Turbo 350 - 2004R swap. What do I need?

[bryanw1968]

I am trying to get ready to do this swap. So far I have the trans and the convertor. From what I understand the drive shaft won't have to be modified.
Now my questions:

1. Will my B&M ratchet shifter I'm currently using work with the 2004R?

2. I've heard the kick down cable is different and it controls the pressure so it's crucial to get it adjusted correctly.

3. Will my currently cooling lines work?

Anything else I need to know?

Thanks,
Bryan

[whatnow123]

I don't think your rachet shifter will work as it only has 3 positions for the trans. It will work if you set it up to shift 2nd, 3rd and 4th only.

I have the 4 speed B&M shifter in my truck, I think you should buy a new shifter so that you can shift 1st when you want to.

Your cooler will work, but I'd run a secondary one to be sure. A cooler is cheap compaired to a new trans that overheated.

You also need to buy the right TV cable and braket for your carb. Do not try "to make yours work". It's a very percise movement.

Other than that, you will love driving on the freeway now. I've got 4.11's and run about 2300 at 65mph.

BTW, not sure if you remember a post about your trucks weight awhile back.. mine is at 3620.

[corn]

It depends on which shifter you have. Some will, some wont. Also, the 200-4R is a lock-up transmission. What are you using to hook up the lockup converter? Dont forget the TV cable, it controls your shifts & if you dont hook it up the trans wont last long at all. Same with adjusting the TV cable, its got to be spot on.

[Gray Ghost]

Cooling lines should work, the crossmember is fine where it is, driveshaft will be fine at stock length. The TV cable has it's own bracket, you'll need one of those and I suggest a transmission shop for the adjustment of the cable....it is a very touchy op and should only be done by a pro.

[Longhorn Man]

I'll have to partially disagree with gray ghost. Most shops (even many tranny shops) just don't get it on the TV cable adjustment. They are used to factory assembled vehicles, not old trucks with late model components. Since your intake and carb were never intended to be used with an overdrive, the bolt holes for the bracket are probably not in the right location, and the carb's geomitry isn't right for the rate of pull that the TV needs to ensure correct line pressure.
I highly recomend getting the kit from www.bowtieoverdrives.com
You have heard correct on the importance of the TC vable's settings. Even if it feels right, if it isn't dead on right, it'll be worth it's weight in scrap after 10,000 to 20,000 miles.
The physical part is pretty much a remove and install. You'll need to pay attention to the converter though. The 200 4R was installed on engines other than Chevy in the GM lineup, and some of the makes had flat flet plates, and some had raised pads where the converter bolts up. You'll want to use the right converter for your aplication (chevy small block flex plates are flat if memory serves... been a while for me)
Your shifter may or may not be OK. many aftermarket shifters were set up for either/or, look up your model number and find the listed aplications.
You will also want a way to lock up the converter to prevent excesive slipping. A toggle will work, but is not recomended since it will not unlock when you have to jab the brake pedal in a panic stop. This will stall the engine, and can cause isses like cracking/shattering the flexplate, and/or breaking the bolts that hold the converter to the flexplate, or even the bolts that hold the flexplate to the crankshaft. U-joints can take a seriouse beating in this type situation too. Think of driving a stickshift at 70 MPH and locking up the tires without hitting the clutch... a lockup will make the connection from the tranny to engine even stronger than a stickshift.

[krue]

Bowtie overdrives sells a wiring harness for the lockup as well. I did a little searching and found how to modify my edelbrock bracket to be correct for the tv cable, but I don't remember where I found the info, the links are on my old computer.

[Mondo]

I have a 200r in my truck. Also the lockup with the kit that unlocks with the brake light switch on the brake pedal.
The only problem I have is the lock up stays on unless I really floor it (and when braking).... the issue is that it lugs as it stays locked up under 45mph. tapping the break only unlocks it for a couple seconds as the throttle is less than half down and it goes right back into OT and pings (hope you understand). I often drive around town in 3rd to avoid lugging the motor (the other gears shift appropriately).
I'm going to see if I can have a toggle switch to keep it unlocked for around town.

[windmill]

you will need to find the right governor for the gears in the rear end you have.
call this guy he will help you
http://www.ptsxtreme.com/

[Longhorn Man]

mondo, doesn't your lockup kit allow fine tuining? I know some of them do... B&M has a tuneable one.
windmill... the governor has nothing to do with the gears in the rear end... it is more for max engine RPMs... will force an upshift upon the predetermined RPM.

[windmill]

you gov will make the shift sooner or later. i know i have a gn thats got a 200r4 in it. i have a 72 chevy truck with one. Also did you know that the gn comes with a diff gov and diff valve body than other 200's too. thats why people look for thr gn trans for that reason. my trans in my gn is been for almost 9 years and has made lots of 10 sec 1/4 mile passes.
and for his trans not coming out of lock up its mostly the cable not adj right.

[Longhorn Man]

The govonor only comes in at the upper RPMs... and the cable has no control of the lock up feature what so ever.

