Removing Heads, need help

[Low84]

I finally got my hands on a brand new set of replacement heads. I got the manifolds off and most everything else too. I just realized I have no clue how to remove the distributor

How do you remove the distributor from the manifold?

[71swb4x4]

There is one bolt to the left of the distributor (as you are looking at it from the front of the truck). That bolt goes through a metal clamp that holds the distributor in. Loosen the bolt, slide the clamp back (or pull it out all-together), and then pull the distributor out.

[Restrorob]

Mark the distributor housing where the rotor is pointing before removal, Don't turn the engine over with the distributor out. Then all you have to do is align the rotor to the mark you made and re-install it into the engine.

Doing this eliminates having to re-time everything.

[Low84]

Thanks for the help guys, it's out already. I'm hoping the engine isn't in too bad a shape

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

Mark the distributor housing where the rotor is pointing before removal, Don't turn the engine over with the distributor out. Then all you have to do is align the rotor to the mark you made and re-install it into the engine.

Doing this eliminates having to re-time everything.

clarification- you will still need to time it, but this will save you the trouble TDC or putting it back 180 degrees out. Putting it back in will get your very close to the original timing (whatever it was before removal)

[Low84]

It just occured to me, but will simply replacing the heads and gasket solve the problem of a blown head gasket?

I don't have to send the block to get resurfaced right? (please say no )

This is as far as we got on Sunday:


and I do have brand new heads and gaskets ready to go in:


I'm kind of in a bind, I have no running vehicle right now and really need to get this thing up and running ASAP

[78 Chevyrado]

yes, this will fix you up, the block should be fine, just make sure the block is extremely clean-as-you-can-get-it and smooth where the gasket goes and use a quality gasket.

[old Chevy guy]

I had one once that leaked for a while before it became undrivable,hydrolocked one day, I had the heads checked and surfaced but the block was a little pitted.It turned out alright though it didnt wind up leaking,but Iwas a little scared.It was a P,I,T,A to do ,it was in a van.

[Low84]

Originally Posted by 78 Chevyrado

yes, this will fix you up, the block should be fine, just make sure the block is extremely clean-as-you-can-get-it and smooth where the gasket goes and use a quality gasket.

Thanks for the reassuring words. Will using a gasket scraper suffice? I'm guessing a light sanding would probably make matters worse?

Originally Posted by old Chevy guy

I had one once that leaked for a while before it became undrivable,hydrolocked one day, I had the heads checked and surfaced but the block was a little pitted.It turned out alright though it didnt wind up leaking,but Iwas a little scared.It was a P,I,T,A to do ,it was in a van.

I bet, the family car used to be a Chevy Goodtimes Van with a 350. I was too small work on anything then, but I still remember how tight the engine sat in there, that and the fact that half of it was recessed into the firewall

[Storm Chaser]

the family car used to be a Chevy Goodtimes Van

I bet that thing was DIN-O-MITE!

[73chevyman]

looks like your doing the cam to heres a couple of videos for ya

YouTube - Valve Lash Adjustment Video - Engine...

YouTube - Camshaft Break In Procedure Video -...

YouTube - How to Install Distributor Video-Engine...

hope this will help you out

[73chevyman]

by the way if your doing the cam take a look at you timing chain might want to replace it if your that far

[78 Chevyrado]

Originally Posted by Low84

Thanks for the reassuring words. Will using a gasket scraper suffice? I'm guessing a light sanding would probably make matters worse?

Yeah a scraper will do fine, just don't gouge the surface. I wouldn't sand it, it may cause surface irregularities. The surface won't LOOK clean and new, even if it is smooth enough. just feel it with your fingertips, they'll tell you if you missed anything.

[Low84]

Alright guys I had my birthday get in the way this weekend so I didn't get to put in work on the truck so I'm trying to make up for it today.

I already taped off the ports on the intake side of the heads to prevent debris from getting in. I also bought these:

For the head gakets (copper)

and one "Super Blue Gasket Maker" for the intake manifold gasket and to help seal at the front and rear part of the manifold.


Now here is my question, do I just aplly the Gasket Shellac on both sides of the gasket and bolt the head to the block? Will this be enough? Or should I also put some of the Super Blue (on the block side of the gasket) on there for a better seal?

