03-22-2009, 12:28 PM | #1 |
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motor build
I got a question for you guys? I got a stock 350 with a 142 supercharger on it, I want to do a head and cam swap, would this head be good for the supercharger, http://store.summitracing.com/partde...S-30400013-CNC
and would you think that I would benefit from doing the bottom end while i'm at it? the motor's a 290hp gm crate with maybe 3000 miles on it I want to put 8psi on it I was thinking about buying this rotating assembly so that in the future I could throw more boost at it with a new blower http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=SCA-1-40005BI and as far as the cam goes i'm lost, if you guys could point me in the right direction I would be very happy
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03-22-2009, 01:12 PM | #2 |
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Re: motor build
As far as cam call them and tell them your info and they will suggest a cam for you. Trickflow are excellent heads so they should work fine and as far as the bottom end it should hold up but if you have the money why not replace stock with good forged parts.
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03-22-2009, 03:02 PM | #3 |
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Re: motor build
yeah that's what I thought, I don't know how much money it will cost to get that setup balanced and what all machine work will need to be done that's the determining factor right now. I want to get the motor done before I get home though.
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03-22-2009, 11:34 PM | #4 |
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Re: motor build
Would definitely go with a forged bottom end with around 8:1 compression if funds will allow. That way if you do throw more boost to it or upgrade to a larger blower, you know it will be up to the task.
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03-22-2009, 11:42 PM | #5 |
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Re: motor build
if i ever replace my vortecs i want something like this
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku If you can afford them (I can't) they are good heads as for the cam, if you want an idea of what kind of cam you are looking to buy before calling the cam companies try Comp Cams CamQest 6 (free download from Comp Cams website) it has practicaly all their cams and has a small dyno simulation built into it so you can compare one cam against another here is a link http://compcams.com/camquest/default.asp
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03-23-2009, 12:38 AM | #6 |
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Re: motor build
whats the stock rod length? would I need 5.7 inch rod to keep my compression down? I know the combustion chamber size plays a big role but what would the specs I need to not have to do any major machine work on my block? I want to keep everything stock but forged. I need an easy button right now...
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03-23-2009, 09:17 PM | #7 |
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Re: motor build
The trick flow heads are decent. Check the flow numbers before you commit. The AFR heads are definitely great. I sold those same trick flow heads for the AFR 210 heads I have now. It always come down to money.
Stock rod length is 5.7. Head chamber size, deck height and the piston all play a roll in the CR. Is your block a 4 bolt or 2 bolt? If its a 2 bolt I wouldn't put money into a forged assembly. Just run it until you have the cash for a better short block. These days you can buy a short block with a dart or motown block for just over $3k. Thats 415 ci, not a small 350. If it were me, I would spend the money on the better heads now then save for a good short block. I would be afraid to run 8 psi on the stock block. It has to be a good tune though. Buy a good AFR gauge (Innovate) and look at methonal injection kits.
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03-24-2009, 09:23 AM | #8 | |
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Re: motor build
Quote:
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03-26-2009, 09:41 AM | #9 |
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Re: motor build
thanks alot I will get the afr's and get a short block down the road, I also want to get a methanol injection kit from snow but i'm not sure on what one to get
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03-26-2009, 09:55 AM | #10 |
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Re: motor build
what about these? to much for what I'm doing? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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03-26-2009, 12:29 PM | #11 | |
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Re: motor build
Quote:
I'll check the difference on my desktop dyno when i get home and see if you loose alot of low end with the 210's compared to the 195's
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03-26-2009, 11:46 PM | #12 |
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Re: motor build
alright this is what I'm thinking,
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partde...N&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
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03-27-2009, 11:20 AM | #13 |
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Re: motor build
As a precautionary thought, you might want to stay away from any Crane products right now. They have had some hard times and it looks like they are out of business. Would be real hard to warranty if there was a problem. Buyer beware!
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03-27-2009, 12:16 PM | #14 |
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Re: motor build
I ran an almost identical setup using a crate 330hp/350. I had Twisted Wedge heads and used a Comp Nitrous Hp cam. I was running 7lbs. boost on it, and in my 78 swb it was very responsive. I have since moved on to a Procharger, but liked it for a daily driven street engine.
The cam was Comp 12-556-4 HYDRAULIC-High performance street with 100-150HP nitrous kit or small blower. Intake/Exhaust Lift: 462/480 Intake/Exhaust Adv. Duration @.050": 218/230 Lobe Separation angle of 113* RPM Range: 1600-5900 The heads were a 180cc 2.02"/1.60" 63cc Chambers 13* intake 23* exhaust valve angles Angle plug heads Trick Flow also recommended this Crane Cam #113941, but I found the Comp locally cheaper at the time. I did run mine with cast pistons for about a year, but I would not suggest it.. spend the money up front and eliminate the worries.
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03-28-2009, 12:29 AM | #15 |
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Re: motor build
How did your motor sound at idle? I was wanting a little rumpty rump, if I'm putting a cam in it I want my ears to be happy with the choppy idle.
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03-28-2009, 12:54 AM | #16 |
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Re: motor build
How did your motor sound at idle? I was wanting a little rumpty rump, if I'm putting a cam in it I want my ears to be happy with the choppy idle.
scratch a little rump... I want to have to shift it into neutrual at stop lights
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03-29-2009, 11:26 AM | #17 |
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Re: motor build
another question, does anyone sell 9" for our trucks or do you have to get a bare assembly and weld your own mounts on? I broke my 12 bolt last summer and I was wanting to replace the whole thing instead of beefing it up, if not what width do I need? I'm buying all these parts for when I come back from afganistan so I can work through the winter on it with as many as the big parts out of the way as I can.
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