any luck with rebuilds from parts stores? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

RED72blazer · 12-16-2002, 08:32 PM

Has anyone bought an engine from action auto or others? I think they are are around 1700.00 with exchange. or would it be better to rebuid one of the three chev 350s I have?

neonlarry · 12-16-2002, 08:48 PM

You can buy a basic GM crate 350 for less than $1300. Also, at least around here, you can get a re built 350 with good parts in it for about $1200. The thing about the parts store engines, you never know if they have new parts, or it the old stuff still looked good enough. That's just my opinion though, someone else may know more about it

onetoncrewcab · 12-16-2002, 08:55 PM

I've always just rebuilt my own. I have a machine shop do the boring, the head work, install the cam bearings, and check the rods and I put the engine together. I've gotten my last kits out of Northern Auto Parts in Sioux City IA. They seem to have pretty good prices. I think between the rebuild kit, machine work and new plugs, wires, dist cap and oil, I usually end up with about $600-$700 invested.
I'd do the head work, but I don't have all the tools to do them.
Those 350 kits are around $150 for a complete kit with pistons.
MJ

RED72blazer · 12-16-2002, 08:56 PM

where's a good place to get a basic gm engine In the NW? What about if I just spent the money on a rebuid at a machine shop? I have lots of parts

72 stock intake
torker II
72 q-jet
edelbrock carb
rebuilt distibutor with petronix and msd cap
headers

I also have a complete 80 350 out of a suburban. and the engine that my blazer had when i got it. and the one that is in it now which is bored .60 over but spun a bearing. Which one should i use? how do I check what the heads are so I can find out what one is the best?

thanks for any input

stllookn · 12-16-2002, 10:19 PM

The GM crates used to be about $1200 for a long block with valve covers but Scoggin Dickey is now up to $1480 (Jim Pace is $1350)plus a $100 core charge for a 249 hp Goodwrench 4-bolt crate motor. You will have to add $195 for shipping to WA State...now you are up to $1775! But you get a 3-yr 50,000 mile warranty on a new engine from GM as long as it goes into a vehicle that originally had a 350. You might check some of the local GM dealers to see what they offer. NAPA and other auto parts stores like Schucks have locally "rebuilt" engines with a warranty. I would check them out. Check out Summit and Jegs too for rebuild kits and complete motors.

With all the options available it really makes no sense to do your own engine unless it is something very unique, you have the tools, or you want to do it for cultural enrichment. That is what I am doing with my sb400. A friend has a low mileage pro-built sb406 with Dart heads and all the goodies that came out of a local show truck for sale...$2500! I cannot build my engine for that so why even try? Because I want to do it for cultural enrichment...there is no other explanation!

Ratpowerd67 · 12-16-2002, 10:42 PM

i bought my crate motor from scoggins about 5 months ago. i paid $1300 shipped to my work with no core charge. its 100% brand new. the hp is around 270. they said with a cam change and my new headers and intake i can hit 300 hp easy, but the cam change would void my warranty if something went wrong , unless i put the old one back in.........

junkyardjohn · 12-17-2002, 12:15 AM

STILLOOKIN -- CULTURAL ENRICHMENT -- I LIKE THAT. I HAVE AN AWFUL HARD TIME COMING UP WITH A GOOD ANSWER WHEN PEOPLE ASK ME WHY I'M ALWAYS REBUILDING, INSTEAD OF BUYING A NEW CRATE MOTOR. CULTURAL INRICHMENT -- CULTURAL INRICHMENT -- I HOPE YOU DON'T MIND IF I USE THAT COMEBACK.

mikep · 12-17-2002, 01:21 AM

Well, lets see. A new crate engine gets you unknown loose tolerance clearances, cheapest bidder production parts, questionable machine work and no choice of compression ratio, head flow rates , or camshaft specifications. You know...the stuff that makes the engine so it doesnt run like a Mexican Targetmaster . Price might come to closer to $2000 by the time you are all done if you use high quality parts from reputable manufacturers but the clearances would be right, the heads would be new and the bottom end rock solid and you would be looking at closer to 350 HP if thats what you wanted.

