why does my battery die so quick

[drewfever1020]

iv been wondering why my battery dies so quick!
iv cheked hte alternator but its working fine, what can it be?

[hugger6933]

Do you have a glove box light? it could be staying on How quick does it run down? Jim

[WorkinLonghorn]

How old is the battery? They only last for a few years and if you have discharged it a few times,it just won't have much reserve.
Also if it's the kind with caps for access to the electrolite,you need to make sure the levels are up to the little ring in there.Use distilled water.
If it's in good shape,maybe you have a current leak.With the key off,disconnect a battery lead and brush it against the post and see if there is ANY sparking.(there shouldn
t be).

[DB Smith]

Could be a leak (short) if your battery's good. I'd check the hot circuits first ( the ones that are hot with the ignition off, like headlights, radio, etc.)

Once I had a leak right where the positive battery cable was rubbing on the frame on its way to the starter.

[cparman]

Check to see if you have a battery draw. The way you do this is:
Disconnect either battery cable, and look carefully to see if there is any spark when touching the cable end to the battery post.
THE BETTER WAY TO DO THIS IS :
Buy a test light. they can be bought at most auto parts stores fo $10.00 or so for a cheap one.
Disconnect either battery cable, and leave the other connected. Take the test light, and at the aligator clip end, connect that to the battery. take the ice pick end and connect it to the battery cable end. See if the test light lights up. If it does then you have a battery draw. The next step is to remove the fuses from the fuse box one at a time, and see if the light goes out. IF IT DOES THEN THE BATTERY DRAW IS IN THAT CIRCUIT. At that point you will need to know what is in that circuit, and disconect each load ( electrical device ) until the test light goes out again. hope this helps

[Longhorn Man]

to add to this, you're better off to do this on the NEG post. It'll worlk on either post, but in the name of safety, do it on the NEG side so you don't arc out the wire/tool.
Before popping fuses out, you'll need to make sure your dome light is not on. (door open)
Also, when popping fuses out, remember to unplug the horn relay (common battery drain if the horn doesn't work) and unplug the voltage regulator, and the two prong plug on the alt too.
To it all one at a time while someone tells you if the light chainges on the test light.
A late model stereo is expected to draw an amp or two even when turned off. This may light up the test light, but it'd be a dim orange at best. You are looking for a bright white light on the tester.

[LONGHAIR]

Yes, in the name of safety...do this on the ground wire, from the frame/engine end. Disconnecting from the battery is easier, but it can blow-up the battery if there is a significant draw. The "spark" would be right over the battery. If you have ever blown one up (or seen it happen) you wouldn't mess around with this.

[rcheesem]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

to add to this, you're better off to do this on the NEG post. It'll worlk on either post, but in the name of safety, do it on the NEG side so you don't arc out the wire/tool.
Before popping fuses out, you'll need to make sure your dome light is not on. (door open)
Also, when popping fuses out, remember to unplug the horn relay (common battery drain if the horn doesn't work) and unplug the voltage regulator, and the two prong plug on the alt too.
To it all one at a time while someone tells you if the light chainges on the test light.
A late model stereo is expected to draw an amp or two even when turned off. This may light up the test light, but it'd be a dim orange at best. You are looking for a bright white light on the tester.

Longhorn Man,

Where is the horn relay located (picture maybe)? I think I'm having that same issue with the battery draw. My horn currently does not work, but when I mess with the button I hear a clicking under the dash. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rick

[Longhorn Man]

well, the clicking is the relay, and the fact that you hear this, means your relay is working, so this isn't the problem.
The relay is a small silver square/rectangle piece bolted to the firewall on the inside right beside the fuse box. it has a 3 wire plug with a red, green, and I think black wire in the plug.
It sounds like your horn problem is under the hood... wire or actual horn issue.

[IronX]

if its the origional alternator like mine the relays could be stuck in the charge position. it had an external voltage regulator by the drivers side headlight might be a good place to start..

IronX

[Longhorn321]

Originally Posted by drewfever1020

iv been wondering why my battery dies so quick!
iv cheked hte alternator but its working fine, what can it be?

I pretty much agree with all that's been said except for the late model radios drawing 1-2 amps...I think that is waaay too much. As a rule, I like to see less than 50mA which is 20x less than 1 amp. 100-200mA would kill a battery overnight (Maybe what LonghornMan meant?). The test light trick is good (and cheap) but if you want to know exactly, you can buy a digital multimeter fairly cheaply too. Also, you didn't tell us how quick. If it's overnight, a simple way to see if it's your battery or a draw is to just disconnect your neg. cable and see if it still goes dead overnight. If it does then you prolly need a battery or it needs to be serviced as WorkinLonghorn said, if not then do some further diagnosis.

[rcheesem]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

well, the clicking is the relay, and the fact that you hear this, means your relay is working, so this isn't the problem.
The relay is a small silver square/rectangle piece bolted to the firewall on the inside right beside the fuse box. it has a 3 wire plug with a red, green, and I think black wire in the plug.
It sounds like your horn problem is under the hood... wire or actual horn issue.

Thank you, Sir.

Rick

[Longhorn Man]

longhorn321...you are correct, I had a brain fart.