Charging / Electrical problem - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72K10 · 12-05-2002, 02:32 PM

My battery keeps going dead.
I fixed all possible shorts, replaced both the voltage regulator (high quality NAPA) and battery.
I made sure all ground straps were in place and connected. Even added another between engine and frame.

Replaced alternator last night (good quality NAPA), tested the system; showed only 12V returning to battery at first, but then jumped and stayed at 14.8, right where it should be. Got up this morning, started it up, pulled on the lights, and the ammeter dropped. Lights flickered sharply. Checked voltage at battery, and it was getting only 11.8 volts returned.

Seems to me if it were a short, that shouldn't keep the alternator from sending at least 14 volts back to the battery. Why isn't that happening when I turn on the lights? Why did it return 14.8 last night but less than 12 today? Where would the short be? Seems like light switch would be the obvious place, but again, why would that preclude at least 14 return volts?

Appreciate any ideas / help on this. This problem has been kicking my ass for three weeks now.

Chris

70c10 · 12-05-2002, 02:39 PM

What have you worked on recently?

JimKshortstep4x4 · 12-05-2002, 02:44 PM

I don't think that you have a short. What you are describing sounds like the regulator, but you will need to check your wiring and make sure the alternator is ok. From how you are describing
the problem, I would focus on the regulator, (clean the connections, make sure it is grounded, etc.).

Is the regulator adjustable or is it one of the new solid state ones?

Jim

72K10 · 12-05-2002, 02:54 PM

Jim, I don't think it's the alternator or regulator as I have replaced the regulator already (don't know if it's adjustable, just know it cost like 45 bucks at NAPA), plus I haven't had any surges / flickering during normal use. Alternator is the 2nd new one in two weeks. I think the first got burned because of whatever the real problem is.

70c10, that's a valid question. I did have to replace the HEI ignition control module recently, but that's about it. Only other electrical thing I've done anything with is the radio. It will sometimes cut out when the battery is near failing and I turn on the turn signal, but that never happens when the battery is fully charged, so I think the radio is a symptom, not a cause. Not sure, though.

I guess it all started when I drove up a rocky hill and the battery got knocked off. Battery went dead soon after. Since the positive cable had gotten damaged, I replaced it, thinking that was the short. Didn't help. Replaced battery, then alternator, then regulator, then alternator again. No luck.

70c10 · 12-05-2002, 03:06 PM

Make sure the radio is hooked up correctly. JimKshortstep4x4 just guided me thru a turnsignal switch replacement and it seems to have fixed a few things including the dead battery syndrome.

ozarkhippie · 12-05-2002, 03:25 PM

check the batt. and see if it doesn't have a shorted cell.

Dandeluxe · 12-05-2002, 06:38 PM

72K10,
I HAD THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM, AND NEVER HAD TIME TO FIGURE IT OUT SO I ENDED UP PUTTING A SCHUMACHER TRICKLE CHARGER ON IT, GIVES IT 1.5 AMPS ALL THE TIME IT IS PLUGGED IN . SINCE I DONT DRIVE IT IN THE WINTER IT KEEPS IT AT FULL CHARGE AT ALL TIMES. I BOUGHT THE CHARGER AT AUTO ZONE FOR$ 20. OO . AND MOUNTED IT NEXT TO THE BATTERY ON THE FIREWALL , LET ME KNOW HOW YOU FIGURE IT OUT SO I KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN THE SPRING. NOTE I JUST PUT A NEW ALT. AND REPLACED WITH A INTERNAL REGULATOR IN THE NEW ALTERNATOR. THANKS, DAN

ChevLoRay · 12-06-2002, 01:53 PM

You may have to replace your wiring harness. I had a "little" electrical fire and ended up replacing my lighting harness. M&DH Electric Fabricators, Inc., in Sante Fe Springs, CA., offers modified harnesses, i.e., for one-wire alternators and HEI, etc., to fit our trucks. You can access then on-line at wiringharness.com. I am pleased with their products and service. All colors are factory and all connectors are, too. Harnesses include all hold-down brackets.

