two piece to one piece driveshaft - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

cagodinez · 03-31-2009, 03:05 PM

i had the front piece of my drive shaft shortened to much, i'm doing a 5.3/4l60e swap and the guy helping me tells me not to go with a one piece drive shaft, but there is alot of people that tell me its no problem, can you guys please help me on this one.

harrdawg54 · 03-31-2009, 03:32 PM

I have a LWB 4X4 and after a motor and tranny swap I ended up going with a one piece out of an '84 Chevy 1-ton that I had shortened. I was told there would be no problems because it is a 4" driveline.

prostreetC-10 · 03-31-2009, 04:18 PM

I had my 2 piece shortened and a TH400 yolk welded on. I have huge tires (18.5's) and monster torque. I have had zero problems and would not run anything else!

LOW DOUGH · 03-31-2009, 04:25 PM

I would go one piece all the way. The carrier bearing on mine has gone out a few times. So, next time I break my drive shaft I will go one piece.

LOW DOUGH · 03-31-2009, 04:30 PM

So, did short beds have a two piece driveshaft?

Longhorn Man · 03-31-2009, 05:01 PM

some SWB had 2, some had 1 shaft.
If you are killing carrier bearings, then you need another source for parts. They should last 30 years or so. I don't care how much power your truck makes, how much traction, none of this does anything to a carrier bearing.
If the guy building your driveshaft says it isn't a good idea, then get a second opinion. If the next guy says no, then keep asking around till you find a drive shaft shop that'll do it and stand behind it. Expect a high price for a properly built one, and the price goes up considerably for every inch over 60 inches long.
The 2 piece is a better product, and that is one of the reasons they have been used since the dawn of time (practicly) and still used today in some aplications.

LOW DOUGH · 03-31-2009, 05:33 PM

Yeah Andy, it wasn't a power thing. It was an untrue drive shaft. I have sence gotten the shafts rebuilt and have not had that problem.

Texasbigblock · 03-31-2009, 06:57 PM

i had a one piece shaft out of a 92 shortened for 20 bucks. I believe the problem with a two piece shaft is more room for wear out. we had problems with the two piece set up behind high horsepower/torque engines. i believe it was just do to the two piece shafts having such a small diameter. the less joints you have the less chance you have of anything wearing out or breaking. just my .02.

70Custom10Nut · 03-31-2009, 09:01 PM

I have to go with staying with the two-piece. I replaced my carrier bearing about ten years ago, and in had a squeak that would not go away (I think it was the rubber boot). Anyway after 5 years of storage, the squeak is gone. Go figure. There's a reason the designers/engineers used a two piece setup with that frame(it works). there's some things you can't deny

Texasbigblock · 03-31-2009, 09:52 PM

^agreed. If the truck is pretty much stock, no extreme hp engine or massive tires, the two piece works great. Just saying that if you were considering a one piece, there is nothing wrong with converting.

prostreetC-10 · 03-31-2009, 10:13 PM

.....and I didn't clarify that mine is a short bed. I thought that is what we was talking about. If you are talking long bed, my 460 was in a 68 GMC 3/4 with a two piece. I ran the crap out of that truck and the torque was way up there (for the street). That's a long one piece if you are working on a long bed. I's stay with the two piece unless we are working on a SW.

To answer your other question. My 4 speed truck had a long tube with a slip yoke in the front. Since I was going front the granny 4 speed to a longer M-22, there was enough length left to cut and make the one piece you see above. It's next to a stock 69 Camaro driveline to show its beefy size. I love it!!!

BigDaddyDave · 03-31-2009, 10:18 PM

I went from a two piece to a one piece, and here is the truth. If your two piece is in good shape, balanced etc, you will never have a problem. I found out that mine was to long and that was causing my problem.

