Rear setups - 4 link? Wishbone? Panhard?

[IvelDesigns]

I'm in the planning stages of my next project and need some info. The truck is a 50 chevy. I plan to do a mustang II setup up front (bagged of course) and am now thinking about the rear end.

What type of rear setup would you go with and why? My biggest question is, does it make sense to do a 4-link with a panhard? What about a wishbone? do you still need to run a panhard?

I have a couple build threads bookmarked that i need to look at again, but if you have links to some of your favorite, i'd like to see them.

[FnLow69]

triangulated four links dont need an panhard bar, a four bar does. also no pan hard is needed with a wishbone either.

I would go triangulated four link or wishbone (three link), there fairly easy to setup.

[IvelDesigns]

Is there a guideline for how wide the Y part of the wishbone gets? What about the straight bars? My concern (when looking at your dodge setup) is the bars on the outside of the frame. I want to maintain maximum wheel clearance, so keeping everything within the framerails is ideal.

[lolife99]

Have you ever thought about using an S10 frame?
This is a pretty cheap way to get them really low! Plus all the v8 and lowering components is already out there. (spindles, bags and a 5link from suicidedoors would slam that thing).
I have a buddy building a rat rod truck this way. He's not even running bags. They actually fit good on these frames.
Here's what I googled. Plus check out the H.A.M.B. or jalopy journal.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...rame+&aq=f&oq=

This is the swap article I was looking for:
http://www.ad-engineering.com/

All that is required is a 2wd standard cab long bed frame.
http://www.ad-engineering.com/FAQs.html

[andrewmp6]

That's a great link it does say you have to use there v8 swap parts tho.But its cheaper then buying a aftermarket frame.

[IvelDesigns]

thanks for that link. i had read where some guys here were doing s-10 swaps on their trucks, but didn't have that much detail.

From a cost standpoint, based on the numbers i just ran, I don't see how it could be cheaper to go the S10 route using SD kits. Here's what I see as a comparison:

Mustang II
Mustang II Crossmember $369.00
Mustang II 2" Drop Spindles $250.00
Mustang II Upper A Arms $199.00
Mustang II Air Ride Kit $529.00
Mustang II Rack and Pinion $185.00
2 Bags $150.00
Wishbone Setup $290.00
Step Notch $100.00

Ttl Front $1,532.00
Ttl Rear $540.00
Misc $1,520.00

MII Parts Total $3,592.00


S10
S10 Frame Swap Kit - TRUCK 2WD $1,000.00
S10 Steering Shaft Kit $370.00
Thorbecke Brothers S10 Upper & Lower Control Arm Set $720.00
2 RE7's $150.00
S10 5 link Wishbone Kit With Poly Bushings $1,175.00

Ttl Front $2,240.00
Ttl Rear $1,175.00
Misc $1,520.00
S10 Frame $500.00

Parts Total $5,435.00

This is my first run at putting a parts list together, so please point out areas and businesses where i can save some $$.

[FnLow69]

Originally Posted by IvelDesigns

Is there a guideline for how wide the Y part of the wishbone gets? What about the straight bars? My concern (when looking at your dodge setup) is the bars on the outside of the frame. I want to maintain maximum wheel clearance, so keeping everything within the framerails is ideal.

as for the "Y" it should be as close to 30-45 degrees as you can make it. on my old frame for my gmc i had the lower bars inside the frame, so i dont think thats a problem. on my dodge i didnt put them on the inside because of space back there.

[Twisted Minis]

I probably wouldn't go the S10 route anyways. They have one of the ugliest frames, and it really flexes a lot. They box it all the way to the back of the cab, and then it's just C-channel where it kicks up. They left the biggest flex point of the frame un-boxed.

For a 4-link, on a triangulated setup I think that the bars should have no less triangulation than 40 degrees each. Some people say 30, but I feel that is far too little. 45 degrees on each bar is the ideal situation, but it's not always possible without running very short bars.

On a wishbone, the angle does not matter as much, because it has one fixed point it will keep your axle centered no matter what. But I do feel that the wider you can get the bars on the axle, the better, because it provides more control.

Here is a 3-link I am working on right now.

[justpball]

bad azz pics bro, that is a sick setup!