First Restoration attempt, what can you share with me...

[KrazyKevin]

Hey guys/gals. Been lurking for a while now and finally bought my first 72 chevy swb thanks to a member here on the forums. As I'm new to this I've seen my dad restore a few trucks when I was younger. As a newbie to the restoration world, I'd like to ask you "old pros" a few questions about when you got started.

I live inside the city limits now, and space is limited. Basically I'll be working in a 1 1/2 car garage with another shop I can take pieces to and work on. What are 1 or 2 things that you wish you would have done differently when you took on your first project? Any tool you ran across months down the line that you wished you would of gotten earlier? Different welding machine? Bigger air compressor? Engine hoists, small garage cherry picker type equipment?

I love tinkering on trucks and 4wheelers and I'm really looking forward to tackling my first 72 truck. I wanting it to be a show piece. But, being my first truck, I don't know if I should shoot for that status right away. Maybe shoot for just a real cleaned up daily driver for now, then the show quality truck on down the road. I don't want to sell myself short though either and not be happy with the outcome.

Anyways, sorry for rambling, just very excited. Please share with me a few beginner tips so I don't get swamped when I have pieces strolled across the garage and yard and the wife is wondering how this truck will ever look like the pics I showed her on how it's "Gonna Look" when I'm done.

Thanks again

Kevin

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by KrazyKevin

But, being my first truck, I don't know if I should shoot for that status right away. Maybe shoot for just a real cleaned up daily driver for now, then the show quality truck on down the road. I don't want to sell myself short though either and not be happy with the outcome.



Kevin

You've hit the nail on the head.

DON'T TEAR IT DOWN TO THE FRAME. A lot of people get so overwhelmed they quit. Keep it drivable, do sections at a time that you can complete in a weekend or a few weeks. Enjoy it for a while, make sure you "love it," then go for the full blown restore in a couple/few years.

[special-K]

I agree.Keep the scope simple,too.Things can be added or improved later.It`s good to envision your final goal,but consider what is a priority.People get too spread out and overwelmed.You can do some things later or you may economize on somethings and upgrade once you`re through the bulk of the expense and time spent.Just make sure you take everything into account that will be done later incase there needs to be a provision made or whatever.

[my67chevytruck]

I'm no quiter, just slow going.. I agree, do sections at a time that you can complete in a weekend.

[jorgensensc]

I also agree! Just do small sections at a time, make it a nice driver, then when you have the room/ money, buy a second truck, do a full blown frame off if you want. When that one is done, decide if you want to drive it. If so, sell the old truck, or blow it apart for a frame off. Always buy Quality, and not cheap. Buy the best for your budget and what you want to spend. However, don't buy cheap because your budget is cheap. If you have to save for another month to buy better quality, do it. You will be happier later. I'll give you an example. I am trying o figure out sound deadener for the burb. I have priced out some of the best stuff at about 800.00 for the burb. Now I want the best, but know that I am not a big stereo guy, so I don't need the best, I don't have that kind of money in the budget, and it just seems like alot of money to me. To some sound guys it is a drop in the bucket, but it seems like too much for me. However I'm not so cheap that I'm going to go down and put tar paper on the floor either. I will find a nice middle of the road alternative.
The last thing i will say is figure a budget, then double that number, then stick to that number. If you don't you will end up with a 10,000.00 frame and no body work, no truck, and no money left for paint. JMHO, hope it helps some.
Shawn

[LuckyHenriksen]

If you take the front suspension apart, make sure you get the alignment pegs back into their holes on the lower A arms

[Ackattack]

I would also agree to keep it in a driveable condition.

I pretty much restored my 72 GMC keeping it on the road most of the time (out of necessity) and it was a great learning experience.

On my 68 I tore it all the way down to the frame. I've been laboring on it for going on a year and a half and I've NEVER driven it. I'll finish it, but it seems like a lot of work for no reward (as of yet ).

The other bit of advice is don't settle on parts because of price. For example, don't get the cheapy suspsion parts like ball joints to save a few dollars, you'll end up replacing them sooner and it just causes you headaches and more work later.

Another example.....if you know you want 20" wheels, don't go get 17" wheels just cause they were a good deal.....cause eventually you'll still get the 20" wheels and have spent the money on the 17s.

Do it once, do it right.

[cdowns]

so as not to get in over your head break it down into jobs that you can realistly complete in a weekend/breaks,balljoints,cleaning engine compt etc

a factory service manual is about the best $25 you can spend on your project//available as a reprint from most vndors or also common on ebay too

[gcburdic]

Hey krazykevin....

I guess I'll be the first to say to the board!!!!

here's a thread that may be helpful....got a LOT of insightful info from this
board!!!....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=307909

Have fun with your truck.....

[big_al_71]

Organize your self......
make a detail parts list......
Plan ahead....
Concentrate....
When tired stop....


Worked for me.... I budget for "x" amount and ended up spending "y" amount
at least 4-5k over budget.....

[KrazyKevin]

Thanks so much for all of the insight. I'm feeling good now because after really thinking about, agree with yall 100%. Tearing a truck down to the frame is very intimidating (sp) to a new guy. But at the same time, you have the feeling of wanting the truck to be show quaility.

Anyways, again, thanks to all.

Lucky, your tip seems to be pretty specific, is there a story you would like to tell that I may have missed? Or, is this just a common mistake by new guys?

Lastly, any shop equipment regrets any of you have? Other than the basic wrenches and such, is there any tools you guys couldn't live without now?

THanks

Kevin

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

If you take the front suspension apart, make sure you get the alignment pegs back into their holes on the lower A arms

Do you mean the alignment shims on the upper A-arms?

