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Old 12-10-2002, 01:22 AM   #1
Jefe
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Pics of my new Muncie 4 speed in my '68

For those of you that helped me out or wanted to see the M20 in my '68...here ya go! Thanks again!! (getting the hang of quick-shifting that bad-boy...man thats fun!! hehe)
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:23 AM   #2
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:24 AM   #3
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Old 12-10-2002, 03:35 AM   #4
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sweet man, tme to go chirp some tires
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Old 12-10-2002, 07:08 AM   #5
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Thumbs up Questions....

I'm very intrested in this swap. I know very little about the M20

Tell me about it....

What tranny did you swap from?

Whats first gear like?

How does the tranny shift? Sincro in all gears?

Is the 4th gear 1:1?

How do you rate that tranny for your truck?

Any info greatly appreciated. Thanx... Pete
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Old 12-10-2002, 09:07 AM   #6
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Your installation looks nice. To answer some of Chevypete's Q's, there are two common versions of the aluminum cased Muncie car transmission. The M20 and M21 note that GM called the cast iron truck 4 speed an M20 as well. The car M20 is a "wide" ratio with a 2.52 first gear. Compare this to the stock 3 speeds 3.5 first gear and getting moving will be hard with less than 3.73 gears. The M21 holds the record for the closest ratio production 4 speed ever made with a 2.20 first gear. It was only available with 3.73 or higher gears and IMO is not suitable for a heavy vehicle and at minimum one with 3.73 or higher numerically gears. All Muncies are 1:1 top gear. There were some oddball Saginaw 4 speeds where top gear was an OD. (Actually, they flip-flopped the three-four shift arm and when you shifted into 3rd it was really 1:1 then when you shifted into "4th" it was actually 3rd and the had installed an overdrive gear set instead of the standard underdrive 3rd gear.) For a "street truck" where communting and performance are of topmost importance, the wide ratio Muncie and 3.73 is a reasonable choice. For any heavy towing, the 3 speed is probably the better choice or one of the cast iron truck 4 speeds.
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Old 12-10-2002, 09:14 AM   #7
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Very clean installation, & they are a very durable gearbox! I ran an M21 in a 71 for about 100,000 miles & loved it......it outlasted the truck
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:17 PM   #8
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crossmember?
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:42 PM   #9
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The stick trucks had a bell crossmember,& nothing under the trans. You can also use the auto crossmember if you are converting from auto to stick......the complete set up is the same lenght as a 350 hydro/ short tail.....
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Old 12-10-2002, 09:15 PM   #10
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engine location

is your engine in the I-6 or std. v-8 position?
your pics will be very helpful in my engine positioning and tranny fitment.
thanks
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Old 12-11-2002, 10:00 AM   #11
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Thank you, Mike... Pete.
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Building the motor, painting the engine bay, rewireing everything...

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Old 12-11-2002, 03:37 PM   #12
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Engine is in standard v8 position.
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Old 12-11-2002, 11:19 PM   #13
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Call me dumb but what is the diffrence between the 6&8 position?I replaced my 6 with an 8 and had no problems. I learn sompthing new evreyday
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Old 12-12-2002, 01:51 PM   #14
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Is the eingin placed lower when in the 8 position?
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Old 12-12-2002, 02:54 PM   #15
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I think the engine is placed farther back in the 6cyl position, and farther forward in the 8 position. I think a lot of people sometimes put their 8cyl motors in the 6cyl positionf or better weight distribution.

I could be wrong, though.
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:35 PM   #16
crazy longhorn
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To run a sb V8 in i 6 position gives right at 3 1/2" of setback, & as far as height, if there is any difference its not much......I havent had any problems with the fan fitting in the shroud
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Old 12-12-2002, 04:57 PM   #17
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To run in the 8 position what do I need to replace, engine mounts, trans crosmember? Mine is kinda close to the firewall, the MSD distributor barely fit in.
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Old 12-12-2002, 08:25 PM   #18
crazy longhorn
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To run in the V8 position, you need to replace the eng mount stands, & slide the crossmember ahead(assuming auto trans). If you have a 3spd stick, with the bell crossmember, that will need to be changed, or removed & just run an auto crossmember under the trans(this wont work with the truck 4spd,as there is no provision for a mount at the rear of the trans). You will also find the D shaft to be too short, as will the exhaust! Up front, you could find the later style long water pump set up(mine is done that way)......& could cause clearance/shroud issues when moved foward. .....
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Old 12-13-2002, 03:44 AM   #19
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Tyler_69C10,

I think your right on the money: the farther back your engine is the better the weight distribution. When building a "kit car" the builder trys to get the engine as far back as possible. Ive seen some radical set backs but it makes life tough when you want to do stuff to the engine. I can barely take the valve covers off my 454 and "tall" ones are out of the question because its so close to the firewall... Pete.
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1968 Chevy - 3/4 Ton - 4X4 - Longbed - 383ci - TH350 - NP205

Building the motor, painting the engine bay, rewireing everything...

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Old 12-14-2002, 08:09 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info guys. Im not going to mess with it I can get to evreything allright.
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