good cam/head selection for mild 350 build

[Slik69]

I have not decided on a head choice yet, but want some ideas of what guys are running. I am looking for torque and may be pulling a small trailer in the near future for camping/jet skis etc. Just want some pulling power. I also want a good sound. I am looking at a set of camel humps with 2.02-1.60 valves. Have not made up my mind on head choice. I managed to find a much debated high nickel block. I had it bored .040 overbore and it's ready for a build

The heads that are currently on my truck are 462624 castings. I have read on the net that these are junk. Another alternative I am considering are the world heads. Anyone use these.

What are some other good factory casting that will work well with the cams you can recommend. The truck weighs 3780 empty. Was kind of surprised at how light it is. One guy told me it's the weight of a chevelle etc.

Anyway, a friend of mine tole me I did not need 2.02's and that 1.94's is all I need. Please advise for those that have put these combos together. Lastly, my truck currently has what I believe is a 327 based on the very small balancer. It drives good but is very tired. I think a 350 would provide more initial torque correct.. which should in turn see a savings in MPG.

Thanks in advance.

[hugger6933]

Vortec heads Comp cam about 268-272 advertised duration= lots o' power! Jim

[kcjones]

I agree with hugger for your setup, it'd be perfect. I've got some parts in the garage that'll be installing in the next 2-3 weeks that may be a little less torquey/more hp than you're looking for, but I'll throw it down on the bottom in case it's helpful. I'd bet the world products S/R torquer with a 272-278 would be awesome. Good idle, good torque, and a littttttle more rumble and hp than the vortec/268. Although I'd still go vortec/268 if I was hauling/towing a lot.

One piece of advice I hear all the time: don't go too big. It's easy to do, it's fun to do, but you'll be happier if the get the right combination.

My poor decision making:

Looking for 375-400 HP, 375-400 ft-lbs
RPM range 1500-6000 (I won't spin it past 5500, though)
3.42 gears/29" tires
TH400/2400 stall
4000 lbs (it's a 3/4 ton)
350
edelbrock RPM alum heads (2.02/1.60 valves, 64cc chambers, 170cc runners)
cam 234/234 @ .050, .488 lift (I know it's probably a little much, but I love lope!)
edelbrock RPM intake
9.2:1 or so compression
headers, full length, 1.625" primaries/3" collectors/2.5" exhaust/2.5 40 series flowmasters
700 cfm holley 4160

[Slik69]

This is about where I want to be compression wise. I'd like to drive the truck daily too if I want to. Times are getting tough, so will drive what's paid for already.

Are the vortex heads all what they are cracked up to be. What is the advertised duration on the cam you mentioned above. Also, let me rephrase.. towing will not be the only thing I do, but whatever combo I put together, I'd like to be able to tow without issue.

I am not sure what gear ratio I have, but I can tell you that at 25mph, the truck is already shifting into to 3rd gear. Pretty soon in my opinion. This with 33" tires in rear. Sound familiar to anyone. Before I get through intersection I'm already done shifting. I have TH350 trans.

[68Stepbed]

Well, I have a stock GMGoodwrench 350 engine that I installed a Comp XE262 cam and roller rockers in. The cam sounds GREAT! I initially wanted the XE268, but with my basically stock heads and stock torque converter, the Comp guys talked me down to the 262. I'm very happy with the results. I honestly never thought a cam would make so much difference. The heads on my engine are similar to 882 castings, so they are decent heads, but not great heads.

The Vortec heads are amazing. My dad has a 350HO/330hp crate engine in his 87 Monte Carlo SS. The cam is barely bigger than an RV cam and has the Vortec heads. This engine will absoutely scream. The World heads are decent heads, but people I've talked about them say they are extremely heavy. Much heavier than original cast heads. The Dart Iron Eagle heads are great choices though. I've heard nothing but good things about the Dart iron heads.

[hotrod 80]

I was gonna say 262 . I had the vortec 268 combo and it was great , but the cam lope in a DD "wears" on me .