Texasbigblock · 03-31-2009, 10:20 PM

...sorry, i was assuming short bed as well. LB, i would probably stick with a 2 piece.

cagodinez · 04-01-2009, 01:15 AM

forgot to mention that, it is a 70 short bed,thank you everyone for your help, i found this driveshaft," EACH SHAFT INCLUDES:
NEW 27 SPLINE YOKE (#699-769) &
NEW 1310 SERIES (1 1/16" X 3 7/32") U-JOINTS
WE HAVE SEVERAL OTHER YOKES TO FIT NUMEROUS TRANSMISSIONS, AS WELL AS A NUMBER OF CONVERSION U-JOINTS TO CONVERT THESE 1310 SHAFTS TO OTHER SERIES" will this yoke work with my 4l60e? will this u joint work with my rear end? again thankyou everyone for your help.
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_menu&cat=Drivetrain&sub=Driveshafts&ssub=!!2%201/2\"%20Steel%20Driveshafts

cagodinez · 04-01-2009, 02:55 PM

BRAND NEW 2 1/2" STEEL DRIVESHAFTS
SHAFTS ARE 2 1/2" IN DIAMETER
LENGTH IS MEASURED CENTER OF U-JOINT TO CENTER OF U-JOINT
LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL CONSTRUCTION
PAINTED WHITE
PRECISION BALANCED
EACH SHAFT INCLUDES:
NEW 27 SPLINE YOKE (#699-769) &
NEW 1310 SERIES (1 1/16" X 3 7/32") U-JOINTS
WE HAVE SEVERAL OTHER YOKES TO FIT NUMEROUS TRANSMISSIONS, AS WELL AS A NUMBER OF CONVERSION U-JOINTS TO CONVERT THESE 1310 SHAFTS TO OTHER SERIES

I decided going with a one piece drive shaft, I know the 27 spline yoke will work but, I don't if the 1310 series ujoints work with these trucks, can someone please help me out here, my truck is a 2wd 70 short bed.

brad_man_72 · 04-01-2009, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cagodinez

BRAND NEW 2 1/2" STEEL DRIVESHAFTS
SHAFTS ARE 2 1/2" IN DIAMETER
LENGTH IS MEASURED CENTER OF U-JOINT TO CENTER OF U-JOINT
LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL CONSTRUCTION
PAINTED WHITE
PRECISION BALANCED
EACH SHAFT INCLUDES:
NEW 27 SPLINE YOKE (#699-769) &
NEW 1310 SERIES (1 1/16" X 3 7/32") U-JOINTS
WE HAVE SEVERAL OTHER YOKES TO FIT NUMEROUS TRANSMISSIONS, AS WELL AS A NUMBER OF CONVERSION U-JOINTS TO CONVERT THESE 1310 SHAFTS TO OTHER SERIES

I decided going with a one piece drive shaft, I know the 27 spline yoke will work but, I don't if the 1310 series ujoints work with these trucks, can someone please help me out here, my truck is a 2wd 70 short bed.

your rear SHOULD be 1310

Ford Assassin · 05-13-2009, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cagodinez

BRAND NEW 2 1/2" STEEL DRIVESHAFTS
SHAFTS ARE 2 1/2" IN DIAMETER
LENGTH IS MEASURED CENTER OF U-JOINT TO CENTER OF U-JOINT
LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL CONSTRUCTION
PAINTED WHITE
PRECISION BALANCED
EACH SHAFT INCLUDES:
NEW 27 SPLINE YOKE (#699-769) &
NEW 1310 SERIES (1 1/16" X 3 7/32") U-JOINTS
WE HAVE SEVERAL OTHER YOKES TO FIT NUMEROUS TRANSMISSIONS, AS WELL AS A NUMBER OF CONVERSION U-JOINTS TO CONVERT THESE 1310 SHAFTS TO OTHER SERIES

I decided going with a one piece drive shaft, I know the 27 spline yoke will work but, I don't if the 1310 series ujoints work with these trucks, can someone please help me out here, my truck is a 2wd 70 short bed.

What is your 1-piece length driveshaft measurements, center u-joint to center u-joint? I ask because I need a new driveshaft for my '69 swb with the 5.3/4L60e swap.

Thanks!!

Longhorn Man · 05-13-2009, 06:00 AM

I wouldn't trust anyone else's measurements in your situation. You both have a custom set up... but they may not be 100% exact same.
You are better off measuring it yourself

**breeh** · 05-13-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I wouldn't trust anyone else's measurements in your situation. You both have a custom set up... but they may not be 100% exact same.
You are better off measuring it yourself

Great advice

Longhorn Man · 05-13-2009, 08:04 PM

thank you.
I could type out a novel on why you should do this or that on a drive shaft... but it always falls on deaf ears. Most people in the hobby know what they want and can't be convinced otherwise. just like a lot of mechanics swear up and down that there way is correct... even when it isn't.

