DASH PAD removal question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

c10crazy · 12-14-2002, 10:18 AM

How hard is it to remove the pad?. What is the easiest way to do this and any shortcuts would be great. I am also considering a dash "CAP" from LMC that fits over the existing pad but would prefer original pad if I can install this.

Andy4639 · 12-14-2002, 10:32 AM

The dash pad is held in place with studs that go through the metal dash and have nuts underneath the dash. You have to be able to get up to where the dash curves back toward the windsheild and take them loose. If I remember right there are about 10 of these to take loose, you need the cluster out, glove box to get them all. You may also have to take the radio out. Hope this helps, if it where mine I would go with the new pad, the covers aren't what they are made out to be. I installed one for my dad awhile back and it looked ok, for him, but I didn't like it. Hope this helps.

c10crazy · 12-14-2002, 10:37 AM

Did the cap you installed for your father come from LMC?. I think barn9 installed one and liked it. If the cap is alot easier I would do it.

PanelDeland · 12-14-2002, 11:01 AM

I found a 1/4 in drive ratchet helped a lot when I did mine.It is a time consuming operation and if you are going to change out defrost ducting, radio/stereo, glovebox or anything else in the dash now is the time.I spray bombed the dash and replaced defrost ducts because everything was easier to get to that way.Generally speaking I try to plan a project that requires removal of so many components to maximize the effort.

Andy4639 · 12-14-2002, 11:08 AM

It just wasn't what I would do if I plan on keeping it for awhile, you know. The cover is a temparary fix if you ask me. I personaly didn't like it, but thats what my dad wanted to do, so that's what I did.

Vince M · 12-14-2002, 02:55 PM

There are seven studs under the dash pad and four screws in the front that are accesable. The nuts are placed symetrical so they are easy to find. One in the center, one at each edge of the dash and glovebox, one at the center of the dash and glovebox, and one in each corner. I've done two now and the first was an air cab with minimal removal. It was hard to get at the nuts but not impossible. I removed some stuff and somebody mentioned a 1/4" drive ratchet. I would add some extensions and a universal would help. Take your time. The nuts are 3/8" speednuts. The second truck I had stripped the dash and everything was easy to get at. I think the center A/c vent had to come out to get to the center nut. Not sure though...old age again..

I would replace the dash pad not cover it but that's me.....

XXL · 12-14-2002, 04:24 PM

I've had mine in and out so many times over the years it seems easy... but I probably have forgotten how loud I was cussing the first time I tried it

While the other guys have suggested extensions and such, I prefer to lay on the floor and just reach up to the nut locations with a socket in hand... just the socket. I've got some that are knurled so you can get a good finger grip on them. Then I work my hand up and around all the foo that's behind the dash and start turning. It's about a 15 minute procedure each way. If you can't get comfortable laying on the floorboard, drink a beer or three. Then when it takes longer than 15 minutes and your fingers and knuckles are bleeding you won't really care

Good luck with it, and definitely go with the full pad replacement,

Kenneth

special70gmc · 12-14-2002, 06:11 PM

how do i get the cluster out i took all bezel screws out but it wont move can someones shed some light on this 4 me? thanks anyone

XXL · 12-14-2002, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by special70gmc
how do i get the cluster out i took all bezel screws out but it wont move can someones shed some light on this 4 me? thanks anyone

There's a nut on the wiper switch that needs to come off and you'll have to pull the headlight handle off. To get the headlight switch off, pull the headlights to the ON position, then reach under the dash and feel around for a small button on the top of the switch. Push down on that switch and pull the headlight handle the rest of the way out. After you get the bezel off, make sure you push the headlight handle back in so you can cut off the lights and not run down your battery.

Kenneth

dashadow · 12-14-2002, 07:28 PM

I was able to get my dash pad off a little easier by tearing as much of the padding off as I could to start with. What the heck,it was junk anyway. That exposed an opening or two and I was able to use needle nose pliers to turn the nuts. Yes it is slow go but I didn't have to take out the cluster. Reaching underneath and snaking your way around everything worked for me on the rest. Im' not saying this way is best,just offering an option.

c10crazy · 12-15-2002, 12:51 PM

Thanks guys!

