tank selector switch

[dammitmitchell]

hey guys i got an 83 with a "noisey" un functional fuel selector vaulve
the switch is fairly new..
but i went to swap tanks the other night and it "squealed" an my truck shut down in the middle of the road BLEH!
so my switch is the multiple hose (expensive) one with the i think 6 pin connector on it..
sooo..
got a reccomendation on either an inexpensive repair.. or am i stuck paying out to the big boys for the switch?

[Cherub]

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

hey guys i got an 83 with a "noisey" un functional fuel selector vaulve
the switch is fairly new..
but i went to swap tanks the other night and it "squealed" an my truck shut down in the middle of the road BLEH!
so my switch is the multiple hose (expensive) one with the i think 6 pin connector on it..
sooo..
got a reccomendation on either an inexpensive repair.. or am i stuck paying out to the big boys for the switch?

Are you talking about the actual switch that is not functioning or the switching valve?

[87c10slammer]

id say spend the money and get a new vavle.. i had similair issues but am getting rid of the duel tank for a blazer tank or fuel cell..

[dammitmitchell]

the selector switch is what is bad..
it is "noisey"

[dammitmitchell]

hey slammer is the tank worth it?
i could always "upgrade" while doing my repairs..

[Pyrotechnic]

I just did an electric fuel pump install and I ended up eliminating the tank selector valve. I ended up making the drivers side tank my default, and will install a small transfer pump to transfer fuel from the passenger tank to the drivers side when needed. Credit goes to DirtyLarry for this idea. The tank selector switch will be left in place as a means of viewing fuel level on the gauge, and there will be a separate switch in the ashtray to turn on the transfer pump.

Reasons for eliminating the valve.
-The pump would have been an ideal distance from the tank it was installed next to, but when switched over, it would have had to pull the fuel further.

-The guy at the local speed shop suggested I should have a larger line feeding the pump than what is leaving the pump. I will eventually modify the sending unit for a half inch tube and -8 AN hose to the pump, and -6 AN hose from the pump to under the hood. There isn't a selector valve for 1/2 inch hose.

-The ports on the selector valve are not your usual 3/8 barb size. They are undersized, probably to keep you from destroying the plastic housing when replacing hoses. Seemed too restrictive to me.

For a stock motor I wouldn't worry so much, but in this application I wanted to make sure the pump was going to get an ideal installation.

Just throwing an idea out there. I would just get another switch, as they seem to be pretty reliable and last a decent amount of time.