**breeh** · 05-13-2009, 08:30 PM

I've enjoyed several of your driveshaft novels over the years.

Longhorn Man · 05-13-2009, 08:56 PM

LOL! Thanks.

That actually made me laugh.

03-31-2009, 03:05 PM	#1
cagodinez Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 241	two piece to one piece driveshaft i had the front piece of my drive shaft shortened to much, i'm doing a 5.3/4l60e swap and the guy helping me tells me not to go with a one piece drive shaft, but there is alot of people that tell me its no problem, can you guys please help me on this one.

03-31-2009, 03:32 PM	#2
harrdawg54 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Sandpoint, Idaho Posts: 178	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft I have a LWB 4X4 and after a motor and tranny swap I ended up going with a one piece out of an '84 Chevy 1-ton that I had shortened. I was told there would be no problems because it is a 4" driveline. __________________ 1969 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 350, 4sp, 33's High on plans, Low on funds

03-31-2009, 04:18 PM	#3
prostreetC-10 My Carbon Footprint Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Orygun Posts: 5,527	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft I had my 2 piece shortened and a TH400 yolk welded on. I have huge tires (18.5's) and monster torque. I have had zero problems and would not run anything else! __________________ A quick "pedalfest" *Still getting loose (carb test)* 496 Initial fire up video!

03-31-2009, 04:25 PM	#4
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft I would go one piece all the way. The carrier bearing on mine has gone out a few times. So, next time I break my drive shaft I will go one piece.

03-31-2009, 04:30 PM	#5
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft So, did short beds have a two piece driveshaft?

03-31-2009, 05:01 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft some SWB had 2, some had 1 shaft. If you are killing carrier bearings, then you need another source for parts. They should last 30 years or so. I don't care how much power your truck makes, how much traction, none of this does anything to a carrier bearing. If the guy building your driveshaft says it isn't a good idea, then get a second opinion. If the next guy says no, then keep asking around till you find a drive shaft shop that'll do it and stand behind it. Expect a high price for a properly built one, and the price goes up considerably for every inch over 60 inches long. The 2 piece is a better product, and that is one of the reasons they have been used since the dawn of time (practicly) and still used today in some aplications. Last edited by Longhorn Man; 03-31-2009 at 05:02 PM.

03-31-2009, 05:33 PM	#7
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft Yeah Andy, it wasn't a power thing. It was an untrue drive shaft. I have sence gotten the shafts rebuilt and have not had that problem.

03-31-2009, 06:57 PM	#8
Texasbigblock Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 252	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft i had a one piece shaft out of a 92 shortened for 20 bucks. I believe the problem with a two piece shaft is more room for wear out. we had problems with the two piece set up behind high horsepower/torque engines. i believe it was just do to the two piece shafts having such a small diameter. the less joints you have the less chance you have of anything wearing out or breaking. just my .02. __________________ -Scott- 1970 C10 shortbed 396 1969 C30 dually flatbed "Vidalia"

03-31-2009, 09:01 PM	#9
70Custom10Nut Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Vilseck Germany (currently) Posts: 317	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft I have to go with staying with the two-piece. I replaced my carrier bearing about ten years ago, and in had a squeak that would not go away (I think it was the rubber boot). Anyway after 5 years of storage, the squeak is gone. Go figure. There's a reason the designers/engineers used a two piece setup with that frame(it works). there's some things you can't deny

03-31-2009, 09:52 PM	#10
Texasbigblock Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 252	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft ^agreed. If the truck is pretty much stock, no extreme hp engine or massive tires, the two piece works great. Just saying that if you were considering a one piece, there is nothing wrong with converting. __________________ -Scott- 1970 C10 shortbed 396 1969 C30 dually flatbed "Vidalia"

03-31-2009, 10:13 PM	#11
prostreetC-10 My Carbon Footprint Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Orygun Posts: 5,527	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft .....and I didn't clarify that mine is a short bed. I thought that is what we was talking about. If you are talking long bed, my 460 was in a 68 GMC 3/4 with a two piece. I ran the crap out of that truck and the torque was way up there (for the street). That's a long one piece if you are working on a long bed. I's stay with the two piece unless we are working on a SW. To answer your other question. My 4 speed truck had a long tube with a slip yoke in the front. Since I was going front the granny 4 speed to a longer M-22, there was enough length left to cut and make the one piece you see above. It's next to a stock 69 Camaro driveline to show its beefy size. I love it!!! __________________ A quick "pedalfest" *Still getting loose (carb test)* 496 Initial fire up video! Last edited by prostreetC-10; 03-31-2009 at 10:16 PM.