[cdowns]

crossmember will need to b moved back,i was able to use existing holes in the frame to reposition it. i put over 60,000miles on mine with never having the lockup connected never had a problem and it was still a very strong tranny when i parted the truck out


i would strongly suggest a quality performance heavy duty rebuil prior to installation(i hate doing the same job twice)

[windmill]

this scan copy will show that the gov does affect the wot and part throttle shifts.read down about 2/3 before the first pics
this might not scan too good, but you will have to change the cable to get it to kick down. it controles the throttle pressure

[Mondo]

thanks guys! Mine is from a GN. this will help me look like I know what I'm talking about.... or confirm the tranny shop knows what their talking about.

[Longhorn Man]

windmill... thanks.
I have never heard of this at all.
I'll have to look into this and see if everything I know on auto tranny shifting is bunk.

[LEEVON]

You can save a bit of money on the lock-up kit by using a vaccum switch and brake cancel/cruise switch from GM or a junkyard (assuming that your trans has the internal wiring and solenoids).

[chevydog66]

I have done this conversion on my 72 GMC. I did a writeup about this with pics, and posted on here a few years ago. I think it was a sticky or under projects and builds.

[gkesseru]

If your B&M is a Megashifter, it can be converted top a 4 speed
see
http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/ins...truction/7.pdf

[rsavage]

Bow tie Overdrives has a bunch of info. If you have a quadrajet, Holley, or edelbrock carb they have specific TV cable kits/brackets that will fit. There are several factors to proper TV valve pull including 1/4 throttle position, length of pull and arc. They also have wiring kits which will unlock the converter when you step on the brake, downshift etc. They also have an add-on to their kit which, with a toggle switch, allows you to lock up the converter in 2nd and 3rd if you were towing, for example, in 3rd. I had to fab a bracket because I want to keep my 2bbl. Seems to work okay for me but I am turning too low of rpms in OD at 45-50 as I have too tall of tires on it. Going to go to 245 60 15's which will be 26.6" tall as opposed to the current 30.5". If your tranny is out of a GN you have a good one. Those and the Monte SS's are the most desireable. The tag on the right side of the tailshaft right at the back will have a 3BR, 4BQ, 5BQ, 6BR, or 7BR for the 83 -87 Regal Type T/GN/GNX (3BR for an 83, 4BQ for an 84 etc.). The Monte SS's for 84 - 88 had 4CQ, 5CQ, 6CZ, 7CZ, 8CZ codes on the tags. The one I put in my sub this winter was just a plain old Oldsmobile trans that had been rebuilt but not to GN or SS specs.

[chevydog66]

This told me just about everything I needed to know.
http://2004r.com/faq/faq.shtml

[Hard Luck]

I have been looking around at diffrent parts. I am on a real tight budget. I am building the relay and wiring curcuits myself.

Do I really need to spend $140 on the TV bracket? TCI and Edelbrock kits are closer to $30 or $40. Most of the add on kits I've seen are really marked up and the basics can be purchased for about 10% of the price.

[cparman]

I have a 200r being rebuilt as we speak. I hope to get it by the weekend. I will do my best to take a bunch of pics as I go along. I have done a bunch of these. I have a question for you

what kind of carb do you have?

I have a holley on my 69, but and edelbrock will be the same
I have these two part # on both of my trucks, they are LOKAR brand products, that I bought from JEGS
KD2200RHT this is the TV cable
SRK4000 this is the bracket to mount the cable to

I also have a 4 prong brake light switch from an mid 80's Caprice, with cruise control. This switch has two prongs that make the brake lights work, and the other two will unlock the converter. Here is how it works: The two male spades
( prongs) that operate the brake lights, are normally open, when you step on the brakes, they complete the connection needed to turn the brake lights on. The other two prongs are normally closed. They will allow the converter to lock up, but unlock the converter when the brakes are applied.
I also have an on/off toggle switch wired in to allow me to go to 4th gear and NOT lock up the converter. This helps when I am driving 40 ish and don't want the lugging I would feel when the converter locks.

SO, this is a bolt for bolt swap, you do not need to cut the driveshaft, you will need to move the crossmember, the cooler lines will work, the sticky wicket is the above.
YOU WILL LOVE THE END RESULT!!!
If I can help PM me

Chip

[gkesseru]

I purchased the TCI internal wiring kit for my 2004R. As originally wired, there are three wires that come to the external connector. Two are for the solenoid, one for solenoid positive end and one for solenoid negative end. The third wire goes to the 4th gear switch. The 4th gear switch has only one wire and I assume it connects the wire to ground when activated. The TCI kit replaces the existing switch with a two terminal switch with both wires coming out, but it also has a replacement wiring harness that nodes together the negative end of the solenoid to one of the 4th gear switch terminal posts and to a pin on the external connector. The kit also contains a new external connector and an external vacuum switch.

[jondancer]

Do you have to connect the lockup or can you run with out ?
What if you used a stall converter ?

[tdangle]

You will also need new metric torque converter bolts. I used a bracket from TCI and a factory cable. Worked great with stock 350 and Quadrajet carb the cooler lines are swapped in/out from the TH350. It’s not as overwhelming as it first seems. Take each step one at a time. Oh also metric trans mount bolts. Your stock mount will work just fine