheats...than after the 20 minutes ..change the oil... and your good to go

cableguy0 · 11-23-2002, 09:03 PM

good point big jim i didnt even think about that. totally slipped my mind. but yea dont fire it until u know it can stay running for at least 20 minutes above 2000 rpm otherwise that bump stick wont be bumpin too much at all

**68 Stepside** · 11-23-2002, 09:05 PM

I thought about the ballast resistor problem as well, but you don't have one. Is it possible that the painless wiring could be messed up? If the wire has voltage when cranking, it might be that you have the wrong wire going to the distributor...I don't know....just trying to stir up thoughts. And as bigjim said, it's not good to shut the engine off, with a fresh cam. Soak the holley in a bucket of carb cleaner if you have to, just to get it to suck fuel.

Good luck.

TJ

Low69CST · 11-24-2002, 12:59 AM

We were trying to figure out why it wouldn't stay running. I've put everything new and different in the truck, so there were alot of variables to check why it w ouldn't run. Turned out to be the carb. We've got it apart and soaking in a bucket right now. I'm gonna pick up a rebuild kit this week. As soon as we get that fixed we're gunna run in the cam. The more I think about the electrical problem, the more I think it has to be the switch. We know the pink wire is putting enough juice to the distributor because the motor fires fine when you crank the motor, but it doesn't get juice when its in the ON position. The only thing that determine's when the wire gets juice is the switch, I'll try to replace that. If it doesn't cure it, then its time to start callin tech lines!

cali_surfer · 11-24-2002, 01:42 AM

Just to throw in my input..... for what its worth.... I installed a Painless kit on my truck. Everything works great. One thing though, I figured since I spent the cash for the new wires, I went and bought all new switches, etc. so I wouldn't have to deal with anymore electrical gremlins. I wired up all the wiring according to the instruction manual, except for one thing. I changed the main feed wire that feeds the fuse panel from the 10 gauge that comes stock to an 8 gauge. So, I guess what I'm trying to say, it might be worth it to go buy a new switch and try it out. You can't really afford trying to test stuff out on that brand new motor. Like everyone else has said, you gotta keep ur new baby running for 20 mins to break in the cam.

11-23-2002, 08:11 PM	#1
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	Attempted to fire my motor for the first time I took my first shot at it today. It was also the first time I had juice through my painless kit. I was suprised the thing didn't burst in flames. But I did have a problem. My truck would cut off as soon as I took the key went from the start spot to the on spot. I wired the truck exactly like it showed in the book. To get around it, I wired my HEI straight to the battery. The problem didn't make that much of a difference because my carberator was gummed up (an old Holley my dad had). So it would only run on the gas we poured down the carb. I did get to hear it run for about 5-6 seconds at a time. Its alot meaner sounding than I thought it would. Also, its loud as hell. I have my 3" duals and 40 series flowmasters. I definately won't be able to speed much. If the cops can't see me they'll hear my ass! Anybody had a simular problem with the ignition cutting off on the ON position? Might be a bad switch, but I wouldn't think so, worked when i took the truck apart, but then again, that was like in '96. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

11-23-2002, 08:21 PM	#2
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	Have you checked it with a meter or test light? That will tell you in 2 seconds if it is a wiring problem or a bad switch. Good Luck __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

11-23-2002, 08:24 PM	#3
Blackhawkdc 440 american Horses Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Anoka, MN USA Posts: 470	sounds like you may have it wired for the old points style ignition?? Check and see if yuou have a full 12.6volts at the distributor. That sounds like what's happening. HEI won't run on the 8.5 volts or so that the old points system ran on, and whne you are in the start position, the old style is usually wired to provide full system voltage only when cranking, then drops to 8.5 volts or so through the resistor when the key is in the run position. __________________ Seth Petro 1969 Chev Short Step 425hp 350, TH400, big tires, fast truck 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free) 1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale May America bless God, and may God bless America

11-23-2002, 08:38 PM	#4
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	I'm pretty sure i have it wired right for HEI. Its a new painless wiring kit. I don't have the ballast resister or anything. Theres a pink wire from the ignition switch, the instructions say to run that straight to the batt terminal. I guess it must be the switch, I don't know else to try on it. I'll get under it with a test light next time I can. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

11-23-2002, 08:52 PM	#5
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	test light isnt gonna help ya if its a low voltage problem. it barely takes 1 volt of electricity to light a test light u need a voltmeter to make sure there is a full 12 volts going to the dizzy. __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

11-23-2002, 09:00 PM	#6
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	becareful....you need to break in the cam and lifters..its not real good to stop and start(unless its an emergency)..get the fuel problem fixed and wiring...get it running and keep it above 2000 rpm for 20 minutes..varying the rpms between 2000 and 2500..keep a hose handy incase it overheats...than after the 20 minutes ..change the oil... and your good to go __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

11-23-2002, 09:03 PM	#7
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	good point big jim i didnt even think about that. totally slipped my mind. but yea dont fire it until u know it can stay running for at least 20 minutes above 2000 rpm otherwise that bump stick wont be bumpin too much at all __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

11-23-2002, 09:05 PM	#8
68 Stepside huh? Join Date: May 2000 Location: Washington, Illinois Posts: 5,690	I thought about the ballast resistor problem as well, but you don't have one. Is it possible that the painless wiring could be messed up? If the wire has voltage when cranking, it might be that you have the wrong wire going to the distributor...I don't know....just trying to stir up thoughts. And as bigjim said, it's not good to shut the engine off, with a fresh cam. Soak the holley in a bucket of carb cleaner if you have to, just to get it to suck fuel. Good luck. TJ __________________ Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay

11-24-2002, 12:59 AM	#9
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	We were trying to figure out why it wouldn't stay running. I've put everything new and different in the truck, so there were alot of variables to check why it w ouldn't run. Turned out to be the carb. We've got it apart and soaking in a bucket right now. I'm gonna pick up a rebuild kit this week. As soon as we get that fixed we're gunna run in the cam. The more I think about the electrical problem, the more I think it has to be the switch. We know the pink wire is putting enough juice to the distributor because the motor fires fine when you crank the motor, but it doesn't get juice when its in the ON position. The only thing that determine's when the wire gets juice is the switch, I'll try to replace that. If it doesn't cure it, then its time to start callin tech lines! __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

11-24-2002, 01:42 AM	#10
cali_surfer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 1,136	Just to throw in my input..... for what its worth.... I installed a Painless kit on my truck. Everything works great. One thing though, I figured since I spent the cash for the new wires, I went and bought all new switches, etc. so I wouldn't have to deal with anymore electrical gremlins. I wired up all the wiring according to the instruction manual, except for one thing. I changed the main feed wire that feeds the fuse panel from the 10 gauge that comes stock to an 8 gauge. So, I guess what I'm trying to say, it might be worth it to go buy a new switch and try it out. You can't really afford trying to test stuff out on that brand new motor. Like everyone else has said, you gotta keep ur new baby running for 20 mins to break in the cam. __________________ My engine is stock... trust me ;o)



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