Cab Bolts Torque

[Hawker7]

Anyone know the proper torque for the front and rear cab bolts using rubber bushings? I tried searching but didn't find anything on it. Someone told me to do 70 for the front and 55 for the back. I did that last night, but that seemed to be a lot.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

The front cab mount bolts torque specification is 50 lb./ft.

The rear cab mount bolts torque specification is 20 lb./ft. (which is the same for the radiator support mounts).

Jim

[Hawker7]

great, thanks. Guess I'll have to go redo them now.

[kxmotox247]

Old thread but I was searching for these specs.

Question: When reassembling a truck that's been taken apart and all mounts replaced, should I hang and gap all sheetmetal and THEN tighten the cab and radiator mounts?

My plan was to tighten the cab up like it's supposed to be and then hang the sheetmetal. What do you guys prefer?

[kxmotox247]

Anyone? So... I went to tighten the bolts tonight and I set the torque wrench to 20. The front ones tightened up right away. The rear ones just kept going... and going... and going... no click of the wrnech. I stopped because the rear cushion lower was really starting to distort. It just seemed to keep compressing beyond what seemed okay to me. Any opinion?

[hugger6933]

Hang all your metal then gap it all then tighten it down IF or WHEN you need to move it you will need those bolts loose so that the things can move freely with out binding. Once all the gaps are set you should be able to tighten it down and check the gaps but they should be still in the same spots if not your only talking minimum shimming needed to get you back right. I have done several post in the last couple of weeks about the sheet metal lining if you get some time you may want to take a look at those post and see if there is anything in there to help you with your current place in your project, it has to do with front end and cab gaps and whatnot. Jim

[kxmotox247]

Thanks! I am working on this today.

[kxmotox247]

Jim - Thank you. I did go back and reread your posts on hanging sheetmetal. Everything is on except for the hood latch and inner fenders. My front frame horns are a little tweaked so the core support bolt holes will need to be wallowed out.

Will putting the inner fenders in change anything as far as gaps? I fought my hood and fenders. The fenders are repro. Hinges, grill, hood and cowl are OEM.

[swamp rat]

I had the same question and gave up on finding an answer, my kit also came with the flat 1/4" thick rubber pads for the bed. I tightened the mounts but they never felt tight as in over 30-40 ft lbs and also started to bulge out a bit so i stopped and made them all about the same as far as compression, when i put the bed on the body lines were only close if i sat the bed directly on the frame. later on I plan to get some body mount shims, the thick hardened type that are about 1/4" thick and put them under the cab mounts and frame and then install the flat rubber pads under the bed

[70blackfish]

did you get your truck going KXmoto???

looks good

[Lee H]

It's a little late but.....

When I reassembled my truck I snugged down the cab, mounted the bed, torqued the cab to specs watching the body lines as each corner was tightened, once it was close to or at spec and the body lines matched and the cab to bed gap was the same on both sides I stopped. Then assembled the front clip.

[kxmotox247]

Originally Posted by 70blackfish

did you get your truck going KXmoto???

looks good

Thanks. Good enough to keep moving forward with new inner rockers, outer rockers, outer floors and kick panels. Doesn't look like it in the photos above but the truck needed that stuff. I figured it was best to get all the sheetmetal exactly where it would sit for good and then start cutting and replacing. The front clip is off now and I think I've had the doors on and off about 20 times just double checking the fit of the rockers.
I've spent the last 3 weeks putting heat in my garage so otherwise I dont have any other updates other than my nose will no longer be running and I'll be able to feel my fingers while I work.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

Rubber body mounts should have a heavy wall sleeve in them of the right length to tighten the bolts up against when the rubber is compressed.

Jim

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

Anyone? So... I went to tighten the bolts tonight and I set the torque wrench to 20. The front ones tightened up right away. The rear ones just kept going... and going... and going... no click of the wrnech. I stopped because the rear cushion lower was really starting to distort. It just seemed to keep compressing beyond what seemed okay to me. Any opinion?

KXmotox247 can you post a full pic of your Avatar... I really like your truck...

[GMCPaul]

CORRECT TORQUE for Rubber Mounts
radiator mounts 33ft lbs
Front cab 70-90 ft lbs
Rear Cab 35-55 ft lbs
they give a range on front & rear cab mounts so that by adjusting torque within these ranges & the use of body shims you can get the body lines & gaps adjusted correctly.
The above information is out of the original factory service manual.
Paul Jr @ GMCPauls

[kxmotox247]

Thanks! I'm not sure if I know where that pic is even at. I'll attach one other shot and how it sits right now.

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

Thanks! I'm not sure if I know where that pic is even at. I'll attach one other shot and how it sits right now.

Are you riding on Air?... If not what drop are you running... Are you going back to the Light Blue and White?... man this is a sweet ride...

[kxmotox247]

Yep... air ride with 3" drop spindles. The blue in the pictures is either an extremely faded original light blue or a different blue... almost like a powder blue. My intent at this time is to go back to the original 67' light blue with a white roof.

Thanks for the compliment!

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

Yep... air ride with 3" drop spindles. The blue in the pictures is either an extremely faded original light blue or a different blue... almost like a powder blue. My intent at this time is to go back to the original 67' light blue with a white roof.

Thanks for the compliment!

Are you running Stock A-Arms or Tubular...

[kxmotox247]

Stock a-arms. just swapped in a 9" rear. Rear tires were 295/40/20 but changed to a 295/45/20 for a beefier look. It'll sit a little higher but by cutting the rear end, I'll get a better fit with the tires anyway.

[TaylorMutts]

I am bringing this thread back alive...I just replaced the 4 cab mounts on my 1972 C10 longbox. I am trying to confirm the torque specs for these mounts. The factory shop manual states:

Body Mounts All Except Rear #2 20 ft lbs
Rear #2 50 ft lbs

An earlier reply seems to suggest the opposite (front at 50, rear at 20). I installed polyurethane mounts, so not sure the factory specs still apply? I am hoping someone can shed some light on this. Thanks!