11-24-2008, 03:35 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: johnstown, NY
Posts: 2,393
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Am I cheap?
I want to bring my engine that I had built back to the shop to have it put on the dyno to break it in. It's been a year since its been built. I want to get it bolted to the chassis and trans so I can continue with my build. The dyno time is going to be $300. Then he said another $170 because he need to measure and install pushrods and rockers, and install the HEI. (cost of pushrods not included) So its going to be a $500. day. I'm kind of bummed
What do you guys think? |
11-24-2008, 03:40 PM | #2 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Hideaway, TX
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Re: Am I cheap?
Quote:
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11-24-2008, 03:40 PM | #3 |
"THE GREEN GOBLIN"
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fremont Ca.
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Re: Am I cheap?
WOW Thats expensive but hey if you have the money do it.. I would just use the money twords the truck and break the motor in yourself Just my opinion..
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Petey-pablo
"THE GREEN GOBLIN" 1972 Cheyenne 10 Short Fleet Side Front 2.5inch Spindles with 2inch Springs Rear 4inch drop Springs. 454BBC TH400,Posi 1971 Cheyenne 10 Long Fleet Side 454BBC TH350,Posi Sold Drive it like you stole it! Petey-pablo@sbcglobal.net |
11-24-2008, 03:41 PM | #4 |
Tot Roddin'
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mid-MO
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Re: Am I cheap?
x2
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-Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package) |
11-24-2008, 03:43 PM | #5 |
PITbut
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: monroe washington
Posts: 3,052
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Re: Am I cheap?
Im kinda in the same spot you are in. I had my motor built in june. Full workup. I want to get the motor broke in, or do SOMETHING so it wont hurt the engine waiting ya know.. The engine builder guy said that i dont want to wait more then a year before i start it.... I have the motor in the truck now, i just dont have a cab.... Im thinking once i get the radiator installed i should be able to fire it up... I dont know.
Let me know what you end up doing. 500 dollars seems about right. They will be working on your engine for the day probably.... |
11-24-2008, 04:03 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: johnstown, NY
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Re: Am I cheap?
Thanks for the replies. This is something that I could do myself with others help, but it wouldn't be for awhile, I couldn't even guess when. Plus I would be paying for the shops expertise in tuning the engine properly, so when the time comes, its ready to go.
I would love to spend the money on other parts, but my gut tells me this will be money well spent. |
11-24-2008, 04:09 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
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Re: Am I cheap?
expensive but probablly worth it to have the motor broke in tuned and dynoed ,ready as a turnkey no fuss no muss install hookup the wires and you're ready to go
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11-24-2008, 04:15 PM | #8 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,684
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Re: Am I cheap?
Cost to convert an old points distributor to prime the oil system - Next to nothing.
Cost to break-in the motor sitting in my own frame - Nothing. Learning how to install and adjust my own valve train - Priceless.
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
11-24-2008, 04:19 PM | #9 | |
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Join Date: May 2004
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Re: Am I cheap?
Quote:
Glock, you have a good point too and I do like to do as much as I can myself. I might ask if I can stay at the shop while he works on it. Depends on if I can take a day off work. |
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11-24-2008, 04:20 PM | #10 |
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Location: Ohio
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Re: Am I cheap?
DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO
If the guy is any good it will be worth every penny you spend!!! They can look at so many more items during break in that can prevent you from damaging a new motor My dyno guy found 40 horsepower on the dyno - between timing - jet changes and carb spacers On the track I would have had 30 passes to even get close to what we did in 6 hours Mine was 425.00 and included swapping the springs after breakin. I had as many dyno pulls as I wanted, 15 in all, for the same money. Make sure your dyno man will work with you - I looked at 10 dyno shops before I found this guy - Todd used to build motors for the Larry Morgan Pro stock team - for several years he ran the pro stock leasing program. Lots of valuable experience for the money I shelled out
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1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree |
11-24-2008, 04:29 PM | #11 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,684
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Re: Am I cheap?
If he will use the time with you as a teaching moment, and let you get some oil on your hands, then it might be worth the money. I am a frugual mo-fo, in the fact that I like doing everything possible myself and putting the money elsewhere. Someone on here has a quote in their sig: "I think I'll do it myself and pay the extra $500." I love that one.
Personally I wouldn't do it for an everyday street motor, but if was a performance motor that would be seeing some track time then sure. But that's just me. 1968SWBBigBlock made a lot of good points too. There is a lot you can squeeze out of a powerplant when they are hooked up to life support.
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
11-24-2008, 04:41 PM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: South Florida
Posts: 11,375
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Re: Am I cheap?
My motor was built by us and has not seen a dyno yet, however we tuned, adjusted the rockers and now I am just driving it I have put around two hundred miles so far, changed the oil already twice and so far so good. I had to rejet my hp650 twice, added a one inch spacer it feels really good. It only sat for about three weeks untill we started it. If my motor was going to sit for a much longer period maybe I would had put it on a dyno to be broken in, but I rather do it my self enjoying the ride at the same time.
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Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please!!!!!. Sylvester's build thread >>>http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=big+rebuild |
11-24-2008, 04:41 PM | #13 |
Active Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,643
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Re: Am I cheap?
Glock - I agree - I like doing everything I can myself as well - this was my 1st big block and 1st motor in 18 years - I spent enough on parts and machine work I wanted to make sure it was spot on before I dropped it in the engine bay. I also do not have a ton of room or time to work on things at my place so getting it right the 1st time was one of my priority's.
I learned so much from this dyno experience. Todd would let me do about anything I wanted except run the equipment. Just watching a pro and seeing how they do the little things can make your life so much easier.
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1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree |
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