[BP68]

Now that you have a truck to work on, how about some pics?

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by KrazyKevin

stuff deleted...
Any tool you ran across months down the line that you wished you would of gotten earlier?
...stuff deleted

I've posted this picture before but I think it is worth repeating.
Three very useful tools.

#1 is a distributor wrench. I bought it at the used tool store here for about $12. Yes I know a combination wrench fits back there if you stand on your head and risk life and limb with the engine running. But this thing is the cat's meow.

#2 is a brake bleeder wrench. Something like 3/8ths on one end, 5/16ths on the other. Yes a 1/4" socket works but then you have to get the brake fluid cleaned up/off/out of the darn socket. This thing reaches the bleeder, has leverage with the 90 degree bend, and wipes down in 9 nano seconds after you're done with it.

#3 is perphaps the biggest WTF was I thinking not buying this 20 years ago tool. It is a window crank/door lever horse shoe clip remover tool. You can get that clip out with a little screwdriver or similar tool after you jimmy around long enough, poke a hole through your door panel, and finally launch the clip across the shop. Or you can go buy one of these for under $10 and save all the frustrations of going through the backyard clip removal process. I bought my first car in 1984. It is a 1972 Chevelle. They have the same clips as your truck. I didn't purchase this gem of a tool until about 5 or 6 years ago. I still shake my head every time I grab it when I think of all the time I spent screwing around without it.

[breeh]

Originally Posted by mrein3

#3 is perphaps the biggest WTF was I thinking not buying this 20 years ago tool. It is a window crank/door lever horse shoe clip remover tool. You can get that clip out with a little screwdriver or similar tool after you jimmy around long enough, poke a hole through your door panel, and finally launch the clip across the shop. Or you can go buy one of these for under $10 and save all the frustrations of going through the backyard clip removal process. I bought my first car in 1984. It is a 1972 Chevelle. They have the same clips as your truck. I didn't purchase this gem of a tool until about 5 or 6 years ago. I still shake my head every time I grab it when I think of all the time I spent screwing around without it.

Could not have said it better myself. I swiped a fork from the kitchen 20 years ago that I have used for this purpose. I have the tool now and I am going to straighten the tines on that fork and sneak it back into the kitchen!

[SactoJim]

No matter what your approach, whether you're gonna try to drive and restore at the same time or just blow it all apart and restore, do yourself a favor and take a bunch of detailed digital pics and buy a bunch of misc sized zip loc bags and use the hell out of them.....(ie..put all hardware from right door in baggies and label them so). Not sure how long your resto will take, but I guarantee you'll be glad that you did this.

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by SactoJim

No matter what your approach, whether you're gonna try to drive and restore at the same time or just blow it all apart and restore, do yourself a favor and take a bunch of detailed digital pics and buy a bunch of misc sized zip loc bags and use the hell out of them.....(ie..put all hardware from right door in baggies and label them so). Not sure how long your resto will take, but I guarantee you'll be glad that you did this.

SactoJim.....that's a BIG AMEN....after 2+ years of my current rebuild....that's the BEST advice!!!!.....Bag and label every single thing....
It may be a PITA but you'll appreciate it in the end!!!

[67ChevyRedneck]

My "throw it all in a box, there's no way I'll forget where all these screws/bolts/pieces go" plan didn't work out so well for me. I have a box that still has a lot of screws and bolts and the truck is done

[BigDaddyDave]

I agree with Ackattack,do it right the first time and save yourself a lot of trouble and headaches. I have spent a lot of time and money,doing things over and over.

[PanelDeland]

PB Blaster,Kroil,or Knock 'er Loose.WD-40 should be used for drying out distributors.The others are real penetrating oil.Keep your money and rent from local auto store specialty tools you will not use a lot.Unless you plan on swapping lots of engines you can get a cherry picker from a tool rental yard.Stuff like that is nice to have but has to be stored when not in use.

[vectorit]

Great advise goin on here!
For me, I totally agree only working on your rig in small projects. Weekend stuff only, that way you can keep enjoying your project. Because over time you will develop a better idea of how you want to fix up your rig, be it the frame off route or a solid daily driver.
As far as tools go:
1. A good timining light.
2. A manual style grease gun.
3. A good floor jack.
To this day I am still using those tools I purchased when I first started years ago. (Aside from the typicall hand tools).

Having fun is key, so once you find yourself getting frustrated just walk away for a break.

[chev-obsession]

i would say be patient, and do different sections at a time. then you can drive it and not want to rush it getting it done. also, if you have rust issues i would say take as much time as you need and take care of all of it.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by vectorit

1. A good timining light.
2. A manual style grease gun.
3. A good floor jack.
.

For the grease gun, get one with a rubber hose instead of the steel end (normally, you'll need to buy it seperately). I've broken two of the metal tubes trying to get it to contort to the zerk I needed to grease I finally bought a rubber hose to go on my gun.

*Edit, I just reread my last sentence

Also get a good set of jackstands. Safety first! Check out a Northern Tool if you have one. They have some cool stuff there with decent prices.

[hotrod 80]

I learned the hard way . When i was young I tore a 55' chevy 2 door down to the frame . Luckily went i got what was left back from the media blasters I knew it wasn't ever going back together. I will never do a frame off again . That's just me though . lots of great advice here .

[LuckyHenriksen]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Do you mean the alignment shims on the upper A-arms?

Well maybe thats what they are called, there is a small peg that sticks out in the front saddle where the bar on the lower A arm attaches, and theres a matching hole in that A arm bar that fits into it. You need to have them fitted into place before you tighten it all up, or else the A arms could be way too far forward or backward.

(if someone can enlighten me as to the proper terminology, please feel free )