RED72blazer · 12-17-2002, 04:27 AM

I have about 2 grand to spend . I just don't know what I'm doing. I've never built an engine before or done any real work involving the internals of a engine. what would be a good combo?

mikep · 12-17-2002, 08:09 AM

Since you have someone to walk you through the process who lives right across the sound and has all the tools you'll need this can be a great learning process for you. What sort of driving do you do? Whats it going in and what are the tranny and gear ratios's? What sort of gas do you want to use etc.? Give us all the gory details.

mikep · 12-17-2002, 10:40 AM

Actually Ive been half thinking of selling the motor in my truck and building a different one. Its got 4500 miles on it since it was built in August.Runs like the proverbial raped ape and gets about 11 mppg in town with a 600 holley. You could even test drive it for a day and its complete from manifold to pan. Accesories and distributor /carb not included.

.030" over 4 blt main bock. decked. ARP main studs

.125 domed sealed power HE pistons for 9.5:1 compression. Childs and albert moly rings file fit tight

Forged Steel chevrolet crankshaft fully professionally balanced and ground 10/20

Scat 4340 I beam full floating rods with ARP bolts

204/214 cam . .420/.440 lift . Lots of Torque

World Product SR heads . Some of the best flowing heads on the market with 170 cc intake ports. Guide plates and screw in studs . ARP head bolts

Edelbrock EPS performer intake

Fully assembled and broken in . Never been hot and never over revved.

Hi volume hi pressure oil pump. Its on "H" ALL the time

$2400 plus your old core. Believe me Ive got a LOT more than that in it.

RED72blazer · 12-17-2002, 05:53 PM

well the engine would be going into my 72 blazer. it's a daily driver for now. with the old engine in her now she was pretty quick. she was atleast fast enough to beat the ricer's at my school. I'm not sure what kind of rear gears it has, but I do have a brand new th-350 with a stage II shift kit in it , probably with around a 1000 miles on it. I'm not to terribly concerned with the gas mileage. but the higher it is the better. I try to put in 92 octane when ever I can, so I don't have a proplem paying for good gas.

mikep I would be very grateful for any help you could give me. I wouldn't mind taking a look at that engine too. Why do you want to get rid of it?

p.s. your truck looks pretty sweet from the little pic. Do you have more pictures?

RED72blazer · 12-17-2002, 10:06 PM

How much would it cost to build a good short block? that I could upgrade later with new heads, cam, intake?

mikep · 12-17-2002, 10:27 PM

Dude, there is absolutley nothing wrong with my engine . Its got just a few thousand miles on it and its tight with a capital "T". Putting out in the 400 ft lb rage and around 340-350 HP .Its got a bulletproof bottom end and excellent flowing hi torque heads. I build 4 or 5 engines a year on average and they all turn out great because I try to built good combinations in view of what I want the finished product to achieve .

In all honesty whats going on is I am looking at picking up a 6-71 blower next year and I'm going to start building a motor specifically for that application. Big ports, lower compression, rock solid bottom end etc. It'll cost me about $3800 for the engine components. The wife lets me have one at a time so I'll sell this one off and build a different one.

I had more pics of the truck until a few days ago when I wiped out my hard drive. Your welcome to come over and take a look at it and go for a ride on the weekend.

A good shortblock would run you about

$250 in machine work
$200 in pistons
$130 in gaskets and bearings
$210 in rods for good scat rods. last thing you want to skimp on is rods
$160 to have it balanced. Its worth it for longevity
$100 for a cam and lifters.
$50 for good rings
$80 for a regrind on the crank or $150 for a new scat crank. Steel cranks run $450 or so
Timing chain and etc stuff $100-$200

The heads are what make the motor though. Buy good heads once and you'll always be happy you did. Theres a world of difference between a set of vortecs or WP S/R's and a set of rebuilt stockers. Decent heads will run you $600 - $800 . Vortecs are cheap right now but need some mods and some extra eqpt that drive up the end price a bit.

Tuffold72 · 12-18-2002, 04:27 AM

you have mail!

RED72blazer · 12-18-2002, 06:51 PM

mikep I'm gonna try and get my dads sub this weekend, so I can take a look at the engine, and your truck. I'll let ypu know.

red72

mikep · 12-18-2002, 08:23 PM

Get on over here brother. Whether you want the motor or not I'm always up to taking folks out for a ride. 400 ft lbs of torque in a fast revving small block is fun to show off.

Give me a call

360-895-8316

12-16-2002, 08:32 PM	#1
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	any luck with rebuilds from parts stores? Has anyone bought an engine from action auto or others? I think they are are around 1700.00 with exchange. or would it be better to rebuid one of the three chev 350s I have? __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage.