12-14-2002, 10:18 AM	#1
c10crazy Like a Rock! Join Date: May 2002 Location: USA Posts: 1,092	DASH PAD removal question How hard is it to remove the pad?. What is the easiest way to do this and any shortcuts would be great. I am also considering a dash "CAP" from LMC that fits over the existing pad but would prefer original pad if I can install this. __________________ 69 LWB Runs great - work in progress Mess with me and you mess with the whole trailer park!

12-14-2002, 10:32 AM	#2
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,936	Dash Pad The dash pad is held in place with studs that go through the metal dash and have nuts underneath the dash. You have to be able to get up to where the dash curves back toward the windsheild and take them loose. If I remember right there are about 10 of these to take loose, you need the cluster out, glove box to get them all. You may also have to take the radio out. Hope this helps, if it where mine I would go with the new pad, the covers aren't what they are made out to be. I installed one for my dad awhile back and it looked ok, for him, but I didn't like it. Hope this helps. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

12-14-2002, 10:37 AM	#3
c10crazy Like a Rock! Join Date: May 2002 Location: USA Posts: 1,092	Did the cap you installed for your father come from LMC?. I think barn9 installed one and liked it. If the cap is alot easier I would do it. __________________ 69 LWB Runs great - work in progress Mess with me and you mess with the whole trailer park!

12-14-2002, 11:01 AM	#4
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	I found a 1/4 in drive ratchet helped a lot when I did mine.It is a time consuming operation and if you are going to change out defrost ducting, radio/stereo, glovebox or anything else in the dash now is the time.I spray bombed the dash and replaced defrost ducts because everything was easier to get to that way.Generally speaking I try to plan a project that requires removal of so many components to maximize the effort. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

12-14-2002, 11:08 AM	#5
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,936	Dash cover It just wasn't what I would do if I plan on keeping it for awhile, you know. The cover is a temparary fix if you ask me. I personaly didn't like it, but thats what my dad wanted to do, so that's what I did. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

12-14-2002, 02:55 PM	#6
Vince M Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,076	There are seven studs under the dash pad and four screws in the front that are accesable. The nuts are placed symetrical so they are easy to find. One in the center, one at each edge of the dash and glovebox, one at the center of the dash and glovebox, and one in each corner. I've done two now and the first was an air cab with minimal removal. It was hard to get at the nuts but not impossible. I removed some stuff and somebody mentioned a 1/4" drive ratchet. I would add some extensions and a universal would help. Take your time. The nuts are 3/8" speednuts. The second truck I had stripped the dash and everything was easy to get at. I think the center A/c vent had to come out to get to the center nut. Not sure though...old age again.. I would replace the dash pad not cover it but that's me..... __________________ ............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.

12-14-2002, 04:24 PM	#7
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	I've had mine in and out so many times over the years it seems easy... but I probably have forgotten how loud I was cussing the first time I tried it While the other guys have suggested extensions and such, I prefer to lay on the floor and just reach up to the nut locations with a socket in hand... just the socket. I've got some that are knurled so you can get a good finger grip on them. Then I work my hand up and around all the foo that's behind the dash and start turning. It's about a 15 minute procedure each way. If you can't get comfortable laying on the floorboard, drink a beer or three. Then when it takes longer than 15 minutes and your fingers and knuckles are bleeding you won't really care Good luck with it, and definitely go with the full pad replacement, Kenneth __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

12-14-2002, 06:11 PM	#8
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	how do i get the cluster out i took all bezel screws out but it wont move can someones shed some light on this 4 me? thanks anyone __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

12-14-2002, 07:28 PM	#10
dashadow Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Alabama Posts: 90	dash pad I was able to get my dash pad off a little easier by tearing as much of the padding off as I could to start with. What the heck,it was junk anyway. That exposed an opening or two and I was able to use needle nose pliers to turn the nuts. Yes it is slow go but I didn't have to take out the cluster. Reaching underneath and snaking your way around everything worked for me on the rest. Im' not saying this way is best,just offering an option. __________________ '71; 250; 3 on a tree GMC

12-15-2002, 12:51 PM	#11
c10crazy Like a Rock! Join Date: May 2002 Location: USA Posts: 1,092	Thanks guys! __________________ 69 LWB Runs great - work in progress Mess with me and you mess with the whole trailer park!



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.