In light of your battery problem, you undoubtedly have a hidden malfunction that is a short to ground. It may be within the wiring harness.

dashadow · 12-06-2002, 08:54 PM

Remove fuse going to radio and see if your problem clears up. If not,at least you have ruled out the radio. Just a thought. Man I hate electrical problems!

Jesse 67 c-10 · 12-06-2002, 10:08 PM

With everything off, disconnect one battery cable and put a volt meter between it and the battery, it should show 0, otherwise you have a short somewhere. To check, pull fuses and measure the voltage across the connectors, the one that draws voltage when everything is off is the culprit circuit. You have an ammeter you say? try bypassing it, have the wire go straight from the alt to the bat, obviously keep the regulator hooked, if you battery still goes dead, then it's not the problem! I know when puting the voltage reg on out garden tractor (very similar) you had to touch some wires and what not to set up a field direction or something, there were very specific instructions, anyone else on this? Good luck!
Jesse

71k5 · 12-06-2002, 10:35 PM

If your battery got knocked loose, check the other wires coming off the positive terminal. like the one to the Junction block? Any fusable links in this area that you didn't check? Good luck in your hunt for the problem...let us know if you find the culprit!

72chop · 12-07-2002, 11:41 AM

I had that problem on a friends 71 and the problem was the ignition switch. The regulator gets it's 12 volts from the aux switch on the ignition. Check the no. 4 terminal on the regulator for 12 volts.

72K10 · 12-08-2002, 03:50 PM

The short was the dimmer switch on the floor. Full of rust.
The charging problem was due to various things, but the last time it was due to the regulator wiring clip not fully seated. Thanks all for the replies and help!!

12-05-2002, 02:32 PM	#1
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	Charging / Electrical problem FIXED! My battery keeps going dead. I fixed all possible shorts, replaced both the voltage regulator (high quality NAPA) and battery. I made sure all ground straps were in place and connected. Even added another between engine and frame. Replaced alternator last night (good quality NAPA), tested the system; showed only 12V returning to battery at first, but then jumped and stayed at 14.8, right where it should be. Got up this morning, started it up, pulled on the lights, and the ammeter dropped. Lights flickered sharply. Checked voltage at battery, and it was getting only 11.8 volts returned. Seems to me if it were a short, that shouldn't keep the alternator from sending at least 14 volts back to the battery. Why isn't that happening when I turn on the lights? Why did it return 14.8 last night but less than 12 today? Where would the short be? Seems like light switch would be the obvious place, but again, why would that preclude at least 14 return volts? Appreciate any ideas / help on this. This problem has been kicking my ass for three weeks now. Chris __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super Last edited by 72K10; 12-08-2002 at 03:48 PM.

12-05-2002, 02:39 PM	#2
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	What have you worked on recently? __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

12-05-2002, 02:54 PM	#4
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	Jim, I don't think it's the alternator or regulator as I have replaced the regulator already (don't know if it's adjustable, just know it cost like 45 bucks at NAPA), plus I haven't had any surges / flickering during normal use. Alternator is the 2nd new one in two weeks. I think the first got burned because of whatever the real problem is. 70c10, that's a valid question. I did have to replace the HEI ignition control module recently, but that's about it. Only other electrical thing I've done anything with is the radio. It will sometimes cut out when the battery is near failing and I turn on the turn signal, but that never happens when the battery is fully charged, so I think the radio is a symptom, not a cause. Not sure, though. I guess it all started when I drove up a rocky hill and the battery got knocked off. Battery went dead soon after. Since the positive cable had gotten damaged, I replaced it, thinking that was the short. Didn't help. Replaced battery, then alternator, then regulator, then alternator again. No luck. __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super

12-05-2002, 03:06 PM	#5
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	Make sure the radio is hooked up correctly. JimKshortstep4x4 just guided me thru a turnsignal switch replacement and it seems to have fixed a few things including the dead battery syndrome. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

12-05-2002, 03:25 PM	#6
ozarkhippie Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Eureka Springs AR Posts: 494	check the batt. and see if it doesn't have a shorted cell. __________________ Buy Sale or Trade 71 3/4 4x4 72 1/2 ton cheyenne 4x4