12-16-2002, 08:48 PM	#2
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	You can buy a basic GM crate 350 for less than $1300. Also, at least around here, you can get a re built 350 with good parts in it for about $1200. The thing about the parts store engines, you never know if they have new parts, or it the old stuff still looked good enough. That's just my opinion though, someone else may know more about it __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

12-16-2002, 08:56 PM	#4
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	where's a good place to get a basic gm engine In the NW? What about if I just spent the money on a rebuid at a machine shop? I have lots of parts 72 stock intake torker II 72 q-jet edelbrock carb rebuilt distibutor with petronix and msd cap headers I also have a complete 80 350 out of a suburban. and the engine that my blazer had when i got it. and the one that is in it now which is bored .60 over but spun a bearing. Which one should i use? how do I check what the heads are so I can find out what one is the best? thanks for any input __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage. Last edited by RED72blazer; 12-16-2002 at 09:08 PM.

12-16-2002, 10:19 PM	#5
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	The GM crates used to be about $1200 for a long block with valve covers but Scoggin Dickey is now up to $1480 (Jim Pace is $1350)plus a $100 core charge for a 249 hp Goodwrench 4-bolt crate motor. You will have to add $195 for shipping to WA State...now you are up to $1775! But you get a 3-yr 50,000 mile warranty on a new engine from GM as long as it goes into a vehicle that originally had a 350. You might check some of the local GM dealers to see what they offer. NAPA and other auto parts stores like Schucks have locally "rebuilt" engines with a warranty. I would check them out. Check out Summit and Jegs too for rebuild kits and complete motors. With all the options available it really makes no sense to do your own engine unless it is something very unique, you have the tools, or you want to do it for cultural enrichment. That is what I am doing with my sb400. A friend has a low mileage pro-built sb406 with Dart heads and all the goodies that came out of a local show truck for sale...$2500! I cannot build my engine for that so why even try? Because I want to do it for cultural enrichment...there is no other explanation! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

12-16-2002, 10:42 PM	#6
Ratpowerd67 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Trenton ,Texas Posts: 328	i bought my crate motor from scoggins about 5 months ago. i paid $1300 shipped to my work with no core charge. its 100% brand new. the hp is around 270. they said with a cam change and my new headers and intake i can hit 300 hp easy, but the cam change would void my warranty if something went wrong , unless i put the old one back in......... Attached Images

12-16-2002, 08:55 PM	#3
onetoncrewcab One of my kids. Cute eh? Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Mitchell, SD Posts: 1,286	I've always just rebuilt my own. I have a machine shop do the boring, the head work, install the cam bearings, and check the rods and I put the engine together. I've gotten my last kits out of Northern Auto Parts in Sioux City IA. They seem to have pretty good prices. I think between the rebuild kit, machine work and new plugs, wires, dist cap and oil, I usually end up with about $600-$700 invested. I'd do the head work, but I don't have all the tools to do them. Those 350 kits are around $150 for a complete kit with pistons. MJ

12-17-2002, 12:15 AM	#7
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	STILLOOKIN -- CULTURAL ENRICHMENT -- I LIKE THAT. I HAVE AN AWFUL HARD TIME COMING UP WITH A GOOD ANSWER WHEN PEOPLE ASK ME WHY I'M ALWAYS REBUILDING, INSTEAD OF BUYING A NEW CRATE MOTOR. CULTURAL INRICHMENT -- CULTURAL INRICHMENT -- I HOPE YOU DON'T MIND IF I USE THAT COMEBACK. __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

12-17-2002, 01:21 AM	#8
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Well, lets see. A new crate engine gets you unknown loose tolerance clearances, cheapest bidder production parts, questionable machine work and no choice of compression ratio, head flow rates , or camshaft specifications. You know...the stuff that makes the engine so it doesnt run like a Mexican Targetmaster . Price might come to closer to $2000 by the time you are all done if you use high quality parts from reputable manufacturers but the clearances would be right, the heads would be new and the bottom end rock solid and you would be looking at closer to 350 HP if thats what you wanted. __________________ No truck :-(

12-17-2002, 04:27 AM	#9
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	I have about 2 grand to spend . I just don't know what I'm doing. I've never built an engine before or done any real work involving the internals of a engine. what would be a good combo? __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage.