[Slik69]

Thanks guys. Kcjones, you mention similar to 882 heads, do you know the casting no., and yes I agree too much lope will get old on a daily driver. My truck is pretty solid and drives great (better than most cars) and I'd hae to ruin the ride listening to the cam all the time.. but I do want a little noticeable idle. Will the 262 cam give me this. Sounds like the power with this cam will not be a issue.

Also, if I am reading this correctly, it sounds like the 268 cam would be good choice with the vortec heads.. but is the 268 cam the one that has excessive lope.

-Roller rockers only correct, not roller cam. Do these alone make any difference. I believe the heads have to be set up with guide plates though right?

I ask about head casting no's because I have a core yard close by where I can basically go and pick up any heads casting I am looking for. My dad has 882's on his 400 and the car has a lot of torque.. and he often brags about how GOOD gas mileage he gets with those heads.

This brings me to another question, what cc should I be aiming for on my heads. I don't want to be forced to use 91 octane all the time.. but would prefer it to be my choice whenever I did buy it.

Thanks guys.. you are helping me quit a bit.

[hugger6933]

Thge 400 that you spoke of should have torqe. thats what they were built for. What did the general put them in? Trucks, station wagons, impalas ,caprices and just about any other road hog chevy built. Next, the 262 would be a great choice. The vortecs have been proved time and time agian in dyno rooms all over. The chamber size is 64 cc's compared to 76 [most likely] in the heads you have now. That means a bump in compression. The raise should not be enough to demand prem gas. Most test I have read about show about 30 horsepower increase just from heads alone. I have a vortec headed small block in the corner of my that was built for an s-10 project I did. It has flat top pistons a cam in the 265 range rpm air gap. That was a mean little motor. I didn't build it but, I did install the vortecs. Trust me you should love them. Jim

[Slik69]

Now we're gettin somewhere.. and I'm getting the answers I was hoping to get. The reason I am asking these questions is because I will be pulling the trigger soon to buy the rest of my parts. I will be using a cast flatop piston by Sealed Power. This is what my machinist uses and what he's had best luck with. He does have a piston that's coated.. (Speed Pro) but for what I'm doing he mentioned the piston I am going with is ok. He can get whatever, but he says he doesn't like hypertectics pistons for whatever reason. I just don't want Silvolites. They look/feel heavy.

Next, with the heads, I am looking at possibly purchasing a nice set of mildly ported/polished camel humps with 2.02-1.60 valves. He wants $500 for them and they have been redone with new valves guidepaltes, new seals/springs and ready to bolt on. Regarding the vortecs are we talking 906 or 062.. or does it even matter. This same guy has a set of vortecs that have been cleaned up and has upgraded valve seats (mentioned to old ones were cracked) for $150. Hmmm really kind of makes you wonder not about why so cheap, but why are newer supposedly superior head would be much cheaper. Could the difference be in the valves. I still cant see the camels being more.. unless it's just nostalgia and they are ported/polished nicely.

I could also buy an intake (regular performer) and have him do port match with the camel heads. Any gain there.. and what would be the real story running the camels vs the vortecs with the 262 cam and all other parts (intake, carb etc) being the same. Any real noticeable diff?

Sorry to keep asking so many q's, but the quicker I can get this all figured out I will be building this motor for my truck.

Lastly, I have been around the world with this truck mechanically since purchasing it to the point where I've wanted to get rid of it, but it's a motor away from being a great pick-up. It ran like CRAP when I got it. It DRANK gas like you wouldn't believe. Cyl#5 was not firing as well as other issues. Since then, Ive switched over to HEI, bought a new dist cap, new wires, changed the vacumm modulator that was not working, bought a refurbished Qjet carb, fixed all exhaust leaks and changed the rotted pipes underneath with new stainless steel up to the exhaust manifold (the new motor will have headers), and paid a guy $20 to set the timing/carb properly and she runs like a top now and gets probably better gas mileage than my V6 honda accord.. SERIOUSLY. This is with me driving it too, not being delicate and watching the needle constantly. The needle literally doesn't move. The motor is very very tired though and there is some blow-by. I have very low oil pressure at idle. I'll drive it until I am ready to drop other motor in.

