Gone for a while, another big problem

[SteelMohawk]

My truck's temp gauge has been reading hot for about a week now, maybe more, but it was in the shop for a while, and I think it started "overheating" before then. I made sure there were always liquid in it, and it didn't seem to lose much if any coolant. That was until last night.
I had to drive about 2 hours roundtrip yesterday, and couldnt get an alternate vehicle. when I got to my destination, I heard boiling/bubbly coolant sound. It was strange though because my temp guage wasn't as high as it normally was. Anyways I put some more coolant, because it finally started losing a fair amount(.5 to 1 gallon) of coolant. on the ride home I knew it was going to be a headache. about 10 miles from home I heard a pop(pretty sure it was my temp guage which I found later to be destroyed) and luckily as it stalled out, I was only a little walk from a 7-11 which sells coolant. I needed a lot as it all was sprayed over the front quarter panels and inside of my engine compartment.

I originally thought this problem was going to be my water pump. THis morning I go out, put about 1.5 gallons of coolant in it started it up, to look for leaks. It started, and was ok the first time. I shut it off and my spill over resvervoir was filling up, again with lots of air(i think) in the process. I dumped that reservoir because it was dirty(i think it was from the resevoir as much as anything. I squeezed the radiator hoses, and started seeing some leaking from the front of the engine, and at one of the hose/radiator links. When I started it again, for the first time today the exhaust manifold were steaming. Obviously fluid(coolant) is hitting the exhaust manifolds. Is this a tell-tale sign of a blown head gasket? if so how do I check for a cracked head, if i decide to do this myself? I would really like to do it myself after just spending $900 in the shop. and missing the best month of the year without my toy.

[RED72blazer]

what's the oil look like?

[SteelMohawk]

the oil on the dipstick is a little low, but looks normal. Should I do an oil change?

[RED72blazer]

no, don't do an oil change. I was wondering if any coolant had got to the oil(it would look like chocolate milk). It does kinda sound like blown head gaskets or cracked heads...not good either way.

Have you ever disassembled the top end of an engine?

[SteelMohawk]

Originally Posted by RED72blazer

no, don't do an oil change. I was wondering if any coolant had got to the oil(it would look like chocolate milk). It does kinda sound like blown head gaskets or cracked heads...not good either way.

Have you ever disassembled the top end of an engine?

No, but my neighbor has. There is definitely leaking from my cylinder head bolts. I had chocolate milk in my coolant reservoir. where do I look for cylinder head cracks. Mine are aluminum. the PO really didnt do much right at all.

[RED72blazer]

you will need to pull the heads and take them to the machine shop.

[SteelMohawk]

anybody have any recomendations for head gaskets? are the multi-layerd steel ones much better than the others? I have aluminum heads so is there any particular materials I should look at? SHould I replace my bolts while i am at it?

[SteelMohawk]

please help or it will end up in an ebay auction. I guess I should mention that it has rocker rust and driver floor rust as well.

[Chevyman63]

I agree with RED72blazer, I would pull the heads, take them to a local engine/machine shop and have them checked for problems. While they are off, I would have them gone through. I would also ask them about what type of head gaskets and weather or not you should replace the bolts.

Another idea would be to post this in the engine & drivetrain section, there are a lot of very wise dudes here.

[Jtrux]

I would replace the bolts, a good set will run 60 bucks from ARP, well worth it. The heads may or may not be alright, I doubt they are warped or anything but they might be and would need resurfacing (about 100 for resurfacing, some more for disassemble and assemlbly or depending on if they found anything else wrong ).

What heads are they buy the way and what are the specs on the motor. I HIGHLY recommend an aftermarket guage so you can see what the exact temp is. Also if the motor is hopped up a little and/or bored over it will tend to run a little warm. Anywhere from 180 up to 220 is exceptable. Some will say that 220 is too warm but it's not especially if the motor is rebuilt. As a matter a fact from my previous research is preferable to have a motor run around 220.

[RED72blazer]

I'd go with the arp bolts as well. I've never used anything but Fel-pro gasket set's. you'll need to have the heads pressure checked by the machine shop. I would also replace the guides and possibly do a vavle job.

[SteelMohawk]

Originally Posted by Jtrux

I would replace the bolts, a good set will run 60 bucks from ARP, well worth it. The heads may or may not be alright, I doubt they are warped or anything but they might be and would need resurfacing (about 100 for resurfacing, some more for disassemble and assemlbly or depending on if they found anything else wrong ).

What heads are they buy the way and what are the specs on the motor. I HIGHLY recommend an aftermarket guage so you can see what the exact temp is. Also if the motor is hopped up a little and/or bored over it will tend to run a little warm. Anywhere from 180 up to 220 is exceptable. Some will say that 220 is too warm but it's not especially if the motor is rebuilt. As a matter a fact from my previous research is preferable to have a motor run around 220.

I really dont know what the PO did to the engine. I asked for paperwork about 30 times and never got it. I should have known then not to deal with this guy. BUT, they are edlebrock aluminum heads. As far as i know the only thing adjusted has been the cam and the head, but I will find out tomorrow. I will definitely take the cylinder heads to a shop and have them check it out, if not do any work. thanks guy. I imagine the Beast will be out for a bit so I wont rush anything. I was looking at FEL-PRO and MR Gasket's gaskets. so I will take all recomendations into consideration. IF i cant steal my roomies' camera I will take some pics.

Is there any good way to cover my block, once the heads are off? any good way to stop rust? Anything I should look for by way of blown piston rings or the such?

[70rs/ss]

Aluminum doesn't crack usually unless it is run hot without water, so you might get lucky? Pull the intake and heads, the MLS gasket is about the best out there since aluminum and steel heat and cool differently, you need a gasket that'll handle it. Sounds like maybe a blown head gasket, water level going up is a sign that compression is getting into the coolant, and would make the water dirty. Pull it apart and the gasket will be pretty obvious, and a crack might be as well. As for the initial problem, maybe a thermostat. Never trust a 40 year old guage to do anything but sit there, a $50 set of three guages would have alerted you early on, but if you drive it once you think there is an issue, you'd still be in this deal, just fix it remember this, learn from it and go on, experience is expensive sometimes. Good Luck.