Ramptruck Help with 175" Wheel base?

[Skirkpat]

I decided to go with the Ramptruck idea for the one ton, Any suggestions on the build would be appreciated greatly....I like C-30's black one, but do not know if I should go with more for more of a wedge shape instead of being level in front of the rear tires? I would prefer it to be level.

My wheelbase is 175" center to center.

I aleady have a 12 foot flatbed that extends about 6 inches past the end of the frame. and plan on dove tailing out anothe 3-4 feet.

Does any one have any problems with the rear of their bed hitting the ground on hills?

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

[67_C-30]

On a real steep hill or driveway mine will scrub a little, but the biggest problem is the angle iron they used to build the frame extensions for the dove. The tyip that angle is what scrubs because it is only 13" off the ground. I am going trim off one of these days, but truthfully it scrubs so little that I've never considered it a big deal.

I went and took some measurements and pics for you, so maybe it will help you out.

This is angle iron under the bottom that scrubs sometimes. It measures 13" from the ground. That rear frame section could have been designed a lot better, but I didn't build it, so I get by with it.


The piece of channel on the rear the tail lights are reciever are mounted measures about 16" to the ground. I've never scrubbed it.





The center of the axle to the rear of the dove is 90".



A 5 ft ramp is fairly close to the same angle as the dove, and helps with dead cars rolling off. It had longer ramps when I got it, and non running cars would roll down and kinda stop sometimes. It works much better with these for hauling junkers. The angle that the ramps hook unto measures 21".





I have D rings and 1/4" thick chain hook slots for securing the cars. I have some of the hook slots in the front of the bed as well.



I think with rear designed a little differently, you could get away with another foot or so of the length. The angle of the dove would be a little less, but if you if stay close to these dimensions, I think it will work great for you. If you need anymore info or pics, just give me a shout!

[67_C-30]

BTW, go AT LEAST 16' and preferrably 17'. Mine is 16, and I would be much happier if it was 17'. Less than 16' would be limit what you could tow, because unlike a 16' car trailer, your 16' starts at the headache rack, and you can't hang the bumper over the front rail like you can on a trailer.

[Skirkpat]

Thank you sir, that is a big help!

If I put a 7ft. dovetail on it , and make it 18 ft. 6 in. I should be able to get just abut any thing on it I want.

How wide is your bed ?

[67_C-30]

I shoulda checked that today too, but IIRC it is 7 ft 4 in. from the outside edge. For 6 years now I have been using a used Warn 8000# electric winch but its getting weak. I am going to upgrade to probably a Ramsey 12,000# or 15,000# recovery winch. I have another battery in the passenger side too body and I use a later model (80's) internal regulated 105 amp alternator. I highly recommend getting a 15' winch control cable or remote controller for the winch. I have had towed hundreds of cars and truck (literally) and I've had the cable come loose a handful of times, and you don't what to be in line with that badboy! I have considered swapping over to PTO winch, but when I'm by myself, I can drive the cars up there until they get on the truck with the remote. When you pull junk that flat and coming off the rim tires and/or locked brake drums, you have to help them up there sometimes., Like paw-paw used to say, "They jus don't do right!"

[Skirkpat]

I know what PaPa was talking about, I have a friend who used to scrap alot a couple of years ago, he did some crazy stuff with his little harbor freight winch, he would double it up on a block and tackle and pull cars without wheels up on his gooseneck trailer. used to amaze me, it eventually stopped working (imagine that)....but he worked it when it ran!!!!

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

I know what PaPa was talking about, I have a friend who used to scrap alot a couple of years ago, he did some crazy stuff with his little harbor freight winch, he would double it up on a block and tackle and pull cars without wheels up on his gooseneck trailer. used to amaze me, it eventually stopped working (imagine that)....but he worked it when it ran!!!!

Not using a snatch block when I should probably killed my winch, but with number of cars I pulled, I cannot complain. I pulled this beast out of the woods when I sold it with 2 front flat tires and no rear tires at all without the snatch block (yeah, I know, I know). The curb weight on the car is advertised at 4600# and it an extra 455 Buick and TH400 in the trunk.

[IMG]http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd85/67_C-...

[IMG]http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd85/67_C-...

[67_C-30]

Oh, one more thing, whatever you do, fight the temptation and DO NOT deck it with diamond tread. My first ramps were diamond tread and is astonishing how much more strain it puts on the winch to pull a car with no wheels are tires up there. The diamond tread would actually cause the ramps to pull up on the deck of the truck pretty often - then you have to start over. That has not happened one single time since I went with a smooth decked ramp. Even if the ramps didn't come off, the car or truck would shake when the rotor/frame came across every single nub on the diamond tread. Half of the people that see my truck say, "Man, it would be nice if the deck was diamond tread." It would look better, but I wouldn't have one!

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

Oh, one more thing, whatever you do, fight the temptation and DO NOT deck it with diamond tread. My first ramps were diamond tread and is astonishing how much more strain it puts on the winch to pull a car with no wheels are tires up there. The diamond tread would actually cause the ramps to pull up on the deck of the truck pretty often - then you have to start over. That has not happened one single time since I went with a smooth decked ramp. Even if the ramps didn't come off, the car or truck would shake when the rotor/frame came across every single nub on the diamond tread. Half of the people that see my truck say, "Man, it would be nice if the deck was diamond tread." It would look better, but I wouldn't have one!

Good to know..Do you know what guage steel your floor is? There is a used steel place here in K.C. , it is owned by Ed Asners (Mary Tyler Moore Show)brother. They charge .30 a pound. and have a pretty good selection of angle and tube, but I will probably buy new sheets for the floor. I am trying to keep the weight down as much as possible for obvious reasons.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

Good to know..Do you know what guage steel your floor is? There is a used steel place here in K.C. , it is owned by Ed Asners (Mary Tyler Moore Show)brother. They charge .30 a pound. and have a pretty good selection of angle and tube, but I will probably buy new sheets for the floor. I am trying to keep the weight down as much as possible for obvious reasons.

Mine is actually a little heavy because it has been decked twice. It was this way when I got it, and it adds a lot of weight. The original deck was too thin probably 14 gauge and really dented up, so the PO just redecked over it with 10 gauge which is OK. 1/8" would be fine as well. It weighs 8800# unloaded without me in it, so a 4500# car or truck, a couple big guys, and bunch of chains and stuff easily puts you close to 14,000#. I have towed another car on a car trailer behind it, but I quickly discovered it needs better brakes for that, so I stopped doing it. I'm going to swap over to late 80's discs one of these days because they are bigger than even the 71-72's, and both are way better that my drums. The drums work fine for a single car/truck though.