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by Low84

Alright guys I had my birthday get in the way this weekend so I didn't get to put in work on the truck so I'm trying to make up for it today.

I already taped off the ports on the intake side of the heads to prevent debris from getting in. I also bought these:

For the head gakets (copper)

and one "Super Blue Gasket Maker" for the intake manifold gasket and to help seal at the front and rear part of the manifold.


Now here is my question, do I just aplly the Gasket Shellac on both sides of the gasket and bolt the head to the block? Will this be enough? Or should I also put some of the Super Blue (on the block side of the gasket) on there for a better seal?

Do not put ANYTHING on the block surface after you clean it. Install the head gaskets dry. There should be dowel pins to hold the head gaskets in place.

As for the intake I personally use the black silicone because it just looks better to me. When you put your intake gaskets on all you need is to put enuff silly on the heads to hold the gaskets on so you can install the intake. When you buy your gaskets it will come with end gaskets for the intake do not use them. Run you a beed of silly along the ends of the block and make sure you overlap the ends of the intake gaskets. This shoud fix you right up. Take your time and you will do fine.
Good luck.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Low84

It just occured to me, but will simply replacing the heads and gasket solve the problem of a blown head gasket?

I don't have to send the block to get resurfaced right? (please say no )

"It depends" upon how badly blown, where it is blown, and how long it ran that way. I have seen head gaskets blown out between cylinders where it was driven quite some time before the tear-down. This can erode the block or the heads or both.....maybe not even leaking water.
Look for charred/black crispy places, especially between the cylinders.

[Low84]

Originally Posted by cjracing15

Do not put ANYTHING on the block surface after you clean it. Install the head gaskets dry. There should be dowel pins to hold the head gaskets in place.

As for the intake I personally use the black silicone because it just looks better to me. When you put your intake gaskets on all you need is to put enuff silly on the heads to hold the gaskets on so you can install the intake. When you buy your gaskets it will come with end gaskets for the intake do not use them. Run you a beed of silly along the ends of the block and make sure you overlap the ends of the intake gaskets. This shoud fix you right up. Take your time and you will do fine.
Good luck.

I just saw that a couple hours ago, I feel retarded now Thanks for the advice, it's getting dark out and I'm calling it a day.

[Low84]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

"It depends" upon how badly blown, where it is blown, and how long it ran that way. I have seen head gaskets blown out between cylinders where it was driven quite some time before the tear-down. This can erode the block or the heads or both.....maybe not even leaking water.
Look for charred/black crispy places, especially between the cylinders.

I didn't travel more than 10 ft after the head gasket completely gave out. The family mechanic saw me working and stopped by for a few minutes. Turns out the heads aren't cracked but a valve was. He saw the engine through and said the engine appears to be in good condition and should be fine after the re-assembly.

I'm really hoping so

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by Low84

I just saw that a couple hours ago, I feel retarded now Thanks for the advice, it's getting dark out and I'm calling it a day.

Do not feel retarded, you will never know if you do not ask . But do not put anything on your head gaskets at all. How far did you get?

[Low84]

...right at applying that shellac thing between the heads and gaskets

It was kicking my ass cause it kept moving around on me, so I held it in place enough for it to dry slightly and then carefully placed that surface down on the work table to let them dry in place. I figured I wasn't going to get the truck ready for tomorrow so I'm fixing up the car instead.

[cjracing15]

Does it have the dowel pins in the block?

[Low84]

Originally Posted by cjracing15

Does it have the dowel pins in the block?

Yup

[cjracing15]

Alrighty then. I guess I have been lucky and never have had problems with the gasket moving around on me if I had the dowels in the block.

Good luck on it.

[Low84]

Originally Posted by cjracing15

Alrighty then. I guess I have been lucky and never have had problems with the gasket moving around on me if I had the dowels in the block.

Good luck on it.

No you're right. But I jumped the gun trying to get the truck ready and put the gasket on the head INSTEAD of putting it on the block first.

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by Low84

No you're right. But I jumped the gun trying to get the truck ready and put the gasket on the head INSTEAD of putting it on the block first.

OH it is now all becomming more clear now.