Replacing Cab Floor - 72

[cedorris]

I started the major metal work today on my 72 and discovered it has a lot more rust than anticipated.

Both of the front cab supports are destroyed and the cab floor is rusted through in places that are not part of the new patch panels or rockers.

Many places sell entire cab floor replacements for around $500 that would eliminate the rust spots I currently have. These cab floors also include the front and rear cab supports.

I have a few questions:
Has anyone ever used these replacement floors?

Would it be better for me to try and purchase a new cab rather than try and fix my existing cab? My cab does have factory air.

Is it possible to remove the existing cab floor without complete removing the cab from the frame and unbolting the firewall?

[rob32472]

Check out my build project cod fish ebfabman is doing the cab work for me. You will have to unbolt and remove it or atleast raise it, but the firewal does not have to come off. Take a look it will definetly help. There are other threads as well

[ebfabman]

Yes its been done several times. Check out this build....btw, my brother lives in Norman.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317665

[ebfabman]

Hey rob, you have fast fingers.

[chevy29267truck]

best thing is too find a cheap cab or truck with a good floor in it

[cedorris]

Where would you recommend looking for a cab floor replacement panel? LMC has them for around $500 delivered.


What kind of coating do you recommend for the bottom of the new floor?

[chevy29267truck]

ok go on craigslist.org than go too oklahoma city also you can try www.car-parts.com or make a road trip too arkansas or texas

[lchall]

I was kinda in the same boat as you with my floor. I started cutting away for a piece-by-piece repair and kept cutting more and more metal away. I decided to go with the one-piece floor instead. I would definitely make sure to get the floor with the braces installed. It's not that much more and saves a ton of work. I got mine at GMCPaul's for $420 + shipping.

I pretty much followed this how-to by jlaird and it was dead on. Msgross has some real good information in his build thread as well.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...+floor+install

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...58#post2194858

The install is pretty straight forward, but I would think would be difficult without removing the cab. I welded in some bracing and did the repair with the cab on it's back. I needed to/am in the process of replacing the rockers and cab corners and with those removed I think it makes it a lot easier to work with. Then you only have the firewall and back of the cab spot welds to deal with.

Overall the floor is a fantastic piece that pretty much bolts/welds in. There are about 30 or so spot welds at the firewall and about the same on the back panel. The main floor supports have 10-12 spot welds/support. Since I didn't have cab corners or rockers thats about all there is. There are the bolts for the A/B pillars, but those seemed to line right up for me.

I only had a few very minor issues with the floor and all of them had to do with the firewall flange area. None are a big deal at all. I had to make a couple of pie cuts at the outer edges of the firewall flange and at the gas pedal area. I also made a small cut at each side of the bend for the transmission hump. The curve of the floor wasn't quite sharp enough match. The last thing was the angle of the flange. I had to hammer/dolly the flange somewhat to get it to match the angle of the firewall. Not a big deal at all, but it just kinda sucks when you get a big floor all up and aligned and then have to take it all back out to get do the work on the angle.

Here's a few pics of what I did.

[72armyswbtruck]

Now those are some awesome pics.

[Ram-Man]

I wouldnt mess around with trying to piece it together. IMO the full floor with supports is the only way to go. Here is mine
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=floor

[cedorris]

I found a cab that is exactly like mine that the owner claims to be rust free except the passenger side rocker.

It has been blasted and primered.

He is asking $800.

What would you guys recommend? Am I better off going with replacing my own floor and rockers or going with that $800 cab. It seems a bit steep, but I really don't know much about how these things are priced.

Here are some pics of the Cab: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cedorri...7615313997557/

[Joe67]

Originally Posted by chevy29267truck

best thing is too find a cheap cab or truck with a good floor in it

That would be one expensive option

[Joe67]

Originally Posted by lchall

I was kinda in the same boat as you with my floor. I started cutting away for a piece-by-piece repair and kept cutting more and more metal away. I decided to go with the one-piece floor instead. I would definitely make sure to get the floor with the braces installed. It's not that much more and saves a ton of work. I got mine at GMCPaul's for $420 + shipping.

I pretty much followed this how-to by jlaird and it was dead on. Msgross has some real good information in his build thread as well.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...+floor+install

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...58#post2194858

The install is pretty straight forward, but I would think would be difficult without removing the cab. I welded in some bracing and did the repair with the cab on it's back. I needed to/am in the process of replacing the rockers and cab corners and with those removed I think it makes it a lot easier to work with. Then you only have the firewall and back of the cab spot welds to deal with.

Overall the floor is a fantastic piece that pretty much bolts/welds in. There are about 30 or so spot welds at the firewall and about the same on the back panel. The main floor supports have 10-12 spot welds/support. Since I didn't have cab corners or rockers thats about all there is. There are the bolts for the A/B pillars, but those seemed to line right up for me.

I only had a few very minor issues with the floor and all of them had to do with the firewall flange area. None are a big deal at all. I had to make a couple of pie cuts at the outer edges of the firewall flange and at the gas pedal area. I also made a small cut at each side of the bend for the transmission hump. The curve of the floor wasn't quite sharp enough match. The last thing was the angle of the flange. I had to hammer/dolly the flange somewhat to get it to match the angle of the firewall. Not a big deal at all, but it just kinda sucks when you get a big floor all up and aligned and then have to take it all back out to get do the work on the angle.

Great reply! That is what this forum is all about

[tim21391]

check out my build thread
and check out 88jrfan's build thread... him and i's truck's floor were patched

[cedorris]

Here is a picture of the area that is giving me fits



See how the rusted through area creeps up past where the rocker panel covers?

Is there a way to patch this area? My front cab supports are also shot.

[rob32472]

there is a patch panel that covers 4 inches past the rocker all of the vendors have them.

[tim21391]

its called the outer floor extension piece it runs from fire wall to rear of cab.. its about $100 some.. but its worth it.. used it on both sides of my truck..you cant go wrong with it..

[67slammer]

i bought a 1 pc floor from tri pro automotive. it fit like a glove and its nice to buy from another board member. it was about a 4 hour project start to finish.

[cedorris]

Originally Posted by tim21391

its called the outer floor extension piece it runs from fire wall to rear of cab.. its about $100 some.. but its worth it.. used it on both sides of my truck..you cant go wrong with it..

Can you send me a link in a private message to the store where you ordered it?