returning to dual tanks

[mainermikeyd]

Ok on to my next project for my Big Red, returning her to dual tank status. The truck had only one tank(passenger) when I traded for it, my fuel lines are all still there, but the crossovers aren't there, an no selector valve. Also the cab the truck came from didn't have a dual tank switch in the dash?? The valve my dad found me one from one of his diesel distributors, so I am all set there, the questions I have are has anyone else taken on the same project, wiring up the selector switch, whether any of you have gone to the plastic tanks, and how do I know which fuel pumps to order, 2 outlet, 3 outlet?? I have 4 fuel lines currently on the frame, just need a lead down the right path!!! Any help, suggestions, or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated, THANKS GUYS!!!!

[BoeJaker1976]

oh boy! finally i get to answer one!

I was in the same boat. its really quite easy. If you want the stock switch, best bet if your local wrecking yard. get out your dremel and drill away. You'll need a 12 volt source that'll run to your switch to your solinoid. If you already have a solenoid check to see which one you have. The earlier model ones only need one wire that'll run to your switch and it has a "case ground" (grounds itself when you bolt it down) and run the wire at the switch to a good ground.

if you have a newer style one (plastic in construction and has a connector with about 5 or 6 wires) you'll need a wiring schematic to see which one goes where.

heres what i did, I just went down to anywhere where you can get some switches and did 2 switches. run a wire from the top "numby thingy" on top of your sender to the switch #1. and then take the wire that goes to your tank from the gauge cluster that's already there and put it too the switch.

kinda like this:

gauge cluster wire (already there comming out of gauge cluster)
|
|
|
switch
| |
/ \
/ \
to original to new tank
tank (new wire)
(preexisting
wire)

kinda the retard way of doing it, but it works

just remember to put a ground wire at the sending unit. Blenty of bolts around there to stick one in

for fuel lines, i just cut the metal ones and put in good quality rubber ones in and used T fitting for the return and what ever the other one is

[orbot]

Heres a handy diagram

Now this is for the electrical part, on the selector valve you will have 4 line entrys en th back and 2 on the front, the back are 2 for each tank and feed and a return, the fron are the same (feed and return) to the pump i cant quiet remember wich is the feed i gues its all the ones above

Oh yeah the witches are around $12 at any autozone or kragen