My thinking is a fresh motor would be that much better. I am not trying to build a racer, but want a strong dependable motor that sounds good.

sorry long but the information does help me narrow down the combo I am looking for. oh and with the vortecs a different manifold is necessary right. I have to buy an itake still either way.

[OLDIRON69]

I had a set of double humps with Crane roller tip rockers. They were ported and polished, the studs need to be srew in, not pressed in. If you want decent mileage I'd go with the Vortec heads, I have heard nothing but good about them and they are inexpensive.

[hugger6933]

Yes, you will need a vortec intake as the bolt pattern is differrent. The old camel humps are good but the vortecs are better. The port design is such that you still get more flow with 1.94 intake valve than the older head with 2.02. The casting is illrelivant two different casting numbers but the same head and flow. Like I said above these heads are worth 30-40- HP ! Jim

[Slik69]

Ok were going with the vortecs.. they are plentiful and cheap. Can you now explain if there is a problem with installing them on an early block. Should be the same.. what about bolts. Does everything bolt right up.

Also, I've done some reading on these heads and it says they crack at the seat. Is this a problem or a simple fix with the head guy. One guy also showed me a crack on a ser that I swear I did not see.. but he was telling me that it was there between the combustion chambers. It was just a tiny tiny line that did not look like anything harmful to me. What causes the seat issue and the hairline crack beteen chambers.

Other than that I hear they work good stock without doing anything to them. Also should I be set up with screw-ins and guides, or will the adjustable rockers work ok. Any difference in performance.

Were lettin her rip.. I'm on the hunt for vortecs now.

[kcjones]

I'm not an expert, but I'm hearing questions on roller rocker/lifters...Roller rockers are expensive and don't [by themselves] add any power. The purpose of roller rockers is to reduce the wear in your valvetrain, increase lifetime of pushrods/valves/springs, and allow you to run 1.6 ratio arms without any other mods. Roller tip rockers are designed to increase life just like rollers, but don't add any power. Both roller rockers and roller tip rockers can give you a few extra rpm in regards to valve train staying together and not getting as much valve float (so keeping power at 6000+ rpm).

Roller cams are great, though - extra $ but multiple advantages: more rpm/less valve float. higher lift possibilities. more agressive lift profile without sacrificing valvetrain wear. longer life of valves/springs/rockers. If you were going to choose between roller cam/lifters and roller rockers, go with the cam.

On vortec heads, they'll bolt on to your gen I small block, it's just the intake that's different. I'd buy a bolt kit regardless of what head you eventually buy, don't reuse head bolts from a tired engine.

Something I just read on Chevy High Perf: "For you junkyard hunters, be forewarned that some ¾- and 1-ton trucks came with Vortec heads equipped with a specially hardened exhaust seat that kills low- and mid-lift flow. Casting number 10239906 should be avoided"

See this same article ( linky ) for answers on the guideplate rocker thing.

Good luck!

[68Stepbed]

Something else to remember. Vortec heads use self-aligning rocker arms. If you get a set of heads from a wrecking yard, make sure you pick up the rockers also. If you decide to go with roller rockers, just remeber to get the self-aligning kind.

[lil blue]

Originally Posted by kcjones

Looking for 375-400 HP, 375-400 ft-lbs
RPM range 1500-6000 (I won't spin it past 5500, though)
3.42 gears/29" tires
TH400/2400 stall
4000 lbs (it's a 3/4 ton)
350
edelbrock RPM alum heads (2.02/1.60 valves, 64cc chambers, 170cc runners)
cam 234/234 @ .050, .488 lift (I know it's probably a little much, but I love lope!)
edelbrock RPM intake
9.2:1 or so compression
headers, full length, 1.625" primaries/3" collectors/2.5" exhaust/2.5 40 series flowmasters
700 cfm holley 4160

did u u get that much horse power wuth this setup?

[jgreene0717]

I had the same XE-262 Comp Cam in my old goodwrench 350 and it ran great in my 71 before I swapped to the big block.