12-17-2002, 08:09 AM	#10
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Since you have someone to walk you through the process who lives right across the sound and has all the tools you'll need this can be a great learning process for you. What sort of driving do you do? Whats it going in and what are the tranny and gear ratios's? What sort of gas do you want to use etc.? Give us all the gory details. __________________ No truck :-(

12-17-2002, 10:40 AM	#11
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Actually Ive been half thinking of selling the motor in my truck and building a different one. Its got 4500 miles on it since it was built in August.Runs like the proverbial raped ape and gets about 11 mppg in town with a 600 holley. You could even test drive it for a day and its complete from manifold to pan. Accesories and distributor /carb not included. .030" over 4 blt main bock. decked. ARP main studs .125 domed sealed power HE pistons for 9.5:1 compression. Childs and albert moly rings file fit tight Forged Steel chevrolet crankshaft fully professionally balanced and ground 10/20 Scat 4340 I beam full floating rods with ARP bolts 204/214 cam . .420/.440 lift . Lots of Torque World Product SR heads . Some of the best flowing heads on the market with 170 cc intake ports. Guide plates and screw in studs . ARP head bolts Edelbrock EPS performer intake Fully assembled and broken in . Never been hot and never over revved. Hi volume hi pressure oil pump. Its on "H" ALL the time $2400 plus your old core. Believe me Ive got a LOT more than that in it. __________________ No truck :-(

12-17-2002, 05:53 PM	#12
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	well the engine would be going into my 72 blazer. it's a daily driver for now. with the old engine in her now she was pretty quick. she was atleast fast enough to beat the ricer's at my school. I'm not sure what kind of rear gears it has, but I do have a brand new th-350 with a stage II shift kit in it , probably with around a 1000 miles on it. I'm not to terribly concerned with the gas mileage. but the higher it is the better. I try to put in 92 octane when ever I can, so I don't have a proplem paying for good gas. mikep I would be very grateful for any help you could give me. I wouldn't mind taking a look at that engine too. Why do you want to get rid of it? p.s. your truck looks pretty sweet from the little pic. Do you have more pictures? __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage. Last edited by RED72blazer; 12-17-2002 at 05:55 PM.

12-17-2002, 10:06 PM	#13
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	How much would it cost to build a good short block? that I could upgrade later with new heads, cam, intake? __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage.

12-17-2002, 10:27 PM	#14
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Dude, there is absolutley nothing wrong with my engine . Its got just a few thousand miles on it and its tight with a capital "T". Putting out in the 400 ft lb rage and around 340-350 HP .Its got a bulletproof bottom end and excellent flowing hi torque heads. I build 4 or 5 engines a year on average and they all turn out great because I try to built good combinations in view of what I want the finished product to achieve . In all honesty whats going on is I am looking at picking up a 6-71 blower next year and I'm going to start building a motor specifically for that application. Big ports, lower compression, rock solid bottom end etc. It'll cost me about $3800 for the engine components. The wife lets me have one at a time so I'll sell this one off and build a different one. I had more pics of the truck until a few days ago when I wiped out my hard drive. Your welcome to come over and take a look at it and go for a ride on the weekend. A good shortblock would run you about $250 in machine work $200 in pistons $130 in gaskets and bearings $210 in rods for good scat rods. last thing you want to skimp on is rods $160 to have it balanced. Its worth it for longevity $100 for a cam and lifters. $50 for good rings $80 for a regrind on the crank or $150 for a new scat crank. Steel cranks run $450 or so Timing chain and etc stuff $100-$200 The heads are what make the motor though. Buy good heads once and you'll always be happy you did. Theres a world of difference between a set of vortecs or WP S/R's and a set of rebuilt stockers. Decent heads will run you $600 - $800 . Vortecs are cheap right now but need some mods and some extra eqpt that drive up the end price a bit. __________________ No truck :-(

12-18-2002, 04:27 AM	#15
Tuffold72 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Oregon Posts: 69	you have mail!



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

12-18-2002, 06:51 PM	#16
RED72blazer urban fourwheelin Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,007	mikep I'm gonna try and get my dads sub this weekend, so I can take a look at the engine, and your truck. I'll let ypu know. red72 __________________ 1972 K5 Blazer with Cummins 4BT, NV4500 swap in the parts gathering stage.

12-18-2002, 08:23 PM	#17
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Get on over here brother. Whether you want the motor or not I'm always up to taking folks out for a ride. 400 ft lbs of torque in a fast revving small block is fun to show off. Give me a call 360-895-8316 __________________ No truck :-(

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.