02-01-2009, 11:49 PM | #1 |
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Balancer
Well i need a new balancer for my 250 six. The one on there currently has been painted over and i cannot find any timing marks making it mildly difficult to time and tune properly. I have never shopped for a balancer what do i need? Is a used one fine or is there benefit to buying new?
Thanks -Matthew |
02-02-2009, 07:13 AM | #2 |
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Location: Azle, Texas
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Re: Balancer
You can buy a new 250 balancer locally at places like Autozone and O Reilly Auto parts stores. They are pretty inexpensive overall, usually well under 75 dollars.
A used one is iffy, as the rubber insert will likely be deteoriated due to age. I once had a balancer on my six cylinder come apart at speed while driving down the road. Since the pulley is built into the balancer on these engine, the belt flew off, and the whole metal ring came out from under the truck. I sent my wife to Autozone to buy a balancer, balancer puller, and a small sledge hammer to install the new one with. All total, it was under 100 dollars including the puller kit and hammer and I just replaced it beside the road.
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02-02-2009, 07:27 AM | #3 |
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Re: Balancer
The timing mark on the balancer is a groove in the ring. You should be able to feel it, even if you can't visually see it. I would keep looking- it's gotta be there. Otherwise just get the #1 cyl at tdc and scratch or paint a new mark on it.
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1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten... |
02-02-2009, 10:13 AM | #4 |
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Re: Balancer
Be aware that on some 250 engines the crankshaft is not drilled for a balancer bolt. It takes a shop to replace otherwise you can damage the bearings. I had mine drilled to accept a bolt some years back.
That being said, if your balancer is good and not loose, you can regroove or make a mark for Top Dead Center by taking the spark plug off the #1 cylinder and setting it to it's maximum upward travel on the compression stroke. I usually take all of the spark plugs out so the engine will turn easier. When it's almost to the top, I use a long screwdriver so I can feel when it reaches maximum upwards travel (just before it starts moving back down). Once you are at exact top dead center, your distributor rotor should be pointing to where the #1 cylinder cable should be and you can scribed the balancer to line up with the "0" on the indicator. Now it's just a matter of using a timing light and moving the distributor slightly to refine your timing. |
02-02-2009, 10:38 AM | #5 |
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Location: Azle, Texas
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Re: Balancer
He's right about installing the new balancer.
You have two options, either knock it on, or drill and tap the crankshaft. When I worked at the dealership, SOP was to simply knock it on with a deadblow hammer. GM dealerships have been doing it that way for years. Otherwise, you have to disassemble the engine and use a press to install it onto the crankshaft. Does it hurt the bearings to whack it into place ? I personally don't think so. Other disagree. If I don't have a deadblow, I use a mini sledge and a 2x4 to cushion the blow. I look at it this way, yes it is stressful on the thrust bearing, but so is holding your foot on the clutch too though. No one ever thinks about that. The pressure plate puts a ton of force pushing on the crank too. Those thrust bearings are plenty tough.
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02-02-2009, 11:03 AM | #6 | |
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Re: Balancer
Quote:
I was told that it could mess up the bearings but I never experienced any problems the first couple of times I overhauled these old six cylinders. I would just whack the balancer with a mallet until one time I hit wrong and messed up the balancer. The last one I overhauled was my 68 GMC and since I had the engine apart, I just had a shop drill it. |
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02-02-2009, 08:07 PM | #7 |
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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Re: Balancer
I think i will just mark it at top dead center , it appears to be in decent shape any way. Thanks for all the replys though.
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