03-31-2009, 10:18 PM	#12
BigDaddyDave RIP BigDaddyDave ~7-23-09~ You will be missed~ Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Concord NC Posts: 1,361	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft I went from a two piece to a one piece, and here is the truth. If your two piece is in good shape, balanced etc, you will never have a problem. I found out that mine was to long and that was causing my problem. __________________ BigDaddyDave's Truck: http://www.flickr.com/photos/daves71chevy/ \| See it in Action!

03-31-2009, 10:20 PM	#13
Texasbigblock Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 252	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft ...sorry, i was assuming short bed as well. LB, i would probably stick with a 2 piece. __________________ -Scott- 1970 C10 shortbed 396 1969 C30 dually flatbed "Vidalia"

04-01-2009, 01:15 AM	#14
cagodinez Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 241	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft forgot to mention that, it is a 70 short bed,thank you everyone for your help, i found this driveshaft," EACH SHAFT INCLUDES: NEW 27 SPLINE YOKE (#699-769) & NEW 1310 SERIES (1 1/16" X 3 7/32") U-JOINTS WE HAVE SEVERAL OTHER YOKES TO FIT NUMEROUS TRANSMISSIONS, AS WELL AS A NUMBER OF CONVERSION U-JOINTS TO CONVERT THESE 1310 SHAFTS TO OTHER SERIES" will this yoke work with my 4l60e? will this u joint work with my rear end? again thankyou everyone for your help. http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_menu&cat=Drivetrain&sub=Driveshafts&ssub=!!2%201/2\"%20Steel%20Driveshafts

04-01-2009, 02:55 PM	#15
cagodinez Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 241	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft BRAND NEW 2 1/2" STEEL DRIVESHAFTS SHAFTS ARE 2 1/2" IN DIAMETER LENGTH IS MEASURED CENTER OF U-JOINT TO CENTER OF U-JOINT LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL CONSTRUCTION PAINTED WHITE PRECISION BALANCED EACH SHAFT INCLUDES: NEW 27 SPLINE YOKE (#699-769) & NEW 1310 SERIES (1 1/16" X 3 7/32") U-JOINTS WE HAVE SEVERAL OTHER YOKES TO FIT NUMEROUS TRANSMISSIONS, AS WELL AS A NUMBER OF CONVERSION U-JOINTS TO CONVERT THESE 1310 SHAFTS TO OTHER SERIES I decided going with a one piece drive shaft, I know the 27 spline yoke will work but, I don't if the 1310 series ujoints work with these trucks, can someone please help me out here, my truck is a 2wd 70 short bed.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

05-13-2009, 06:00 AM	#18
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft I wouldn't trust anyone else's measurements in your situation. You both have a custom set up... but they may not be 100% exact same. You are better off measuring it yourself

05-13-2009, 08:04 PM	#20
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft thank you. I could type out a novel on why you should do this or that on a drive shaft... but it always falls on deaf ears. Most people in the hobby know what they want and can't be convinced otherwise. just like a lot of mechanics swear up and down that there way is correct... even when it isn't. Last edited by Longhorn Man; 05-13-2009 at 08:06 PM.

05-13-2009, 08:30 PM	#21
breeh Recovering 67-72 Addict Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: North Bend, WA Posts: 1,788	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft I've enjoyed several of your driveshaft novels over the years. __________________ 68 Short Fleet 4x4; 427; BTO Level 3 700R4; NP205; Dana 60 front and rear; 4" lift with 35's; Disc brakes; AGR variable ratio steering; factory bucket seats; factory tach and tilt. "Friends call me cruzer cuz I like fast cars and fast women"

05-13-2009, 08:56 PM	#22
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: two piece to one piece driveshaft LOL! Thanks. That actually made me laugh.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.