need help with timing

[Nima]

Ok, I am swicthing to HEI using a mallory system that I have. I marked the driections of vacume and the rotor. turned the engine to TDC @ #1, then tried to drop the new dzzy. The balancer was at zero at this time. the last 1/4-1/2 inche didn't go in regardless how much I palyed with it. Base on what I read in some of the posts, I turned the engine by hand, slowly until it dropped in by itself. Engine was turned clockwitse for the total of 20-30 degrees I think. Hooked up 12 V unfused ignition wire and tried to fire it up. Fuel spits out of the carb and that's it. Does engine is too advanced? Can I just tunne by turning the dizzy or do I have to take eveything apart? Or there is something else I am not doing? How can I say that I was not at exhaust TDC? Any input would be great.
Thanks.

[dave2953]

It could be possible that you are 180* out, but not necessarily. Whenever I have to stab my distributor I haven't ever turned the motor to get the dizzy to drop that last little bit. I just turn the distributor until it clicks. I've always pointed the oil pump shaft at ~11 o'clock and when the dizzy drops in it's pointing right at #1. I hope this makes sense. I'm not the best at explaining my methods, but it does work much better than it sounds on paper. Also, did you remove the valve cover to be certain what stroke you were on?

[Nima]

No, I didn't remove the valve cover but some thing else came to my mind. If #1 is at TDC, the rotor must point toward nember 1, is this correct. Because Now I remember that When I was marking the direction of rotor on the old dizzy, it was toward #2.

[cdowns]

the engine is at TDC for each cylinder twice//to time correctly it needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke

[dave2953]

Originally Posted by cdowns

the engine is at TDC for each cylinder twice//to time correctly it needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke

Exactly....that's why I take the valve cover off to verify the position of the valves. It could be pointing to #1, but if it's not on the proper stroke it won't fire

[Sinister]

I take out the #1 spark plug and use a remote starter switch. When I feel the puff of air out of the spark plug hole, and the balancer mark is on the timing tab, I know I'm good to go. I usually double check the rotor as well.

[msgross]

I had to use a screwdriver and line up the oil pump to get mine to seat all the way down.

[LONGHAIR]

I always do the turn to drop method, the gears are already engaged so nothing can change, it all turns together.
You mentioned that you first marked the rotor and vacuum canister points, so there really is no reason to think you are 180 degrees out, if you put it back the way the old one came out. This of course assumes that the plug wires are on the cap in the same relationship to the original too.

Pointing toward #2 cylinder is way too advanced. #2 is the last in the firing order before starting back at #1 again....

If you have enough rotational travel, you can just turn the distributor clockwise to retard it. If you don't have enough turning space, pull it back out and turn the rotor clockwise one tooth and drop it back in. It will not line-up with the oil pump shaft, just turn the engine until it drops the last little bit.

[Nima]

Got it to work. Thanks for all the helps. One thing that I experienced, when I had the #1 on TDC it wouldn't drop in for the last 1/2 inche, then I start to turning the engine clockwise, the rotor was turning with it too although it was not all the way in. anyways, it got to the point that it dropped in, at that time, the rotor looked way off but when I turned the engine back to TDC the rotor was facing the #1 perfectly!. Started right up after that. Thanks again.

[newbraunie]

It works best for me to line up timing mark at 12-18 degrees TDC instead of 0 degrees TDC when dropping in dizzy. This way when you bump the motor to get the dizzy to drop into place ( that last 1/4-1/2 inch) it will give the gear a chance to engage and rotor will line up just right.