Laid off from work... now have time to start body work!

[chevymotocross]

Laid off from work recently, the weather is getting nicer around here, and I have some saved up money. Perfect opportunity to start the body work on my truck.

I have 2 great oem fenders to put on, doors to swap, a complete used bed to swap over, new cab corners and a rocker to put on. My goal origionally was to also lower the truck while the bed was off but since I have been laid off, I think I will have to pass on that for now and just focus on the body work.

Some questions before I start. My truck has the windshield antenna (not currently hooked up) but the fender has an aftermarket antenna. The used fender I bought also has an aftermarket antenna. I don't want an ugly antenna sticking out of the fender, so I am going to remove it, fill the hole, and use the windshield antenna. Where is the antenna wire hookup for this? Do they work well? All I see is the aftermarket antenna wire under my dash.

Also, should I use zerorust or just a DIY bedliner to undercoat the underneath of the bed and frame rails? I would think zero rust has less prep work since it will adhere to rust. I've had good luck with it before.

Any good tips for the replacement cab corners and rocker? The rocker panel I bought is fullsize and the cab corners are "supersize".

I will have the truck sprayed at maaco. Should I remove as many moldings as possible, chrome, bumpers, etc? The bed, fenders, and doors I am swapping are going to be primed, so I guess I mine as well DA the cab/hood so it is entirely prepped?

Also, the door I am swapping over does not have tint on the glass. I am not replacing my other door since it is fine but it does have dark cheap DIY tint. What is the best way to remove tint?

Any other recommendations greatly appreciated.

[silvereagle07]

If you're using a DIY bedliner , prep work is the key to a good job. You have to remove all debri and paint on the surface you are spraying.

The cab corners come "supersized", you just cut off what you don't need. Some trucks have more rust than others. Be sure to check the inner structure for rust before installing the outer corner.

Maaco painting IMO is not worth the hassle. You have to remove anything you don't want painted. I've had friends get truck painted there, not the best job IMO. Check local bodymen to spray quality paint if you're doing the bodywork.

You can remove tint with a simple razor scraper.

[old Rusty C10]

the windshield antenna is in the windshield and it comes through the center of the dashboard into the radio area to get hooked up.. they work fine i have one in mine and i got rid of the mast on the fender. sometimes if there is any kind of leak or someone was not using it they have clipped the wire coming from the windshield

[chevymotocross]

I will have to poke my head under the dash and look for it. I just recently had the windshield replaced and I remember the glass guy telling me he did the hookup at the windshield. I just need to find the other end and connect it to the stereo.

Another question. I was told after welding, not to use regular body filler, but fiberglass filler on those areas? I was originally going to use USC body filler for dents as well as repaired areas, like the rocker/cab corners. Should I only use fiberglass filler on these areas?

Also, I was also told after grinding down and feather-edging the area to be filled, before applying filler, to first apply glaze putty to help fill in any pinholes. Is this really necessary or can filler just be used after the area is prepped to bare metal?