12-05-2002, 02:44 PM	#3
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	I don't think that you have a short. What you are describing sounds like the regulator, but you will need to check your wiring and make sure the alternator is ok. From how you are describing the problem, I would focus on the regulator, (clean the connections, make sure it is grounded, etc.). Is the regulator adjustable or is it one of the new solid state ones? Jim

12-05-2002, 06:38 PM	#7
Dandeluxe Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: st.louis mo. Posts: 717	BATTERY PROBLEM 72K10, I HAD THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM, AND NEVER HAD TIME TO FIGURE IT OUT SO I ENDED UP PUTTING A SCHUMACHER TRICKLE CHARGER ON IT, GIVES IT 1.5 AMPS ALL THE TIME IT IS PLUGGED IN . SINCE I DONT DRIVE IT IN THE WINTER IT KEEPS IT AT FULL CHARGE AT ALL TIMES. I BOUGHT THE CHARGER AT AUTO ZONE FOR$ 20. OO . AND MOUNTED IT NEXT TO THE BATTERY ON THE FIREWALL , LET ME KNOW HOW YOU FIGURE IT OUT SO I KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN THE SPRING. NOTE I JUST PUT A NEW ALT. AND REPLACED WITH A INTERNAL REGULATOR IN THE NEW ALTERNATOR. THANKS, DAN __________________ 1969 cst swb 350/400 th . DANNY C . ["]FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS DRIVE F@RD$!! 1969 cst swb corvette hugger orange with 400 hp sbc I started out with nothing and i held on to it

12-06-2002, 01:53 PM	#8
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	You may have to replace your wiring harness. I had a "little" electrical fire and ended up replacing my lighting harness. M&DH Electric Fabricators, Inc., in Sante Fe Springs, CA., offers modified harnesses, i.e., for one-wire alternators and HEI, etc., to fit our trucks. You can access then on-line at wiringharness.com. I am pleased with their products and service. All colors are factory and all connectors are, too. Harnesses include all hold-down brackets. In light of your battery problem, you undoubtedly have a hidden malfunction that is a short to ground. It may be within the wiring harness. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

12-06-2002, 08:54 PM	#9
dashadow Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Alabama Posts: 90	Remove fuse going to radio and see if your problem clears up. If not,at least you have ruled out the radio. Just a thought. Man I hate electrical problems! __________________ '71; 250; 3 on a tree GMC

12-06-2002, 10:08 PM	#10
Jesse 67 c-10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Posts: 599	With everything off, disconnect one battery cable and put a volt meter between it and the battery, it should show 0, otherwise you have a short somewhere. To check, pull fuses and measure the voltage across the connectors, the one that draws voltage when everything is off is the culprit circuit. You have an ammeter you say? try bypassing it, have the wire go straight from the alt to the bat, obviously keep the regulator hooked, if you battery still goes dead, then it's not the problem! I know when puting the voltage reg on out garden tractor (very similar) you had to touch some wires and what not to set up a field direction or something, there were very specific instructions, anyone else on this? Good luck! Jesse __________________ Edmonton, Alberta, 67 c-10, Long fleet, front disks, 5 lug rear end, 327 with Vortechs, edlbrock manifold, comp cams XE 256, 600cfm carb. Backed by a getrag 5 speed and 1 piece driveshaft. 1993 Dihatsu Hijet Jumbo cab 4x4, currently converting to battery electric power.

12-06-2002, 10:35 PM	#11
71k5 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Manchester, PA Posts: 138	If your battery got knocked loose, check the other wires coming off the positive terminal. like the one to the Junction block? Any fusable links in this area that you didn't check? Good luck in your hunt for the problem...let us know if you find the culprit!

12-07-2002, 11:41 AM	#12
72chop Active Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Douglasville Ga Posts: 126	I had that problem on a friends 71 and the problem was the ignition switch. The regulator gets it's 12 volts from the aux switch on the ignition. Check the no. 4 terminal on the regulator for 12 volts.

12-08-2002, 03:50 PM	#13
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	The short was the dimmer switch on the floor. Full of rust. The charging problem was due to various things, but the last time it was due to the regulator wiring clip not fully seated. Thanks all for the replies and help!! __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.